I have this one as shown in the picture below. RPM works just fine. It is the warning lights for oil and temperature that are completely dead. No light either before start, or if I jump the temperatur switch or put the oil cable to ground. -and buzzer doesn't work... Engine, remote control and instruments were all on the same boat. I dismantled it but forgot to check that everything worked before I bought it.
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Yamaha 2001, CDI and warning light / sound
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What brought this up?Originally posted by rejesterd View PostMarius - I wanted to ask.. did you have a different motor on this boat before? If so, what model was it? I ask because you might just need to switch the pole setting to 12 on the back of your tachometer gauge.
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We know there is a 703 control - saw a photo of it.Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostOr am I wrong about this buzzer having 12 V+ directly from the key switch?
(AFAIK we still don't know exactly what gauge,
whose warning lamps are expected to illuminate at key on)
So this is the wiring of the 703 below
Ignition on provides power to the buzzer,
the "CDI unit" provides a ground to sound the buzzer.
back-probing the buzzer wire at the CDI connector to ground it,
would have been my first step...

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have you made sure you have 12 V+ at the buzzer when you turn the key to the on position?
If you have 12 V+ there then ground the other wire leaving the buzzer to see that is sounds.
move to the other end of the 10 wire harness and ground the wire there to see if the buzzer sounds.
trace the wire all the way to the devices that will set off the buzzer to see where it does not work.
Or am I wrong about this buzzer having 12 V+ directly from the key switch?
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I have now tested all the wires in the multi-cable from the remote control and up to the connector inside the engine compartment. All the wires are intact and pink coming out of the buzzer goes into the multi-cable as it should ... I think now that it is either the brain of the engine that is the problem or that the switch in the remote control is defective.
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Maybe frantic. A competition perhaps. I’m off to purchase an F50 manual. Apparently insightful for all models, including the infamous HPDI.Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostDoes this place seem more clustered than normal lately?
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I am trying to understand where you see that remote key /kill switchOriginally posted by boscoe99 View PostFirst time I have ever seen a 703 control box being used with a remote key switch/kill switch panel. Learning something new every day.
I thought the pic posted was of the 703Last edited by 99yam40; 05-08-2019, 07:01 PM.
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Also, I would definitely try that test you did before when you bypassed the thermoswitch. You just have to make sure to run the engine for at least 75 seconds. Then the buzzer should sound if the wiring is all correct and intact, and you don't have to worry about the indicator lights.
If all you did was hook up the 10-pin harness to the engine and those 4 wires to the tachometer harness, then all the wiring should be correct going to the engine. But the connections going back to the tach are different, depending on which tach you have. Maybe take a picture of your gauges. Then compare that to the ones shown here:
https://online.flowpaper.com/7c250766/2019MRP/#page=1
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First time I have ever seen a 703 control box being used with a remote key switch/kill switch panel. Learning something new every day.
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