C40TLRX gear box drive shaft seals replacement

[walleye1]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_US218_.jpg

[walleye1]

Pull the carrier there are o rings around it, if need be use heat with mapp gas.

[99yam40]

very true, I have had it for a lot more years then I was thinking,
but there were 2 owners before me.

Made 70 lbs of deer and pork sausage yesterday , brother cold smoked it last night.
I need to head back over there and cook the 10lbs of Summer sausage and collect my 1/2 of the links and package and freeze.
Hope to get back on the lower unit tomorrow to see if I can get the prop shaft seals out without hurting anything.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As you've had the engine for years, have maintained it, can verify no water prior to this and, the unit worked fine (you caught the leak early), I seriously doubt you'll find any bearing damage.

Of course it doesn't hurt to check but it's been good all this time, (no sloppiness, shifting issues, etc). Rubber goes away with time, SS seal springs fail / break. You caught it early..

[99yam40]

manual says to pressure test at 14.2 psi.
mine held at 10 but failed below the spec pressure.
and I had water getting in not just once.

I have to find a way to stop the water, so new seals and some plastic housings along with some o rings is where I start.
after 20 years I hope the shafts , bearing , and races are still good.
I have no idea what has been done or not been done to this motor before I got my hands on it

[zenoahphobic]

And I think when a little water is found, it probably was sucked in by contraction when the lower unit gets dipped into cold water.
After an outboard has run and is stopped and raised it's temperature will rise from the stored heat from running friction and/or from the exhaust heat that had passed through the prop hub; and then is lowered again the air inside cools and contracts creating a lower pressure forcing the water that is at higher Bosconian pressure in.

[zenoahphobic]

Remember, for those that are reading this, extremely low pressure should be used, as I believe a fully new unit would probably also leak in those places that 99yam has found when you use those pressures; a couple of PSI was the consensus I thought.
Using a high pressure pump and a correspondingly high reading or insensitive gauge, together with a slow switch off, runs the risk of blowing the seals out or inside out.

[99yam40]

Yes that is what I will try to start out with,

the post that disappeared came back (#10)
that says I pressure tested and it .
and held at 10PSI, but at 13 it leaked at all shaft seals

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I gather you didn't pressure check and see where the leak is coming from first?? Would have been nice to narrow down (say it was the aluminum housing O-ring / carrier seal) then you know it has to come out...

You may have seen it already, but there's several You Tubes showing prop seal replacement using sheet metal screws after CAREFULLY DRILLLING the old seals (and yanking them).

Being a Backyardian, having a 20 year old motor, I'd try that first.. Is it the correct way-nope. Will it work, most likely...

[99yam40]

I was hoping you would respond Rodbolt, and thanks for the info.

I have a friend that has a lathe and welding machines, maybe he can make something for me.

I am not sure what you are saying on the
"if your pushs and pull don't worry about it.
if it rotates left and right then pull the shift shaft."
can you explain that a little better.

never mind, It just hit me.
Yes mine rotates to shift not pull up and down.

I have already pulled the shift shaft, but still no moving.
I guess I need to look at pulling the seals on the prop shaft without pulling the carrier.

I was just thinking inspecting the bearings and gears would be a good idea.
but on a 20 year old salt/ brackish motor, seals only on that would be the best to see how it plays out.

I did not find much if any metal on the drain screw, so I will hope for the best

[rodbolt17]

if this motor has ever seen salt or brackish water do yourself a favor.
fuggit about pulling the carrier.
wont come out.
they made the c 40 shift in two desighns.
if your pushs and pull don't worry about it.
if it rotates left and right then pull the shift shaft.
have a machine shop make you an adapter with your slide hammer thread on one end and the propshaft thread on the other.
pull the shaft and carrier together.

[99yam40]

I do not know what happened to my other post, but they might put it back.

yea I plan on seeing what all I need before ordering parts,and find the best prices
need to make sure bearings are good after having water in there

[walleye1]

Instead of ordering a seal kit order the parts separate,there seal kit has stuff you don't need like a power head gasket.
And it is cheaper.

[99yam40]

I have air compressors so it was easy once I found all of the fittings I needed.
turned the regulator to just 10 psi and then slowly opened the valve to the lower unit.
when it built up to 10 psi I closed the valve and watched to gauge and listened for air leaks.
I did not hear or see anything that would show as a leak. so I went and looked in service manual and saw I needed to go to 14.2 PSI.
went back to shop and the gauge had not dropped after maybe 5 minutes.

so I started slowly raising the regulated pressure and when I got to 13 psi , I could hear it coming out of the drive shaft seals and had a little water and oil coming out of the prop shaft seals.
even saw a few bubbles from the shift shaft seal.
Time to reseal the whole thing .

I will pull and inspect the shafts,bearings, and gears before I order anything

So I had to drill and use screws to pull the Shift Shaft housing and the drive shaft seal housing.
I am working on rigging up some arms to get a hold of the prop shaft carrier.

Being that the web that you hook onto on the carrier is slanted toward the outside diameter, the farther it goes back towards the prop end. Is there a special area that I need to get a hold of?

I bent a couple of bolts into a hook to grab the web so they will slide to the out side as i put a strain on the puller. I see no other way to do this right off hand.

back to the hardware store

[walleye1]

Get a cheap bicycle tire pump and t a gauge in line.