Importance of Loctite 648 on Speedi Sleeve installation 06 F250

[zenoahphobic]

Why would the parts be measured? There are no specifications to go by.

The Speedy Sleeve folks say to make sure the part to which the sleeve is being applied needs to be round. No definition that I can find as to what "round" means.

Round means round, not oval. Wear and protruding burrs means not round, presumably they expect the shaft to be built up in the ridges and some machining.

[panasonic]

I will rephrase my question. What is the typical interference fit between the crank shaft and the speedy sleeve? Is it .0005" ..001" .0015" and so on...

It probably in metric...I am curious to know that's all.

[dray0151]

Curiosity killed the cat you know. That's why those little engineers over in Japan don't publish anything. They don't like cats.

[boscoe99]

Round means round, not oval. Wear and protruding burrs means not round, presumably they expect the shaft to be built up in the ridges and some machining.

There is round and then there is round. Round with maybe 0.00001" out of round and or round with maybe 0.001" out or round. No specifications are provided by Yamaha.

Yamaha says to simply polish the crank shaft surface onto which the Speedy Sleeve will be positioned using 1000 grit sand paper. To remove any/all rust or corrosion and raised edges.

The Speedy Sleeve people suggest taking measurement readings to see if the shaft is copecetic. They call for filler material to be used if needed.

It all seems to work no matter what or how it is done. I don't hear much about repairs having to be redone.

[boscoe99]

I will rephrase my question. What is the typical interference fit between the crank shaft and the speedy sleeve? Is it .0005" ..001" .0015" and so on...

It probably in metric...I am curious to know that's all.

Might be found somewhere in here. See page 10. Damn if I can find a tolerance. They seem to simply say use part number XYZ is the shaft diameter is ABC.

http://www.industrialbearings.com.au...1338271826.pdf

Yamaha does something similar when they say to use bearing colours red/white/blue if the measurements are ZZZ and YYY.

[boscoe99]

Curiosity killed the cat you know. That's why those little engineers over in Japan don't publish anything. They don't like cats.

Don't publish so you can't be criticized for what was said.

Like Trump, say what you will internally. Just don't let it be known externally.

[panasonic]

I will rephrase my question. What is the typical interference fit between the crank shaft and the speedy sleeve? Is it .0005" ..001" .0015" and so on...

It probably in metric...I am curious to know that's all.

Ok went to SKF website and reading about the sleeves now....The sleeves have a range on the shaft size.

A SKF P/N 99100 sleeve for a 1.000" nominal shaft will fit a shaft measuring anywhere between 0.998" to 1.002" ,so a 0.004" variance in the shaft size. So this would mean that its interference fit on the shaft would be variable...

The sleeve ID would have to be smaller than 0.998" by some margin (I am guessing a maybe 0.001" to 0.002" smaller) so it would fit tightly on that minimum size without spinning on the shaft. Also it would still have to fit on the max diameter given as 1.002" So the on the larger size its interference is greater.

Seeing that the sleeve is only 0.011" thick, according to the specs, it can expand easily to the largest size in the range given.

I was being lazy and wanted someone else to explain that I guess, I did not know this is how they where designed to work.... learned something today.

[boscoe99]

Ever seen stainless steel wear strips on some air plane wings? Normally where the flaps slide into their up and stowed position. Stainless be tough. Crank shaft steel, not so much. Aluminium, definitely not so.

[panasonic]

Ever seen stainless steel wear strips on some air plane wings? Normally where the flaps slide into their up and stowed position. Stainless be tough. Crank shaft steel, not so much. Aluminium, definitely not so.

Yes I have removed and replaced those kind of strips that you talk of.There is usually a rubber seal that the strip mates to and seals the joint from unwanted airflow and the rubber will wear through the stainless strip....and the rubber will be perfectly fine. The rubber seal will vibrate, in the airflow, on the stainless strip and along with some dirt and hydraulic fluid, eat its way through the wear strip...sometimes very quickly.

We had some trouble with that on Leading Edge slats some years ago and had to change the rubber seals to a different softer material so they would wear out and not the stainless wear strips. Much easier and cheaper to change the rubber seals then the wear strips....

Its pays to keep the plane clean as possible to help slow this kind of thing and nobody likes a dirty looking plane!!

[zenoahphobic]

Never heard of rubber wearing through stainless steel. But I guess the theory is that rubber being soft can hold small particles that then act as grinders. Aluminium is also soft does the same thing on steel, but the thing there is that the "softness" in aluminium means it holds oil more than the corresponding steel surface protecting particles from excessive stress ie the aluminium atoms/ alloy molecules can flex more out of the way (for want of a better scientific description) and also dissipate expansion causing heat better.
I thought speedy sleeves once in last for life, bit like helicoil threads. I have used them on a few things such as boat trailer axles and have never been required to replace them.

Although it might be convenient to know "Yamaha" tolerance specification, it is what speedy sleeve specify, so a bit of shaft measurement at various degree positions should suffice to get an average diameter; the sleeve will expand and flex ovally .Roundness is not so important as the seal can move many times those "thousandths" quoted above.

[jol1ymon]

I would not worry. You used a mallet. Why did you use a speedy sleeve, presumably to stop an oil leak because the shaft looked dodgy? How bad was it will determine the level of your anxiety. A new seal won't move the sleeve. You may do more harm removing it to cause a significant oil leak.

The reason I used the sleeve is because I was replacing the mid-section due to corrosion. I opted to change the oil pump also since I was already going to be there. The kit came with a new oil pump and sleeve. The crank did not look too bad, but there was a wear line on the crank. The motor has not to this point ever leaked any oil. I think I have decided to go ahead and remove the sleeve and replace it with a new one and Loctite. I figure if I heat the sleeve it should expand enough to get it off without damaging the crank. Any other thoughts on how to get it off without damaging the crank?

[rodbolt17]

heat wont work.
two ways.
one is a small ball peen and hammer it all around the circumference until it is loose.
the other is carefully with a small grinding stone thin the sleeve then use a sharpened screwdriver and split it.
been there done that.
this stuff aint hard, were it hard or required much thought I would be cleaning ditch's for the city of Vallejo still.

[zenoahphobic]

heat wont work.
two ways.
one is a small ball peen and hammer it all around the circumference until it is loose.
the other is carefully with a small grinding stone thin the sleeve then use a sharpened screwdriver and split it.
been there done that.
this stuff aint hard, were it hard or required much thought I would be cleaning ditch's for the city of Vallejo still.

Presumably hitting it with hammer you are flattening it out to stretch it.
Or grind stone and sharpened screwdriver, all require the hands of a very skilled surgeon not to damage that shaft, I would think.
Given that the shaft was OK, and that sleeve is really an update (I believe they like helicoils should be put in as standard at manufacture) , I would moreso leave it as it is.

[99yam40]

you do not hit it hard, he said small ball peen

[jol1ymon]

Thanks again for all of the help. I weighed my options and decided that I stood more of a chance doing damage by trying to remove the sleeve, than to just leave it as it is. The crank was in really good shape, just one slight wear mark from the oil seal. Bolted power head back on last night and filled it with oil. Will get the rest of the electrical and linkage finished over the next few days after work. Thanks again everybody!!!