F100 Voltage regulator and spotlight

[safaritours]

Greetings from down under Australia, jusy thought I would drop a line, last year I had to use a 100 watt spotlight at night and while switching battery whilst motor was going I blew up my CDI and all my gauges and a few other electronics including led running lights, last night I switched the same hand held spot light on and within 10 min as I got to the dock the engine wouldn't idle, seen the smoke and the smell was wiring burning and a quick check found my regulator was melting, the light was hard wired direct to battery, but obviously something is wrong, ran her up this morning at idle it is fine soon as you put on some revs 1500 she starts burning the regulator again, apart from the regulator any ideas out there.

[throrope]

What's your outboard? Our 90 TLR has a 10 amp alternator and good for 120 watts total capacity (10 amps x 12 volts = 120 watts). So, running anything beyond basic running lights and instruments isn't a good idea.

If you have same, moving forward, I suggest adding a second battery and selector switch to isolate your lamps and run strictly off battery. Then when done or your second battery is dead, disconnect the light, switch to connect both and only charge the battery or wait until you get home and use a battery charger.

Better yet, invest in battery operated LED lights. Much cheaper than repairs.

Now that things are cooked, I also suggest you check every wire, fuse socket and connection possible for damage from heat or over current.

[safaritours]

thanks running a F100A and all my lights are LED except the emergency spotlight, looks like I need that to be as well, funny I thought they had a 12 to 20 amp in Australia at least, another factor could be my second battery its a dry cell deep cycle and that is what the spotlight was connected too, pretty sure that's stuffed might have been prior as it went flat quick, onto checking all the other wiring at the moment, for your info a second hand part here is 250 au dollars new part there 230 US dollar plus 50 postage from my checking on site lol, cheers John

[rodbolt17]

always remember what the MAX current output is and never exceed it.
that spotlamp needs about 10 amps all by its lonesome.
now what does the motor need to just stay running?
most carbed 4 strokes take about 3 amps to run.
EFI 4 strokes take almost 9 amps just to run.

add dash and running lights and we add another 3 or so amps.

whats the output of the system at low speeds?

couple that with any loose connections and the fact the inline 4 stroke regulators are not particularly robust and you can get an idea of what you can run while the battery is connected to the system.

[99yam40]

another factor could be my second battery its a dry cell deep cycle and that is what the spotlight was connected too, pretty sure that's stuffed might have been prior as it went flat quick,

What are you calling a dry cell battery?
I Goggled it and ,did not know they made dry cell 12 volt batteries

Could this be a part of the problem?
Not sure Yamaha would recommend a dry cell hooked to their motors.
You can ask to make sure

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What are you calling a dry cell battery?
I Goggled it and ,did not know they made dry cell 12 volt batteries

Could this be a part of the problem?
Not sure Yamaha would recommend a dry cell hooked to their motors.
You can ask to make sure

Lithium or Optima AGM maybe?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...N-25t6Z1z13vzq