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  • Tilt, Trim Gauge not reading

    Have an 04 yamaha 90 2 stroke and the tilt trim gauge stopped working, trying to trouble shoot. when key is turned to on position the gauge needle goes all the way up and when turned off releases and goes down after several seconds (as if de energized slowly).
    Trim sendor arm above trim motor is moving freely seems to work as designed.

    electrical connections seem ok.

    Is the trim sendor bad, do they go bad often? or is it the gauge? gauge lights work.
    should voltage be checked? what is the best troubleshooting method?
    Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    The sensor, part #1, I believe, is a variable resistor.

    The resistance in the switch itself should change as the arm is moved. For the exact spec's, check your shop manual however, you should be able to see a change as the arm is moved. If theres no change, the issue is likely in that switch.


    2004 90TLRC Yamaha Outboard BRACKET 2 Diagram and Parts
    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 04-16-2014, 03:35 PM.
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

    Comment


    • #3
      thank you very much for feedback. I checked the sending unit with an ohmn meter and only mili ohmns when moving the arm. I ordered and new sender and will try it out.
      Now having a heck of a time removing tilt trim piston caps to replace seals. ordered a better spanner wrench to try, perhaps with a cheater bar, on very tight.
      dont want to apply heat due to seals.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Lars.Koster@hines.com View Post
        thank you very much for feedback. I checked the sending unit with an ohmn meter and only mili ohmns when moving the arm. I ordered and new sender and will try it out.
        Now having a heck of a time removing tilt trim piston caps to replace seals. ordered a better spanner wrench to try, perhaps with a cheater bar, on very tight.
        dont want to apply heat due to seals.
        I've never had them off but per the manual, their torqed on very tight. If your replacing all the seals anyway (everything rubber/plastic) I don't think some heat would bother anything.

        If the tool fits nice and snug in the cap, and you (maybe with some help), can hold it down tightly, a decent tap to the tool with a hammer may shock it loose. PB Blaster works really well if corrosion is holding parts together..

        I'd probably leave the entire unit on the engine until their broke loose just so it doesn't move about on you...

        Good luck..
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

        Comment

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