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2000 C60TLRY Shift adjustment into neutral problem

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  • 2000 C60TLRY Shift adjustment into neutral problem

    Water pump rebuilt but I am having a issue that I can't solve. Getting neutral into center with linkage. I followed the Clymer's chapter 8 to a "T" several times. Other than finding out that their page 354 Ref. photo 33 is WRONG.

    RIGHT
    Turning the drive shaft in a clockwise direction turns the prop shaft in a clockwise direction in forward gear and against clockwise in reverse.

    WRONG
    Turning the drive shaft in a clockwise direction turns the prop shaft in a against clockwise direction in forward gear and a clockwise in reverse.


    Now that we got that out of the way. Are they wrong about any of this?

    Putting the shift lever into reverse and shift lever (lower unit) in reverse. My splines do not line up perfect so I have to move my reverse lever a "small" amount and then the lower unit stabs.

    Here is the problem. I get my linkage in neutral adjusted at the control. I put the center dot on the center post on the linkage for the shift shaft. I adjust the cable connector to the neutral post. Test prop and it is in forward gear. If I move the shift lever at the helm toward a reverse position I can get the lower unit to go into neutral, but then my shift lever is disengaged at the helm and will not manual throttle or even start because it if of the neutral kill.

    Why is my lower unit making me shift toward reverse to get into neutral? I can manually put the motor into reverse, neutral and forward but my neutral is about 3/4" off my center mark, toward reverse, on the mount on the motor.

    PLEASE HELP. I am tried of restabing this dang lower unit!~

  • #2
    One other thing, is there a spot that is neutral and a reverse and a forward, or is neutral just a spot between reverse and forward. I don't have a spot that is neutral, only if I rotate the shift shaft middle way but I have to hold it there or it will return to a reverse or forward in gear

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    • #3
      "oh my"....

      one way is to put the control (shifter) in forward and the put the lwr unit in forward and hold pressure on the prop in the reverse direction to keep the dog clutches locked...I cant count how many times guys have brought their boat to me with that very same issue...and I slap it together in a min. and they say they have been F-ing with all weekend...practice makes it a breeze (most times)...K&T

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      • #4
        Sweet! I will give this a try tonight after work.

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        • #5
          either the shift shaft is twisted or something in the lower is worn.
          the shift mechanism in the gear case has,or had, a positive detent for the N position.
          you should feel it when rotating the shift shaft.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
            either the shift shaft is twisted or something in the lower is worn.
            the shift mechanism in the gear case has,or had, a positive detent for the N position.
            you should feel it when rotating the shift shaft.
            Yep, looks like a tear down for me. I tried to pull the unit off and do the forward and tension reverse on the prop. Still have the same symptom.

            Rodbolt, if there is a dedicated "neutral" then I have a problem in the lower unit no doubt. I only have a reverse to forward and if I manually hold in the middle of these I have neutral;l when I let go it either goes to reverse or forward gear. I have no neutral all the way in a 360 + rotation. Is it suppose to let me go around and around. LOL

            Any advise other then pulling the shift shaft for inspection, what MIGHT be the issue or part to look at in the lower?

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            • #7
              do what I posted before

              put the control in forward,,,put lwr unit in forward a hold light pressure on prop in the reverse direction than forward.. that locks the shifter and dog clutchs..some times you will have to turn the prop a lil bit in the reverse direction to line the driveshaft spines with the bottom of crankshaft and a thin needle nose pliers to line up the shift rod hanging down to match with the lwr end shift rod.....I have done 1000's and if no N indent that's the easy way to do it...BTW pull spark plug off plugs and if you have a buddy remave flywheel cover and have him slowly turn the flywheel while "stapping" drive..and it dosnt need much turn !!! you will get it done !!! forget about the N gig...BTW almost all lwr units are done in this manner !!

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              • #8
                I do not think the shift shaft should turn 360.

                But have never tried it before, something doea not sound right

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                • #9
                  99yam

                  oops I missed that !! if the shift shaft is pushed down in the splines it shoud not do 360's...on some of the older merc's they can but I have not seen that on a yammy....? for sir rodbolt maybe ??? now I'm getting interested on this one !!!

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                  • #10
                    something broke.
                    the shift clutch is spring loaded and should hold in fwd,N and reverse.
                    the cam should not be able to rotate 360*.
                    I use the correct tool to shift it, I also have some bent lower shift shafts.
                    I find pliers can mangle the splines and make refitting impossible.

                    the ID of the propshaft has grooves for the spring loaded detent balls to ride in.
                    you should never have to rotate the flywheel or shift into any gear to reassemble the 60 hp lower case to the mid section.
                    if you do something is wrong.

                    the only time I shift into fwd on a rotating style shift lower yamaha is if the 5" extension is on studs.

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                    • #11
                      You know how we all hate to spend labor money - but looks like this is a job for H & H Marine here in Texas. I called Bennie last night and he said, "Do what!? Bring it over and let me look at it but sounds like you broke something." LOL

                      Bennie is a GREAT outboard mechanic and a friend. You got to love when a mechanic can tell you that you "broke something".

                      I will update later after we find out why neutral disappeared and how much labor money I gotta spend. $3 part and three hour break down and reassemble. :-)

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                      • #12
                        Here is the issue - Boats.net Parts 50, 47,45,46,40,41, 44

                        Part 50 and part 47 are worn. Part 47 is "rounded" not allowing your the end of your shift shaft to keep tension with part 50. All these $50 worth of parts, wobble and cause wear on part 40 and part 44.

                        Bottom line, get out about $250 in parts and another $200 in labor; or do it yourself if you know how.

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                        • #13
                          methinks you need another kemosabe,just based on the parts and description you last gave versus what the first was.

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