Throttle levers not even

[eddy2419]

The SB throttle lever at the control has to be pushed forward more than P to get the same RPM's. The SB does not start raising PRM's right past the detent like the P. At WOT the P is at 5800 RPM's and SB is 5400 RPM's. Not covered in the service manual, at least I could not find it.

Is there an adjustment I can make in the control that will not affect any adjustments at the engine?

704 control.

[eddy2419]

I did a throttle sync, cable adjustment and TPS adjustment last week and tested the boat at the lake. It runs perfectly. The SB throttle does not advance RPM's until well past the point the P does. At WOT the SB hits the console and stops. P does not hit the console at WOT.

The engines at idle show the same RPM's. Both engines run perfectly. I think I just need to take "slack" out at the throttle. I am pretty sure it can't be done on the engine end. Before I go "messing" with it I wanted to get some advice since everything else is good.

Edit: 2003 250 HPDI's. Regular dual controls, not the racing type ones.

[99yam40]

may have to replace the cable, no taking up slack in it anywhere that I has seen.
But Rod or Boscoe may have more input for you

[eddy2419]

may have to replace the cable, no taking up slack in it anywhere that I has seen.
But Rod or Boscoe may have more input for you

Thanks for the reply. They were replaced by a Yamaha shop a couple of years ago so hopefully that is not the issue. I believe they became out of sync then but not sure. I can live with it but if there is an easy fix I will do it.

[eddy2419]

Thanks for the reply. The difference was there well before I touched it and is the same after I adjusted the cable at the engine between the throttle sync and TPS adjustment. I am not sure if the difference was there before the shop replaced the cables 2 years ago though.

The engine was cutting out in idle hence the work I did. I also did it to the other engine and both run better than they ever have. 50.5 MPH at WOT and SB had more to go but the lever hit the dash. Pretty good for a 26' Regulator.

[rodbolt17]

dude.
there isn't any adjustments.
no magic bullets.
once a mechanical cable is set its set FOR LIFE.
once something wears lifes up.
most likely your having fuel issues not cable issues.
however you can watch TPS voltages on both engines as yo advance the throttles.
that will tell you if the throttles are opening close together.

[99yam40]

one time I had a old johnson 35 with a throttle cable that had something wrong with it, when you moved one end at the controler the other end on motor did not move unlil a little more movement was added.
Could not make it to full throttle and had a problem getting the motor back to low idle.
Figured the cable was crimped wrong or something. had slack in it.
Not sure how they could accomplish that
It was a new cable I picked up from a close out of a shop.
Just put the old cable back on it it worked fine

I believe Rodbolt, if the TPS voltages and throttle plates are in sync but RPMs are not you have a motor problem

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't have experiance with the specific cables/control box you have BUT, cabes do stretch/wear with time.

I just removed one from a mower that the safety inner cable broke. The day before, another mower had the inner safety cable stretch easily an inch.

*Besides Rodbolts post, I would compare, (with the cowl off BOTH engines), and the THROTTLES in the same position, where on EACH ENGINE, the cable ends are in relation to each other.

If one cable is longer/shorter than the other and there is no adjustment, its obvious the cable is a different lenth(worn/stretched).


And CaptSolo, IMO, I wouldn't use WD 40 as a permanent cable lubricant. Its better than nothing but they make cable specific sprays and tools. The tool shown below is motorcycle cable specific but MAY work on your cables. It simply clamps around the outer sheath, the pressure in the can blows all the crap out and leaves a nice clean film inside. IMO, ANY cable specific lube would be better that WD40.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-C...4c80c8&vxp=mtr

[eddy2419]

dude.
there isn't any adjustments.
no magic bullets.
once a mechanical cable is set its set FOR LIFE.
once something wears lifes up.
most likely your having fuel issues not cable issues.
however you can watch TPS voltages on both engines as yo advance the throttles.
that will tell you if the throttles are opening close together.

Thanks rod. I will start there.

[BQUICK]

You can also reposition the 704 handles so you don't hit the console at WOT.

Position so neutral is where reverse is now. Allieviates you bending so far over at full throttle too.

[eddy2419]

Thanks for the responses. The engines run very well now so I am not going to tackle it until after the Abaco trip.

[eddy2419]

Made it back from Abaco. 200 miles one way from Ft. Pierce. Decided to fix the throttle issue. The idle screw flange on SB was bent upward somewhat causing the problem. I bent it back to match port and all is well. Someone messed it before I got it. Probably not realizing the screw for the throttle in left handed.