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2008 F350 PTT fluid reservoir cap punctured

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  • 2008 F350 PTT fluid reservoir cap punctured

    Was inspecting the tilt and trim area last week and noticed the fluid reservoir cap had a puncture at the top, needless to say water got in because i’m not sure when it happened.. The tilt trim still worked but was a bit sluggish. What i believe caused the puncture is the manual tilt lever somehow landed on top of it when trimming down, in other words it didn’t retract up. I noticed the manual lever is harder to move now, possibly bent or bent pin? Not sure, it does move but just harder now like its binding on something. How did that happen? the only thing i can think of is I accidentally trailered the boat on the manual tilt levers, cant think of anything else. I know thats not reccomended because those levers are not designed to carry that much weight, hard to believe though they are 1/4 inch steel. i have no other explanation. So now i have a punctured reservoir that needs replaced, i did order one about $100. Now the dreaded job of trying to get that 4th bolt in the back against the transom that holds the cap without moving the engine bracket (boat is on my lift at least its out of the water). Now I realize i am going to have to get this teared down and rebuilt ( winter project). but trying to do what i need to make it through the summer.

    I am going to have to get the manual levers looked at and repaired also, winter project. Has this happened to anyone? Is it ok to run the trim with semi contaminated fluid,i amsure i cant get all the fluid out without tearing down the PTT unit. Big job ahead. Btw thinking of using www.trimandtilt.com in FL. Any help much appreciated

  • #2
    9AD3AC4B-AA48-45E6-8EE9-0386E41732FA.jpeg99D5E779-18BC-4692-835F-87C6E0CD73B9.jpeg

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    • #3
      View the attached video. He pulls the caps off of the trim rams and vacuums a good bit of the fluid out. If you can get the caps off, I would think this is a good start and may get you through the summer. Of course, after replacing the tank.

      https://marinetechtools.com/diy-trai...rim-seals.html
      Last edited by pstephens46; 07-21-2019, 01:55 PM.

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      • #4
        Thx big job what that video having to remove the ram caps just tp get the fluid out, i am thinking trying to siphon the fluid out where you normally add the fluid The threaded fill hole where the fill cap goes If i snake a tube in and using a large syringe, or better a small oil extraction pump, it would suction it all out No? Or am I missing something.
        Last edited by Jbruzzese; 07-21-2019, 02:10 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Jbruzzese View Post
          Thx big job what that video having to remove the ram caps just tp get the fluid out, i am thinking trying to siphon the fluid out where you normally add the fluid The threaded fill hole where the fill cap goes If i snake a tube in and using a large syringe, or better a small oil extraction pump, it would suction it all out No? Or am I missing something.
          Yes you are.

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          • #6
            I am not a mechanic... now that you confirmed i’m “missing something” and without getting into a deep discussion of how a hydraulic system works, I’m going to guess there is fluid held/trapped in the ram cylinders and no way to get it out without removing rams. Is that correct?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jbruzzese View Post
              I am not a mechanic... now that you confirmed i’m “missing something” and without getting into a deep discussion of how a hydraulic system works, I’m going to guess there is fluid held/trapped in the ram cylinders and no way to get it out without removing rams. Is that correct?
              Yes, your correct.

              The unit really needs to be torn down as fluid is everywhere in the unit.

              Looking at your pic's, the trim seals don't appear to be in good condition either, (that or debris is atop them).

              And as you noted, the mechanical arm /parts to it/ sound as if their bent as well with the binding...
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #8
                The good news is that he has a trailer. There was one op that wanted to repair/remove the TT on a lift awhile back.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jbruzzese View Post
                  I am not a mechanic... now that you confirmed i’m “missing something” and without getting into a deep discussion of how a hydraulic system works, I’m going to guess there is fluid held/trapped in the ram cylinders and no way to get it out without removing rams. Is that correct?
                  PTT service providers are few I learned, when I experienced PTT issues. Why? Even your hardened certified marine mechanic doesn't want to deal with these units. Most mechanics don't have the sterile-like work area needed for reassembly, amoung other reasons. Depending on the area you reside, you'll most likely need to remove the unit and ship to a service provider. I found one local to me in Tampa Bay area so I didn't need to ship. Rebuild cost was $500.
                  Jason
                  1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                  • #10
                    not sure if they put a new Yamaha T&T motor on that for $500 total, do you know if it was aftermarket?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                      not sure if they put a new Yamaha T&T motor on that for $500 total, do you know if it was aftermarket?
                      Yes...Aftermarket
                      Jason
                      1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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                      • #12
                        Yes i do have a trailer and boat is on my lift most of the time so its safe for now. Has anyone dealt w http://www.trimandtilt.com/ seems they are experts, if i could only convince myself try to take the existing unit off then ship it to them. Seems pretty intense job just to remove the unit, not sure i want yo get into this.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jbruzzese View Post
                          Yes i do have a trailer and boat is on my lift most of the time so its safe for now. Has anyone dealt w http://www.trimandtilt.com/ seems they are experts, if i could only convince myself try to take the existing unit off then ship it to them. Seems pretty intense job just to remove the unit, not sure i want yo get into this.
                          Quite a heavy motor. If the support rods are questionable, not sure I would work under it either.
                          Never worked on an F350. Hard headed as I am, I might try to rig some safety straps around motor before I started banging out the pins. If you aren’t confident, get help. 800 lbs of motor might sting a little.

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                          • #14
                            Looking at the parts list, the bent support lever is separate and of course attached to the transom bracket.

                            IDK how difficult that is to replace, but I would replace that first, then the engine is supported (W/O issue).

                            The T&T unit, like most, appear it's just the lower and upper "pins" holding it in and the electric plug (maybe a ground too-forgot).
                            Shouldn't be too hard to remove (once the engine is safely supported)
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                            • #15
                              Uptade... I was able to fix the manual tilt support yesterday, the one on the port side that was binding. It was actually slightly bent and rubbing against the cowling. I took a large screwdriver and bent it back was only about 1/8th of an inch off, now it operates smoothly. That tells me the pins and rod that connects to the starboard side manual hold lever are good,happy about that. Next on the list is try to replace the fluid reservoir cap if i can get to that dreaded 4th bolt against the transom. Meanwhile i temporarily put a rubber cap over it to keep any new water from getting in and buy me some time. I Found it at home depot plumbing, it actually fits perfectly over it, a little bit of ingenuity seems to do the job for now.
                              that one ram looks bent, is not its the iphone photo distorted.

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