2008 Yamaha F250 TXR Trim and Tilt Assy

[fairdeal]

Where in the heck have you been? I thought maybe rodnut pissed you off and you left.

I'm still checking in, but my interests (and my potential contribution) are narrow; so many threads I never open.

But happy to see you regulars in attendance

(and IMO Rodbolt's practical contributions outweigh any amount of churlishness)

[dray0151]

Woe be unto he who uses Loctite 271. The red from hell.

That's where you should go if you use 271 and ever want to take it loose!

And yes there are anti seize compounds that are non metallic as we have hashed out on here before.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Woe be unto he who uses Loctite 271. The red from hell.

Love my RED Loctite!!

Holds my SS heli-coil in a VERY THIN, aluminum float bowl perfectly. No movement what so ever!


(Allows the generator user to FULLY drain the float bowl easily with one bolt. NO more varnished up jets on your standard 10HP Briggs engine)





(My 5550 / 8550 Generator (brand new, bought used, $300! Used thru Irma for approx. 28 hours). Secured to a VERY heavy concrete pad..

[panasonic]

Love my RED Loctite!!

Holds my SS heli-coil in a VERY THIN, aluminum float bowl perfectly. No movement what so ever!


(Allows the generator user to FULLY drain the float bowl easily with one bolt. NO more varnished up jets on your standard 10HP Briggs engine)





(My 5550 / 8550 Generator (brand new, bought used, $300! Used thru Irma for approx. 28 hours). Secured to a VERY heavy concrete pad..

People take your stuff often?

[panasonic]

Woe be unto he who uses Loctite 271. The red from hell.

Heat will break the Loctite. Standard heat gun and heat up the bolt until you can't touch it for no more then a second and a quick pop with a wrench.

Works the opposite way as well...to cure the Loctite quickly...heat up the bolt/nut then let cool and the Loctite is set.

[pstephens46]

Heat will break the Loctite. Standard heat gun and heat up the bolt until you can't touch it for no more then a second and a quick pop with a wrench.

Works the opposite way as well...to cure the Loctite quickly...heat up the bolt/nut then let cool and the Loctite is set.

Interesting. I knew about heat to break it loose. Never knew about the quick cure.

Panasonic is our resident metallurgist. I think I spelled this correctly.

[boscoe99]

Why use a sealant that is designed to be used only on permanent stuff if the stuff is to be later disassembled? Wouldn't that be an incorrect use of a product?

Do we need a debate over what the word "permanent" means? I guess what permanent means to one is different than what the word permanent means to another. Like the word "is".

At what temperature does paint blister and stuff start to burn?

[panasonic]

Why use a sealant that is designed to be used only on permanent stuff if the stuff is to be later disassembled? Wouldn't that be an incorrect use of a product?

Do we need a debate over what the word "permanent" means? I guess what permanent means to one is different than what the word permanent means to another. Like the word "is".

At what temperature does paint blister and stuff start to burn?

First off I would not use any loctite at all in this case, grease the bolts and tighten them up. In my opinion loctite makes a crappie sealant to keep out water. If you MUST use it to give yourself the warm fuzzy feeling of safety...use the so called "removal" 242 stuff. It is all removable.

Loctite 271 is not "Permanent" it can be removed with heat, and even gives break away and prevail torques for 3/8" fasteners in its spec sheets...without heat.

I believe they mean permanent as in you are putting something together that you do not "think" will ever have to come apart again. Well many times that is not the case. Something comes up and you "have" to take it apart and someone put it together with 271...well throw it right in the garbage it is never coming apart again.

Get the heat gun out and take them out. Will you risk breaking a bolt, maybe blister some paint, melt wiring if you don't shield it properly from the heat. Yes to all. But fasteners put in with 271 can be removed.

I myself am very wary where I put any loctite...it has its uses but not like service manuals would have you believe.

Welding is permanent...somewhat.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had a Ryobi weed eater that the TWO bolts kept loosening that bolts the cylinder to the block (2 stroke). It just takes a knats hair of being loose to lose the lower case seal-sucking air, leaning out the mix, etc.

Drilled the allan head bolts, safety wired, 1/4-20 SAE threads-aluminum block/cylinder. Those would loosen up just enough to lean out the idle mix (erratic idle).

Took the lazer temp gun to the block when really hot and it wasn't near 500F. (Not half of that).

A bunch of Red Loctite on the threads (super clean), tighten it down (Yamabond on the base gasket), NEVER HAD an issue after that... Always stayed tight...



Also, on the bike, had to replace the stator cover. Yamaha uses some SERIOUS Loctite on 3 small Torx head screws that hold the armature to the cover. Heat gun applied the raised part (within 1/4" of the bolt but applied to the aluminum cover) of the old cover, then attack the torx screws quickly, came out with little effort. Little enough to re-use the screws(head not damaged).

It went back together with red Loctite (per the shop manual) as those screws are INSIDE the engine and hold a major component from coming loose and destroying the engine..

[Chuckberg2]

Sorry about that last question, did not mean to start an uproar, I have Mariners Choice never seeze, I am going to go with that, right or wrong, should they loosen up, I will switch to Blue Locktight. I only use red on flywheel bolts, and I know there is a discussion about that out there also.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sorry about that last question, did not mean to start an uproar, I have Mariners Choice never seeze, I am going to go with that, right or wrong, should they loosen up, I will switch to Blue Locktight. I only use red on flywheel bolts, and I know there is a discussion about that out there also.

There's no up-roar... Typical tangent on most threads...

I think I'd go with what your using..

[Chuckberg2]

Another question on this, the O-Rings on the air Intake, they stayed in tact when i pulled apart a little perfect seal and re-use or should they be replaced?

[Chuckberg2]

thanks on the uproar reply, but got it, not an uproar, just a tangent.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't what the manual calls for but if their still in great shape, still sealing, no sIgns of cracking, etc, I'd re-use them..

Especially at $20.00 PER CYLINDER!!!


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...201/parts.html

[boscoe99]

Another question on this, the O-Rings on the air Intake, they stayed in tact when i pulled apart a little perfect seal and re-use or should they be replaced?

Another debatable item. Yamaha says one thing. Other folks say something different.

Do what you want to do. It is just an outboard motor.

Replace them (Yamaha OEM part or hardware store O ring), reuse them, loctite them, never seeze them, leave them out and use silicon sealant, just leave them out, etc.. Probably won't matter.

Did you stop by here to cause trouble?