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  • MotoMan Break In Secret

    Was surfing the internet and came across this article.

    Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

    Just curious about what the Yamaha experts think about this ...
    NWwalleye

  • #2
    me thinks its mosty a croc.
    while he is correct about modern machining,honing and metal improvements since the first 327 chebby I built in 1976, there is a LOT more sheet going on than JUST rings.
    what about the cam bearings?
    rod bearings?
    main bearings?
    balancers if used?
    cam lobes?
    wear pads or rocker arms?

    the list goes on.
    all these parts MUST be at the same party.
    they don't always get along.

    next we will see super breakin oil that gains 30 % horsepower with spit.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post

      next we will see super breakin oil that gains 30 % horsepower with spit.

      too funny ... lol ...
      NWwalleye

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      • #4
        Since he knows more than the companies that make the engines, he must be right.

        Reminds of the time my son said he needed an oil change. I asked him why. He said the sticker the oil place put on said he needed one. I asked if the truck computer showed he needed one and he said no but wanted one anyway.

        OK, I asked him what does the oil place do? Sell oil right? If the engine blows up who replaces it under warranty? GMC, not the oil place right? Now which one do you believe?

        I think he got it.
        Last edited by eddy2419; 06-21-2014, 09:01 AM.

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        • #5
          its funny, I don't recall ever breaking in our drag car engines.
          we would run the valve springs in a street car for several hundred miles to allow them to do some heat cycles.
          however our race engines tended to get disassembled more than granny's grocery getter.

          with todays EFI outboards we can look at RPM profiles and get a decent idea of if it was broken in correctly or not.
          we typically record a download at the 20 hour check.

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          • #6
            According to Yamaha it is apparently acceptable to break in a new motor by running it at idle RPM for the first ten hours.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
              next we will see super breakin oil that gains 30 % horsepower with spit.
              That's going to be expensive!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                According to Yamaha it is apparently acceptable to break in a new motor by running it at idle RPM for the first ten hours.
                The Yamaha app has a new (to me) break in procedure for my F250XCA, although it is too late for mine:

                First 10-minutes - run engine at the lowest possible speed (idle). A fast in-gear idle is best.

                Next 50-minutes - do not exceed half throttle (approxiimately 3000 rpms). Vary engine speed occasionally. If you have an easy planing boat, accelerate at full throttle onto plane, then immediately reduce throttle to 3000 rpms or less.

                Next two hours - accelerate at full throttle onto plane, then reduce engine speed to 3/4 throttle (approxmately 4000 rpms). Vary engine speed occasionally. Run at full throttle for 1 minute, then allow 10 minutes of operation at 3/4 throttle or less. (looks like they are addressing the making oil issue similar to the Verado procedure)

                Next seven hours - run the engine at any speed however avoid operating at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.

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                • #9
                  Back in 2004, when I got my Yamaha FJR1300 Sport/Touring motorcycle, I did a semi Motorman break in. Not quite to red line (9,000 RPM's, 145 HP) changed the oil and filter at 30 miles. Bunch of silver break in crap come out.

                  Did a bunch of heat cycles and oil changes WAY before the recommended FIRST oil change at 600 miles. I couldn't image pumping that crap thru your engine for 600 miles as recommended..

                  Anyway, bike ALWAYS ran great, never burned a drop of oil, easily power wheelied in first and second gears. Waited until at least 3,000 miles before NOT using regular dino oil to make sure it was good and broke in...

                  Next new bike, I'd do the same and change the oil just as quick...

                  Lots of heat cycles are key, sitting and running at a STEADY RPM (cruising is a BIG NO, NO, even the manual tells you that), vary the throttle as much as possible, accelerate, de-celerate, (Thats ALL BASIC break in procedures at least in the MC world)


                  Scott
                  1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post

                    next we will see super breakin oil that gains 30 % horsepower with spit.
                    What do you have against Amsoil?

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                    • #11
                      This right from my 2014 F90 manual ...


                      Run the engine under load (in gear with a propeller installed) for 10 hours as follows.

                      1. First hour of operation :
                      Run the engine at 2000 r/min or at approximately half throttle.

                      2. Second hour of operation :
                      Increase speed as much as necessary to put boat on plane ( but avoid full throttle operation ),
                      then back off throttle while keeping the boat at planing speeds

                      3. Remaining eight hours:
                      Run the engine at any speed. However, avoid operating at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.

                      4. After the first 10 hours:
                      Then operate the engine normally.
                      NWwalleye

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