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New Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke and 703 control box problem

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  • New Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke and 703 control box problem

    I have installed a Yamaha 703 remote control assembly to my 2013 electric start Yamaha 9.9 high thrust outboard motor. This is a sailboat install and I have removed the power lift and auxiliary instrument wiring which I don't need. I have maintained the wiring integrity according to the schematic and established that there is 12V. power to the engine and to the control box. However, with the emergency stop key in place, when I turn the ignition switch key, all I get is a barely audible 'click' from the engine. The pre-delivery checklist says that the engine was started so I have to assume that the starter is fine. Is it possible that I might have a faulty emergency stop switch or a faulty main ignition switch in the 703 control box?

  • #2
    I would check the condition of the battery and the wiring from the battery to the motor. At both ends. Battery end and motor end.

    The kill switch circuit is not involved with the starting of a motor. The fact that you hear a click leads me to believe the key switch is doing its job and that for some reason there is insufficient voltage for the motor to crank.

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    • #3
      New Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke and 703 control box problem

      Thanks boscoe99, my battery reads 12.68V at rest and I get the same reading at the motor and across the black & red leads that enter the main ignition switch in the control box.

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      • #4
        check those voltage readings again but this time with the start engaged

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        • #5
          Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke and 703 control box problem

          I get 12.56V on the black & red wires to the main switch and when I turn the key it drops to 11.99V!

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          • #6
            what are you calling main switch?

            Start at battery and work your way to the start relay and then starter.
            remember the neg cable or connection can be a problem also

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            • #7
              gotta remember folks.
              dealing with a blowboater.

              mantra
              winds free and everything else outta be.

              most neglected turd motors on the planet.\

              otherwise this post would not exist.

              had the poster actually had the motor rigged correctly in 2013, this post would not exist.

              however if the poster wishs to disscuss wire colors, what control box and what ign switch is being used.
              I may chime in.

              still don't like blow boats.

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              • #8
                I road on one, one or two times, did not like the leaning over all the time with me drinking it could have been a problem

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                • #9
                  I've sailed my boat around the world and noone cared what kind of boat you were - we were all out there "doing it". The only time we met a ****, he was a power boater.
                  Thanks to those who tried to help.

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                  • #10
                    Rod is a Yamaha master tech, dont let us get to you with what we throw out there on this forum, just post the info asked for and you will get the help you need

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                    • #11
                      I work on blow boat kickers all the time.
                      you would not believe some of the cheese bone stuff I see.
                      but without knowing what key switch assy is used or which control box is used or even a complete engine model number I cant help much.
                      I do have a T9.9 25" shaft electric start for sale.

                      but typically blow boaters and some power boaters, try to do to much themselves and spend no money.

                      sometimes its best to spend the coin up front and go play.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                        I work on blow boat kickers all the time.
                        you would not believe some of the cheese bone stuff I see.
                        but without knowing what key switch assy is used or which control box is used or even a complete engine model number I cant help much.
                        I do have a T9.9 25" shaft electric start for sale.

                        but typically blow boaters and some power boaters, try to do to much themselves and spend no money.

                        sometimes its best to spend the coin up front and go play.
                        This guy is barely literate. A good example of how an ego get inflated when you've been around too long.
                        If the master tech was paying attention, he would have seen in my very first post that I was dealing with a 703 control box and 2013 which is likely to be under warranty and in fact, has a three year warranty.
                        The obvious approach is to test the control box first and if it starts a different engine, then the problem has to be in my engine which is going to be FREE to repair because its under warranty.
                        I took the 703 control box to my local dealer who connected it to one of their 9.9 motors and when the ignition key was turned..........nothing. I was immediately given another control box from stock which was tested with the the dealer's motor. It was fine and of course, when I installed the new control box, my engine started immediately. Problem solved by using simple logic to isolate the potential problems.

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                        • #13
                          simple logic would have told me it COULD NOT be the emergency stop switch as it has NO function regaurding cranking.
                          simple logic would have had me testing the voltage between the brown wire at the start relay to ground with the key in the start position.

                          that my friend is simple logic.
                          could have been done faster than booting up your laptop.

                          always know what your testing and why.
                          and start with the easy stuff first.

                          wont be the first blow boat I ever saw that the first thing that happens is the control box gets modified.

                          warrenty typically wont cover stuff the owner does.

                          warrenty is not insurance.
                          when we replace any part under warrenty we have to tag and hold it for 90 days in case Yamaha wants it back.
                          if they recall it and inspect it and find its NOT a defect in manufacture or workmanship they can charge the dealership for that part.

                          so if I see any signs of customer or other folks that's been dinking with it I take pictures and send them to Kennesaw.

                          I have been doing Yamaha for dealerships since 2000, never saw a bad keyswitch or control box brand new.

                          just Monday I replaced a trim unit on an F350, new unit would not work.
                          I called Yamaha BEFORE I lossened the pump motor to bleed the air.
                          covered me in case they wanted that 2300 doller unit back.

                          goes back to WHY Yamaha does not allow loose engine sales.
                          get caught and you can lose your franchise.

                          on the PDI sheet is a line for engine RPM at WOT.
                          yours was either gundecked or left blank.
                          that PDI sheet is a serialized legal document.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Donaldski View Post
                            I have removed the power lift and auxiliary instrument wiring which I don't need.
                            Did you remove these wires from the new control box again and still have it work. I am suprized they just gave you another one after you cut up the wiring

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