Forgot to ask
Boats.net ship to Alaska?

One set is for tach and other is for tilt and trim in case you want to rig up another switch somewhere
Black = ground
Red = 12 +
yellow= key on power
Green = tach signal

Double red =12 + power
Double sky Blue = trim up
Double light green =trim down

Go and look at any later year Yamaha owner's manual and you will find information that describes the functionality of the gauge.

Owners Manuals | Yamaha Outboards

Yes, it is water resistant.

Yes, the cables will be long enough. Usually you will have to coil the extra wire length. The trim/oil cable that comes with the kit is 23 feet long.

Yes, boats.net ships to AK.

Here is diagram showing the connections etc.

So, I just need to buy a tach?
Wiring is in place.
Tach function only.?

Would be nice to have some alarm functions.
Would I have any alarm functions without the kit & new cable.
Above reply , I have wiring for a tach, (I assume it's tach only)

I noticed I have the water in fuel function on the engine.
Op manual (pg 26) I get Tach, Trip meter, hour meter, Oil level (not sure oil it's referring to , engine oil / fuel mix, I have 4 stroke)
Overheat alert.
possible the water separator & engine trouble alert.
Kit would give me all the above?

Thanks for the feed back.
My first boat with remote steering & electric start.
My old (manual everything), 40HP yamaha, prop, lasted many years.

Up grade for me to;
Big engine, jet , console & boat new to me.
Learning curve involved.
Run it in Big Su, Yetna rivers.
Remote, glacier fed, fast moving, shallow, muddy water conditions.

Will this plug into my existing wiring at the console?
Pro Series II Tach B

And give me
Tach, Trip meter, hour meter, Oil level (not sure oil it's referring to , engine oil / fuel mix, I have 4 stroke)
Overheat alert.
possible the water separator & engine trouble alert.

Found old thread:
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...l-th14718.html

Found one local.

6YR-W0035-E3-00
Multifunction LCD Tachometer Kit.

E3-00 replaces the E2-00 model for newer engines.

" Yamaha 6YR-W0035-E3-00 Tachometer Gauge Kit Multifunction for 2005 and Newer outboards.
This item replaces 6YR-W0035-E2-00."


Yamaha shop had one from a cancelled order.
They were shutting down marine side, gearing up for snow machines.
Got it for decent price & no shipping.

No instructions though.
Used instructions from above.

Tough part was finding the engine plug.
Engine plug is behind the main umbilical , behind the fuse box, starboard side.
Move the main remote control cable & connector over a little, plug connector is there, just below the starter, pull the water tight plug out of the 4 wire connector & plug the new cable in. (pic: screw driver touching plug)

Routed it thru the rubber grommet /engine access, tie wrapped to the existing cable bundle into the console.

Drilled 3-1/4" hole (Lowes had the right size ) in the console, pulled wires thru the hole, connected the wiring harnesses to the tach

Installed the tach & mounting bracket. Snugged it up . Put a dab of silicone on the hold down nuts.

Tested , only had tilt function usable now. Tilted up & down, the graph on the right side of the gauge responded up & down.

No liquid water on the surface of our lakes now , so next test will be in the spring.

(NOTE: a front mounted steering console on a 20" boat, you might need a longer wiring cable. I have about 18" to spare, center mounted console )

Any way to test the water temp & oil alarms ?

In reviewing your IPC (illustrated parts catalog) I see a Thermo Sensor and a oil pressure switch.

The thermo sensor is probably an analog, variable resistance type and the oil switch is just that, an open / close switch.

In your IPC see Electrical 3 and you can find these components and there location. The oil switch (item22), you could check with a test light or a continuity tester with the plug disconnected. I would test the switch to see if it either has continuity or is open circuit. Then we can assume that when oil pressure is present, it would be the opposite. (say if with the engine off, the switch is "NO" normally open. Then when oil pressure is present, it applies pressure to that switch and closes the contact, thus allowing electricity to flow through). It should be that way or opposite (normally closed and the oil pressure opens the circuit). After you ascertain how it works, you can either jumper or open the wire harness at that switch to simulate the action of the switch.

The thermo sensor (item 14) probably has an analog resistance range. If you have the MMM (manufacturers maintenance manual) it will give you a procedure to test that component. Probably connect a multimeter to read the ohm resistance as you heat it in water. The mmm will give you a specification range of resistance. Now this ssensor possibly has use in multiple systems asides from indicating. Its going to be connected to the computer and communicate to the engine the temperature to control say ignition timing, etc.

You could probably bench test this by carefully removing the sensor and heat it in water. I wouldn't just boil the thing with the wires connected. We're not making soup. Maybe fit it in the side of a bean can with just enough water to contact the tip, then heat the water can with a propane torch.

Need be said, you must use caution with open flame around fuel, plastic, wire insulation, etc. It might be slow, but consider using a heat gun.

Or if you ascertain the resistance value you could simulate the change in temperature by changing the resistance value across the wiring.

I am not a Yamaha technician. I work with similar control and indicating systems in aviation, automotive, and robotic submersibles. Take my information as a lesson reverse engineering. Perhaps someone can advise an exact procedure.

My engine has both a thermo sensor to indicate temperature to the CDI and two temp switches that are for the overheat alarm. If I bridge the wiring of either temp switch, I can simulate an overheat condition to test the system.

Good points

After sleeping on it.
The green wire is the tach signal.
Normal tach would hook to existing wires that are (were) at the console.
Own's manual says it has -- rpm, oil & water alarms.

My thinking now is the wire/s I hooked up from the engine is just
the tilt/trim signal. (test, the graph on the gauge moves when I tilt the engine, It works. )

Makes me "Assume" the existing factory tach signal green wire carries the oil/water alarm information to the tach. (i.e., a data signal )
& the functions should work (if the green wire is good from the engine to the tach.)

All this assuming,
makes the first run in the Spring (when we have liquid water again )
much anticipated

Feel free to shoot holes in my assumptions

We have a saying here in the states about the word "assume". To assume something can make an "ass" out of "u" and "me".

The green wire carries only the tachometer signal.

Look at the drawing that I posted. The wire harness that carries the trim signal is known as the trim/oil harness. This harness has four wires in it. It also carries oil signal information and over temperature information. In the case of a two stroke it indicates low oil quantity in either the remote or the main tank, and in the case of a four stroke it indicates low oil pressure.

Now to complicate matters, some Yamaha's use oil pressure switches and thermoswitches to activate the alarms. Some use oil pressure sensors or temperature sensors to activate alarms. Some motors, such as the F250, uses both thermoswitches and a thermosensor.

Yea
"Assume" can cause problems. LOL

My "best guess" is if the trim signal is working
the oil & water will work, (providing the sensors , whatever type my 2008 f115tjr has. At least it appears to be connected to the correct wiring connector. Not having the wiring diagram of the exact engine I have, tough
to test. I guess if I knew which wire was which, I could ground it & see if the alarm indicator at the tach triggered, providing the alarm system works without the engine running.
Computer engine con*****ers can have various program (software) features that are impossible to test, unless you have the test computer to plug into it .

"Best guess" is not as bad as ass-u&me, (at least recognized as a guess)

Either way, I'm better off now having a tach & alarms
("Assuming" they work when tested in the Spring)

On to the next step, pull the plugs & fogging . Then some TLC & excess grease removal .

Most Alaskan's are from "the states" LOL
WV hillbilly here

We call "You-all"
The lower 48