Originally posted by boscoe99
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gas in oil crankcase. How else could gas get into oil.
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I broke mine in by the book. Used dino oil in my 2014 F300s from 0-700 hours, and synthetic from 700-1050. No oil made from 0-800 hours, but both have been making oil from 800-1050 hours. I'm over 5% fuel dilution regularly now. I also stopped using ring free from about 600-900 hours. I ***** alot. I've switched back to dino to see what happens - should know in a few months if wind ever stops blowing.Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostKnowing what we know about the propensity of an outboard motor to make oil, what would be the most useful recommendations that might be made? For the small percentage of the boating public that seems to have this type of an issue.
Let's hear some ideas from all.
My list would be, in no particular order:
1. Break in by the book - up and down with some high rpms to help get seated.
2. Use ring free.
3. Change thermostats as recommended.
4. Ethanol free fuel if possible.
5. Dino oil, instead of synthetic.
6. Run WOT occasionally when possible.
7. Sure I'm forgetting some . . . .
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I bought the Mercury "F90" brand new - and obviously did NOT follow Mercury's instructions to the letter -
that engine has never been run over 5000 rpms.
(nor "made oil")
Surprised Boscoe didn’t jump on this. He did once before.....bout two years ago matter a fact.
How do you know that F90 is propped correctly? How do you know you are getting the best that motor can produce?
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Natural way of thinking is that a motor is being abused when run at very high power settings.
Meanwhile 99 percent of piston aircraft motors take off every time at 100 percent power. Day in, day out. To no harm.
Most will then perform at 75 percent of max power for the duration of the flight after take off.
Running very hot the entire time.
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Good point.Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
I bought the Mercury "F90" brand new - and obviously did NOT follow Mercury's instructions to the letter -
that engine has never been run over 5000 rpms.
(nor "made oil")
Surprised Boscoe didn’t jump on this. He did once before.....bout two years ago matter a fact.
How do you know that F90 is propped correctly? How do you know you are getting the best that motor can produce?
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that is something I have not really thought about before.Originally posted by walleye1 View PostThese engines run uphill all the time, running at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is harder on them than running wot.
But if the HP rating is at 5500 or 6000, and you run them at 3K or 4K RPM how much HP is there for turning the prop.
being that same prop has to load the motor at all RPM
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On a planing hull, yes.- but once on plane water and air resistance increase as the square of velocity.Originally posted by walleye1 View PostThese engines run uphill all the time, running at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is harder on them than running wot.
I “feel” - no evidence - that the engine is working “easiest” where torque peaks on rpm curve -
which is probably well below max HP / WOT
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Just what i was taught and told by some great tech's.Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
On a planing hull, yes.- but once on plane water and air resistance increase as the square of velocity.
I “feel” - no evidence - that the engine is working “easiest” where torque peaks on rpm curve -
which is probably well below max HP / WOT
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PT6 is not specific enough.....You can do better.Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
We have done so much with so little for so long that we can now do everything with nothing at all.
I am guessing that it is a four stroke of some kind. Might be a Yamaha brand. I have been known to guess wrong. A Pratt & Whitney PT6 perhaps?
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But what about having the most efficient propeller for all rpms?Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
On a planing hull, yes.- but once on plane water and air resistance increase as the square of velocity.
I “feel” - no evidence - that the engine is working “easiest” where torque peaks on rpm curve -
which is probably well below max HP / WOT
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