2006 F115- low (no) voltage after running a while

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

2006 f115 (68v-L-1055558). Been laying up on charger for 8 months during duck season. Did annual maintenance and drained fuel tank. On first trip out all seemed fine while running. After running about 20 minutes noticed alternator voltage was at 11.8V (normally 14.x V at high rpm's). Switched batteries and on restart same thing while running. Both batteries should be good. 1 a year old and the other 3 years old but runs *****ing motor fine. Came home and cleaned all electrical connections and grounds on batteries, battery switch, and engine. Sealed with corrosion block. Tested at home while running on hose and getting 13.v-14.x V. Ran for 15 minutes and same result. Thought all was good. Took out on trip and after 15-20 minutes of high rpm running same thing. Motor never stumbled or gave me any trouble except for low voltage reading ( it was throwing "low voltage alarm" via NMEA 2000 gauge hooked up). Figured time for some elec testing. Unhooked lighting coil plug from rectifier/reg and the plastic internals of the plug on the lighting coil fell apart. From the heat I assume. See attached pics. Resistance tested all 3 green (white) leads from lighting coil to themselves and all showed resistance of .8 ohm. Also checked ground of lighting coil green wires to ground and there was no short to gound. Manual says I need to really check lighting coil and rectifier/reg with special adapter while running and with a DVA neither of which I have. Plan on buying a new reg/rectifier (~$105.00) to start though I hate throwing parts at things. Will a bad reg/rect go out once heated and then return to normal once cooled down? Always in driveway on hose voltage is good, even now. Should I have to buy a new lighting coil (~$450.00) for the new plug internals. It seems to test out fine although I cannot do a running test. If I buy a new rec/reg and install it and the lighting coil is bad canl it blow that new rec/reg as well. Help!!!!! Ideas??

Sorry for the length but trying to include as much info as possible from the start.

[RetiredGuy]

As many others have stated - those Rectifier/Regulator assemblies are not very robust, actually they are very fragile. Poor / loose battery connections will take them out very quickly.

Check the wiring harness ends that connect to the R/R - Yamaha does not sell the connector ends (You can get them on line). Yamaha will sell you the entire wiring harness priced @ SEVERAL hundred dollars.

Replaced my R/R due to excessive voltage - the new unit had a pigtail as compared to the integrated socket on the assembly. Have to guess Yamaha got tired of replacing the wiring harness under warranty when the R/R burned up as it does way too often.

I would venture a guess that the Rectifier/Regulator is your only problem. BUT make sure you batteries are connected properly and the switch does not OPEN the connection when changing batteries. A make before break switch is required when switching the starting battery with the engine running.

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

Thanks for the response. Any idea where I can buy just the connector from for the lighting coil plug into the r/r? That would be a major savings.

I forgot to subtract the leads resistance from the lighting coil resistance measurements. With that subtracted, the resistance measured .4 ohms across all white (green) leads.

I never switch batteries while running.

[RetiredGuy]

Good to hear "I never switch batteries while running" - Sooo many folks do and pay the price
No wing nuts or AGM's on starting batteries with the Yamaha R/R system - or you will be paying the price

I would guess your coils are just fine - suggest you concentrate on the R/R and the connector end of the wiring harness

These guys might have the connector - they had the three terminal for the YDS interface that i needed

SMHW

Looking at your pics it does indeed look as if the wiring harness end connector is fried - a poor connection there will take out the R/R VERY quickly - Suggest you replace that connector before installing a new R/R

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

Will order a new R/R. I noticed they replaced the R/R part number with a new one. Hopefully the one with the pigtail. Old R/R part number was 68v-81960-00-00. New replacement part number is 6d3-81960-00-00. From pictures I could find o fteh new part it does not appear to have the pigtail. It has the integrated male plug like the old one.

That link to easternbeaver is not working. Any other advice to as to where to buy the connector?

Also, Thanks for all the help.

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

Found a site with a connector that appears the same:

Regulator Rectifier Connector Kit Yamaha 1999-2013 (Rhino,Road Star, V-Star, RS Venture, SX , Grizzly, Raptor, YFZ, STX)

Part is for a Yamaha Raptor, Grizzly , Rhine, etc... The r/r for those appears to be part number 5bn-81960-00-00. Very close to the one for my outboard (6d3-81960-00-00). The connector is $9.00. Think I will give it a shot. Hope this helps someone else in the future.

The link finally worked for me to easternbeaver, but it was difficult to find the right looking connector.

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

Can someone confirm that for my motor, 2006 F115 (68v-L-1055558) I need regulator/rectifier part number, 6D3-81960-00-00; which replaces the original part, 68V-81960-00-00. Just being paranoid. Thanks in advance.

[boscoe99]

The requirement for your model is 68F-81960-02-00.

How did you get to the 6D3 prefix part.

[herb.wilson@uno.edu]

Went to yamahaoutboards.com site and did their parts lookup. Put in my PID (serial number) 68v-L-1055558. Mine is a early 2006 model really made in 04 of 2005.. Looked at electrical 1 and part #14 is listed as 68v-81960-00-00. When I looked up that part number on the web many places had 6d3-81960-00-00 as superceeding it. PartsPak has it as:

Yamaha 68V-81960-00-00 Rectifier & Regulator Assembly; New # 6D3-81960-00-00

[boscoe99]

Buy what you wish.

Just know that electrical parts are not returnable.

[99yam40]

The requirement for your model is 68F-81960-02-00.

How did you get to the 6D3 prefix part.

Boscoe99 could you show where you got that part # from?
might help him as when I punch it in it does not show up as for a F115tlr

[boscoe99]

Boscoe99 could you show where you got that part # from?
might help him as when I punch it in it does not show up as for a F115tlr

Unless I am reading it wrong, I got internal data that shows a 68F part being superceded by a 68F part. I remember a bulletin about the R/R change but don't have it with me know. I am presently in Costa Rica.

It is strange to me some websites showing the 68F part being replaced by a 6D3 part. At this website the 6D3 does not show usage on an F115.

6D3-81960-00-00 YAMAHA RECTIFIER & REGULATO

[boscoe99]

Where the hell is Rodbolt?

[99yam40]

listed for a 2006 F115TLR here on this site I find 68V-81960-10-00

68V-81960-10-00 RECTIFIER & REGULATO

When I do a look up on 68F-81960-02-00 I get this

Boats.net Search: 68F-81960-02-00.

[boscoe99]

Contact a local Yam dealer and ask him to show/give you a copy of technical bulletin 2008-024. It addresses the installation of the changed configuration R/R to an older model F115. The new part has the connector attached to the device with wires. It still carries the 68F prefix however.