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2001 200 HPDI precision oil blend

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  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by mist1188 View Post
    Oh, there's no problem hearing it. LOL After a mile or 2 of reduced power, turning it down would be nice. LOL
    But while we're on the subject of alarms, I was very close to blowing my motor because of water in the oil. This was in the remote tank. And as far as I know there is no alarm for that. The small tank on the engine does have a trap for it but the remote tank?
    Think I'll be re-rigging this tank in a drier spot. ))
    Maybe drain and clean the tanks every so often too.

    It is not wise to keep running a motor in the RPM reduction mode,
    It still runs so you can get out of harms way, but shut it down as soon as you can and fix the problem or at least let it cool off if it was over heat that brought it in

    Leave a comment:


  • boscoe99
    replied
    My Merc 175 EFI was so prone to false alarms that I too thought of cutting the purple wire. I actually hoped it would fail so I would have had an excuse to buy a Yam. It never failed but it was false alarm after false alarm.

    Oh, but it was loud. And thirsty.

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    Oh, there's no problem hearing it. LOL After a mile or 2 of reduced power, turning it down would be nice. LOL
    But while we're on the subject of alarms, I was very close to blowing my motor because of water in the oil. This was in the remote tank. And as far as I know there is no alarm for that. The small tank on the engine does have a trap for it but the remote tank?
    Think I'll be re-rigging this tank in a drier spot. ))

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    simply cut the pink wire.
    purple on the merc.
    a cousin of mine used to get false alarms on his 200 merc.
    he cut the purple wire.
    one day the alarm was for real, smoked the powerhead.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by mist1188 View Post
    Now, if Yamaha would just put a volume control on that alarm of theirs... ))
    Thanks, I'll be back I'm sure.
    What,
    is it not loud enough for you to hear?
    Or is it going off so much you get tired of listening to it and want to turn it down?

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    There were many things telling the pump not to run. LOL Only the manual switch would work until... that broke. LOL The last part of the system is the pump itself which looks terrible but still works. Luckily, not a hard fix.
    The new gauges are in so we can now read what's going on, the fuel tank has been flushed and cleaned... I can't tell you the problems ethanol can cause... you already know, I'm sure...
    Now, if Yamaha would just put a volume control on that alarm of theirs... ))
    Thanks, I'll be back I'm sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • boscoe99
    replied
    Originally posted by mist1188 View Post
    Perhaps I misstated... The wire harness between the motor and the external reservoir which does connect to the sensor on the tank mounted on the engine. Those wires...
    Nope. You were crystal clear.

    The remote tank is located is some/most cases in a nasty environment. Tank holders corrode away into nothing. Yamaha uses non-tinned wires and in a dark, warm and humid environment they are subject to becoming damaged. On a 14 year old motor that is used in the briney blue, it is almost a near certainty.

    Any of the four wires in the oil harness becoming compromised can cause the oil pump to not run. No power to the pump on the yellow wire, the pump won't run. No ground to the pump on the blue wire, the pump won't run. No ground to the sensor on the black wire, the ECU/CDI won't tell the pump to run. No ground to the ECU/CDI on the black/red wire, the ECU/CDI won't tell the pump to run.

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    while it may be possible, do you realize its the same two wires,one brown one blue, that operate the pump in either automatic or manual mode.

    lose the black or the black red and you get a yellow lamp or center bar flashing and NO automatic transfer but manual will still work.

    there is a splice in the engine harness where the black/red changes to green/black and green or green white. if that splice fails the tach can see the SWB closed signal yet the ECU sees it as open and inhibits automatic transfer.

    easy to see on the laptop.

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    Perhaps I misstated... The wire harness between the motor and the external reservoir which does connect to the sensor on the tank mounted on the engine. Those wires...

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    find a better pro.
    there are NO wires between the tanks.
    or keep chunking parts till something works.

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    Here's what was found with the help of a pro...
    The wire between the engine and the reserve tank was so badly degraded, the ONLY contact that was working was the one for the manual switch on the motor. Both the sensor in the tank and the reserve tank then needed to be replaced. All 3 parts were swapped out with working parts to accomplish this. Yes, I know that's cheating because most don't have these parts but... we did. Back in action. Thanks for your help.
    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    first is to have fully charged operational batteries.
    then test it.

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    Finally back from the Bahamas, I've had a chance to run the check you recommended. I hope you're still listening. LOL
    While my batteries are not in top shape after my long absence, they did show a low voltage reading with the alarm sounding and a normal reading with the manual switch engaged. About 4v with the alarm and around 9.5v with the manual switch. I've put the charger on in case you need a better reading but it seems like the test did show something as is.
    Please let me know what you think.
    BTW, not exactly sure where the ground is you want me to check. Just saying...
    Thanks.
    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • mist1188
    replied
    I'll get to it as quickly as I can. Thanks for such a prompt reply from both.
    Sorry about the model number, I've been looking at threads from all different models...
    Mine is a 2001 Z200TXRZ. I have a tester and have been looking for gauges. That barely readable keeps me going... LOL
    Thanks again, I'll be back with you.

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    fairly simple.
    with the alarm sounding simply back probe the oil tank connector blue and brown leads at the oil pump bullet connectors.
    you should read about 11V.
    pump will drop a volt or two.
    if you don't get it, hit the manual switch.
    if you still have less than 11v or so, check the pump,check brown to engine ground with the pump trying to run.
    this will tell you quickly if its a 12v supply, pump or pump ground path issue.
    its a stupidly simple system but several things have to happen at the same time.

    Leave a comment:

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