Yamaha 2001, CDI and warning light / sound

[boscoe99]

I would disagree.
my bet is the OP has no clue how the system works.
some of the older stuff the oil alarm would never work until the engine speed exceeded 2000 RPM at least once in that key cycle.
but it is easy.
short the oil switch lead to ground,fire it up and run the rpm above 2000.
then short the pink thermoswitch lead and let it run at least 75 seconds.

Can't hurt. Good idea. One will have a pretty darn good idea at that point in time.

[rejesterd]

I would disagree.
some of the older stuff the oil alarm would never work until the engine speed exceeded 2000 RPM at least once in that key cycle.
but it is easy.
short the oil switch lead to ground,fire it up and run the rpm above 2000.
then short the pink thermoswitch lead and let it run at least 75 seconds.

Yep.. but what if the buzzer doesn't sound when you pull the safety lanyard and try to start it? That's another issue he found.

[rodbolt17]

I would disagree.
my bet is the OP has no clue how the system works.
some of the older stuff the oil alarm would never work until the engine speed exceeded 2000 RPM at least once in that key cycle.
but it is easy.
short the oil switch lead to ground,fire it up and run the rpm above 2000.
then short the pink thermoswitch lead and let it run at least 75 seconds.

[boscoe99]

Post #35 has a picture of the data plate.

So it does. My records indicate the motor to be a 2002 model year motor.

If the OP;

1. Has determined that the wires to the lights illuminate the lights when those wires are grounded at the CDI

2. Has determined that the pink wire from the CDI causes the buzzer to sound when the pink wire is grounded at the CDI

3. Has determined that the thermoswitch lead and oil pressure switch lead to the CDI are functioning correctly

3. Shorts the oil pressure switch lead to ground and shorts the thermoswitch lead to ground, runs the motor for several minutes at idle, and does not hear the buzzer sound or see the warning lamps illuminate

then I would have to suspect that the CDI is defective.

Would you agree or disagree?

[Ole marius Petterson]

No problem...good luck with your engine.

Yea.. .. Looks like I need it..

[panasonic]

Mr. panaconic, Thank you very much😊, but it's actually exactly the manual I already have in PDF ☺

No problem...good luck with your engine.

[Ole marius Petterson]

Mrs. Ole Marius Petterson

I have your engine service manual (PDF) if you would like to have it, send me a private message (PM) and I will email it to you.

Mr Boscoe can you confirm the manual # is 62Y-28197-3A-11? That is the number printed on the cover, there is no "LIT" # I could see.

Manual was printed in the Netherlands, if that makes any difference.

Mr. panaconic, Thank you very much😊, but it's actually exactly the manual I already have in PDF ☺

[panasonic]

Post #35 has a picture of the data plate.

[boscoe99]

Gonna need the OP to give me the complete engine ID.

[panasonic]

Mrs. Ole Marius Petterson

I have your engine service manual (PDF) if you would like to have it, send me a private message (PM) and I will email it to you.

Mr Boscoe can you confirm the manual # is 62Y-28197-3A-11? That is the number printed on the cover, there is no "LIT" # I could see.

Manual was printed in the Netherlands, if that makes any difference.

[boscoe99]

Yeah, I asked around (both on another forum and my friend who is a tech up at one of the marinas near Winnipesaukee), and they said it is the CDI that flips the lights on and off at key-on. Very strange that the CDI only seems to fail in this way, because it runs fine otherwise.

It is well known that it is the CDI or ECU/ECM that applies the ground to illuminate the light or icon on a Yamaha tachometer.

Did he say that all Yamaha models will illuminate the tachometer lights at either key on or at engine start up? From say a 25 HP two stroke to the XF425 models?

Just like not all Yams will activate the warning horn if the motor is cranked with the kill switch removed, I don't know what all Yam models will do with respect to the lights or icons when the key is turned on.

[rejesterd]

Yeah, I asked around (both on another forum and my friend who is a tech up at one of the marinas near Winnipesaukee), and they said it is the CDI that flips the lights on and off at key-on. Very strange that the CDI only seems to fail in this way, because it runs fine otherwise.

[boscoe99]

-------------------------

[Ole marius Petterson]

The lights in the instrument panel get + 12v from the remote control. When I disconnect the multi-connector (inside the engine) with the two green wires that go directly to the lamps, put ground / minus on the wires, then they both light up. So there is nothing wrong with remote control or gauge/bulps. I see no damage or something on the wiring harness in the engine, so think that it is the brain of the engine that does not work properly. The engine itself runs fine...

[fairdeal]

No light either before start, ... or put the oil cable to ground.

The buzzer not sounding when cranking with the lanyard pulled is a puzzler -

but this, above, with the lights is a different issue.

(not only because the wiring for each is completely separate)

The gauge lights are very simple.

with key switch on energizes the yellow harness wire - supplies 12V + to the gauge and its indicator lamps.

When the 'signal' wire - either oil or temp - is grounded, that lamp lights.

That's all the CDI does - provide a ground.

With key on, if you apply ground directly to the signal lead, at the gauge, the lamp should light.

If it doesn't - either the gauge isn't actually getting power
or there is an internal problem with the gauge.
Those are the only possibilities.

(I don't think the 'bulbs' can 'burn out', but....)