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  • Unforturelly I lose my employment

    Hi All,,, Hope someone can help I would like to remove the oil injection pump which stop working ,,I checked all the filters and I still am not getting oil to the carbs I would buy a new pump along with all new lines but Unforturelly I lose my employment after 15 years,, money is very tight right now when my employment improves I plan on replacing the pump but for now the family comes first,, I would hate to have the boat site so if the only way I can get back on the water for now is to premix so be it ,,,so if someone can give me a step by step on how to disconnect the pump along with all the alarms it would help for now,,, The motor is a 1989 200hp ETXF

  • #2
    I really kind of doubt its the pump.
    why do you think the pump failed?
    do you understand how this system works?
    it may be easier and cheaper to fix your setup rather than trying to premix.

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    • #3
      Hi rodbolt17 thanks for the reply ,,I hooked the motor up to a 6gal temp tank with a 50/1 mix starter the motor and pulled the oil hoses off at the carb to check for oil flow ,,i checked all 6 lines where they connect to the carbs and no oil flow to do the job right I THINK i need the pump $130 all new lines $30 and mis.. stuff I think the total would be around $200 which I don't have,,,,,, THANKS for your help
      Last edited by poengine33; 01-22-2011, 11:56 PM.

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      • #4
        I am thinking you did not properly test oil output and that pump has been NLA since the early 90's.
        while the oil lines wont change much the inline check valves have to be added.
        the mikuni replacement kit for the original kein pump is rather pricy but even the kien pump did not give many issues.\

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        • #5
          Thanks for the input ,,but forwhat ever reason there is no oil being pumped to the carbs.. i dont have the money not even a dime for parts ,,can you help me bypass the pump

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          • #6
            what is stamped on you oil pump

            i will send you one give me your address im in a really good mood this month

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            • #7
              Hi Aleutianwest,,First let me say THANK YOU,,, THANK YOU,,, THANK YOU,,for your offer but it just would not be right for me to accept a $130 pump with no way for me to return the favor...things are tight right now and I feel good that I will land employment before unemployment runs out,,, I will just run the boat on premix till that happens then when I get some extra $ go all over the motor to refresh the oil system ..I just need the step by step way to disable it till then...AGAIN THANK YOU FOR YOUR OFFER . I searched the internet and found nothing ,,So without begging If ANYONE knows how to bypass the oil injection,, your info would really be helpful.

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              • #8
                oil pump

                It would be a used one and i know it works i would not mess with the system if you can help it

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                • #9
                  PM, Ill try to pm ya back with a temprary fix.
                  I still say it costs NOTHING to PROPERLY test the oiling system.
                  at an idle the tubes just kinda blubber a small amount of oil at an idle.
                  thats why I dont think your pump quit.
                  FIRST sign of a failed pump output is a connecting rod hanging out of the crankcase.
                  no other warnings on a yamaha.
                  NO FLOW warnings in the precision blend yamaha motors.

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                  • #10
                    If the pump's not working, then it is essentially disabled already, so maybe just run premix in motor until you can test/check/repair/replace pump? Just an idea, but I'm not the expert on this. Good Luck!

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                    • #11
                      To disconnect the pump: Remove the pump. Take needle nose and remove the drive gear, Reinstall the pump. Make sure all the o-rings are in place. Remove all the tubing. Cap off the oil inlet nipples (6) on the intake manifold. Remove on-board tank but keep the float assy. Zip tie the float about 3/4 up the slide. Remove the on-board tank but keep the float assy. Zip tie the float the same way. Might have to play with where the float is zip tied to keep buzzers from going off. You should also run rig free to combat carbon. This is the ghetto way. Not sure what connectors to disconnect to completely eliminate the floats. This method just facks them out.
                      1999 Grady Sailfish SX225 OX66
                      1998 Grady Tigercat S200 lightening strike (totalled)

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                      • #12
                        Thanks rodbolt I will look for your pm on the file ,, and thanks tucker ,,,I did read somewhere on the internet about useing a paper clip to pump some wires to bypass the busser but the post was not very detailed ,,THANKS To ALL,, for your replys and if any others out there would like to reply thanks,, KEEP YOUR HEAD UP THINGS WILL GET BETTER

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                        • #13
                          tucker tucker tucker
                          nope.
                          to temporarily remove the oil injection.
                          remove the pump,remove the driven shaft, reinstall the pump.
                          make sure the remote and engine tanks are full.
                          premix and run.
                          how ever if you wish to remove the tanks do it.
                          then tie the white to black at the engine tank harness and remove the harness going to the remote tank.

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