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what performance gains could I see using yamaha synthetic oils

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  • what performance gains could I see using yamaha synthetic oils

    I have a stock 2010 F150,what performance gains could I get if I switch from non synthetic yamaha motor oil and gear lube to synthetic yamaha gear lube and motor oil ?
    Thanks Joe R

  • #2
    Zero. Nada. Zilch. Nil.

    Comment


    • #3
      on the motor, simply a lighter wallet.

      on the lower? a MUCH MUCH lighter wallet in the future as full synthetic GL5 oil is NOT recommended and can damage the gearcase.
      I found this out on a personal F50.
      ripped the fwd gear bushing out of the gear.
      we found and Yamaha confirmed if the lower contains any bushings then NO synthetic.

      people and oil get funny.
      I have a friend that claims he can tell the performance difference on his toyota truck after an oil change.
      I think he is a Christmas turkey.

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      • #4
        Once posted the following video where on forum:

        Oil test Shell Helix ULTRA 5W-40 vs 20W-50 Yamaha 100Hp fuera de Borda Outboard Engine Fuel Saving - YouTube

        Note that none of this oils used on the video aren´t recomended for the tested model.

        Yamaha recomends 10W-30 or 10W-40 for F100

        I know this is a very subjective test and we would need to know much more to consider this test acceptable.

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        • #5
          I hear synthetic oil in the crankcase does hold up better as far as viscosity over long periods of heat and friction.... could be bs ... but I feel better using it in my engines....I would like to find out if I am waisting my $.........according to the experts here...looks like I am...looks like I will be going back to the reg yamalube. Thanks for the info!!
          Last edited by tidelee10; 12-24-2013, 02:08 PM.

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          • #6
            in 40 years I have never seen a 4 stroke oil brand/viscosity failure.

            some years back my uncle gave me a 3/4ton 4wd 1987 chevy with about 100K on the clock.
            at about 150 K the oil filter gasket blew out on the way home.
            I noticed the washing machine sound on the Currituck bridge.
            got home to Kitty hawk.
            changed the filter added 4.5qts of oil and when I gave it away it had 297K on the clock and still ran.
            that was the ONLY oil change it ever got with me.
            it used 1qt about every 1500 miles and did since my uncle got it new.

            most every outboard failure I ever see is overheat or lean running.

            in 30 years I have actually seen two outboards simply wear out.
            both were 70 OMC 2 strokes with over 15 years of crabbing.

            the rest died sudden catastrophic deaths due to clogged carbs,clogged fuel systems or overheat.

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            • #7
              10-4. Interesting...Thanks Rod bolt!!

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              • #8
                The viscosity additives in the oil die from use/time running. When they go you don't get proper lubracation increasing wear. Even then the oil still works just not nearly as well.
                Synthetic oils can stand a little more heat before bad things happen. In racing engines this can help save a motor.
                Is it worth the money, in racing money is secondary to winning. Syn. VS. dino oil HP gains? A 300 hp motor running dino oil will make 306hp when run on syn. oil. This is in the shop on the dyno.
                In real tight racing syn. oil may be worth using but, if you change your oil and maintain the motor regular oil does fine.

                Fuel contaminating the oil in carbed motors shortened the oils life. Injectors and computers have helped oi live longer.

                Heat kills oil and motors.

                Trash, carbon, etc. reduces oil life.

                Run what you can afford just keep it clean and change it on time.
                If you overheat the motor change the oil. Heat kills faster than old oil by far.
                Money spent on fuel and oil filters and water pumps will extend the life of a motor more than expensive syn. oil.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                  in 40 years I have never seen a 4 stroke oil brand/viscosity failure.

                  some years back my uncle gave me a 3/4ton 4wd 1987 chevy with about 100K on the clock.
                  at about 150 K the oil filter gasket blew out on the way home.
                  I noticed the washing machine sound on the Currituck bridge.
                  got home to Kitty hawk.
                  changed the filter added 4.5qts of oil and when I gave it away it had 297K on the clock and still ran.
                  that was the ONLY oil change it ever got with me.
                  it used 1qt about every 1500 miles and did since my uncle got it new.

                  most every outboard failure I ever see is overheat or lean running.

                  in 30 years I have actually seen two outboards simply wear out.
                  both were 70 OMC 2 strokes with over 15 years of crabbing.

                  the rest died sudden catastrophic deaths due to clogged carbs,clogged fuel systems or overheat.
                  Some 20 years back my father called and said he had a oil leak on his chevy 1/2 ton. I Found the oil filter had a hole rusted through it.
                  he never changed oil and filter, just added oil as it used it fairly bad.
                  Had over 200k on it. Believe it was a 350 if my mind still works properly

                  I do not remember why he finally bought a new one and left the old one on the farm to run out there doing chores, Maybe the gas mileage was very bad also

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                  • #10
                    I always use the ring free and stabilizer.....I always change my filters (water/fuel sep and primary cup)regularly...I even switched to the 2 micron racor...synthetic oil + crank case stor n start.....guess you could call me overboard....but I would like to prevent problems as much as I can...I keep thinking, a little $ now will save a lot of $$$$$ later...I will save some $ and switch back to the regular yamalube now...Thanks!!

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                    • #11
                      and ditch the 2 micron filter.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                        and ditch the 2 micron filter.
                        10-4....I hear the other filters (F shaped etc) are all 2 micron...someone on another forum said why not run 2 micron from the beginning to help preserve those other filters....looks like I am overdoing it?

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                        • #13
                          10 micron is about the max recommended for Yamaha gas engines.
                          above 115 HP its 10 micron with a 90GPH flow.
                          the smallest of the marinized stuff I have seen so far is the Volvo MPI at 6 micron.

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                          • #14
                            Contrarian view here regarding the two micron Racor filter.

                            I use one but mine is equipped with a vacuum gauge. That way I can easily see if and when it gets to the point that it needs to be removed and replaced.

                            In my case, the vacuum gauge has more than paid for itself in the number of filters (two micron or ten micron types) that it has saved me from replacing unnecessarily.

                            I wonder how many filters two/ten micron filters get thrown away, when changed on a time or calendar basis, when they are in perfectly good condition?

                            Some diesel trucks use a vacuum gauge to indicate when an air filter needs to be replaced or cleaned. For some reason, this has never made its way to the fuel system within our motors. Yamaha puts a water detection system in the fuel filter bowl but conveniently forgets to monitor the filter itself.

                            Oh, that would reduce their filter sales I suppose.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              and the DUMBEST part of the water detect????

                              it wont work if the engine is in gear.
                              only in N.
                              it used to but about 2005 they changed it.

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