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SX225TXRZ - Ignition troubles

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  • SX225TXRZ - Ignition troubles

    Hey guys... After fixing the HP pump issue the motor is showing ignition problems. Some cylinders are not sparking, at least the light in the tester is very faint. I tried testing the peak voltage but I'm having a hard time keeping the motor cranking long enough to get a good reading. This are the results so far:

    CDI Unit output:
    Cyl 1 - 100v | Cyl 2 - 109v | Cyl 3 - 75v | Cyl 4 - 106v | Cyl 5 - 93v | Cyl 6 - 85v

    Charge Coil output:
    First test: B/R - 171v | R - 187v | Br - 112v | L - 15v
    Second test: B/R - 123v | R - 106v | Br - 112v | L - 15v

    Pulser Coil output:
    First test: W/R - 10v | W/B - 9v | W/Y - 15v | W/G - 9v | W/L - 9v | W/Br - 6v
    Second test: W/R - 5v | W/B - 7v | W/Y - 5v | W/G - 4v | W/L - 4v | W/Br - 4v

    Is there anything on these readings so far to pinpoint where the issue resides?

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by mesias_yam; 08-18-2018, 01:06 PM.

  • #2
    whuuuut??????

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    • #3
      whuuut????? yo have a cranking issue to solve way before you deal with ign issues.

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      • #4
        why does it stop turning over?

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        • #5
          I always forget you guys can't read what I'm thinking...

          The motor turns and start pretty much OK, good fuel pressure and everything. My concerns started with its sound, it wasn't sounding as it used to sound. Also, after a few minutes of running, the fuel pressure increased to over 40 PSI. I tested the fuel regulator (which have new o rings and clean filter) and it was working fine. Not sure what else can cause the fuel pressure issue but it is secondary for now.

          I checked sparks with a light bulb type tool and the motor running, not all plugs seemed to be lighting up. I really had a hard time using this tool outside in the sun where is too bright. I now purchased a PET4000EC Spark Tester which I hope is better tool. I have to confirm and document which coil is sparking properly which I didn't do before.

          After testing the sparks I got concerned with the motor running if some cylinders are not firing. Keep in mind they were recently honed and I just installed new rings. I decided to empty the VST and just crank the motor to test the voltages I showed in my initial post. This is when I noticed the motor not turning long enough.

          I know the fuel injected also lubricate the cylinders so this is not a good idea either. What's the best approach on this?

          I should get the 6 pin harness for the pulser coil next week...

          I really appreciate all your help and time to go over my posts.

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          • #6
            still no info on why the motor is not turning long enough for proper testing

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            • #7
              that motor should crank over as long as you hold the key in the start position. if it does not then fix that issue first.
              you are aware the SX version does use CCS.

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              • #8
                I'm sort of aware this motor uses CCS... I'm not very familiar with it tho. The reference I have is that if everything is normal, temp is above 115 you loose spark on #5 until around 2000 RPM and on #2 cylinder between about 850 and 2000. I don't know what's supposed to happen while cranking... I'm assuming all cylinders should spark.

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                • #9
                  I disconnected the wires from the HP fuel pump and emptied again the VST. The motor turned just fine, I could take better peak voltage readings this time with the help of an extra set of hands. I also noticed the motor stopped cranking because it started for a fraction of a second... go figure... it started with just the pressure of the LP pumps. But when I tested the sparks, no sparks from any coil. I'm lost.

                  I updated the readings in the first post to avoid confusion. I still don't have the 6 pin harness. Boats.net says it was going to be in stock today. I will hopefully receive it next week.

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                  • #10
                    the motor stops turning over because it starts for a fraction of a second does not compute to me.
                    and how can there be no spark if the motor is starting.

                    why does the starter stop working when the key is in the start position?

                    maybe low voltage would cause low or no spark and cause starter to drop out
                    Last edited by 99yam40; 07-27-2018, 11:01 PM.

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                    • #11
                      it is a CDI ign, battery voltage wont affect it as long as the flywheel turns.

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                      • #12
                        I finally got my hands on a 6 pin test harness and I could get the readings from the pulser coil. I updated the fisrt post but here are the readings:

                        CDI Unit output:
                        Cyl 1 - 100v | Cyl 2 - 109v | Cyl 3 - 75v | Cyl 4 - 106v | Cyl 5 - 93v | Cyl 6 - 85v

                        Charge Coil output:
                        First test: B/R - 171v | R - 187v | Br - 112v | L - 15v
                        Second test: B/R - 123v | R - 106v | Br - 112v | L - 15v

                        Pulser Coil output:
                        First test: W/R - 10v | W/B - 9v | W/Y - 15v | W/G - 9v | W/L - 9v | W/Br - 6v
                        Second test: W/R - 5v | W/B - 7v | W/Y - 5v | W/G - 4v | W/L - 4v | W/Br - 4v

                        I'm still sort of confused where to look next. Following the service manual all indicates the CDI is toasted. But the low reading of the charger coil blue wire indicates it is also defective. All these componets worked just fine before I removed them.

                        Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

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                        • #13
                          So what are the specs you are supposed to get from the CDI output?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mesias_yam View Post
                            I finally got my hands on a 6 pin test harness and I could get the readings from the pulser coil. I updated the fisrt post but here are the readings:

                            CDI Unit output:
                            Cyl 1 - 100v | Cyl 2 - 109v | Cyl 3 - 75v | Cyl 4 - 106v | Cyl 5 - 93v | Cyl 6 - 85v

                            Charge Coil output:
                            First test: B/R - 171v | R - 187v | Br - 112v | L - 15v
                            Second test: B/R - 123v | R - 106v | Br - 112v | L - 15v

                            Pulser Coil output:
                            First test: W/R - 10v | W/B - 9v | W/Y - 15v | W/G - 9v | W/L - 9v | W/Br - 6v
                            Second test: W/R - 5v | W/B - 7v | W/Y - 5v | W/G - 4v | W/L - 4v | W/Br - 4v

                            I'm still sort of confused where to look next. Following the service manual all indicates the CDI is toasted. But the low reading of the charger coil blue wire indicates it is also defective. All these componets worked just fine before I removed them.

                            Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
                            were these tests done loaded or unloaded?

                            And what Peak voltage meter are you using?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              and you test red to brown and black/red to blue.
                              myself I would test the CDI output and see, the CDI does not amplify anything it pretty much feeds the ign coil prmary what the charge coil fed it.
                              is this a 2.6l motor or a 3.1?

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