Originally posted by cpostis
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Spark Plug Torque--Not By Hand!
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostFor a copper gasket what should the condition of the metal be in for it to seal properly?
Does anyone take the time to heat treat (anneal) their copper gaskets to ensure they seal and transfer heat as they are supposed to?
Stuff on the surface might appear to be simple but in reality it is not always so. There is a lot more going on in a spark plug than simply making a spark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSRx3k8domw
That Kevin guy seems to know his "Old School" stuff!
Early in my career as an apprentice, I had to anneal large diameter copper air conditioning pipe (over 3") to bend at an odd angle. This was in a new temple with a $2 million dollar hardwood ceiling that had the have the pipe concealed in minimal space allowed. The old time journeyman should me how to do it. We had two men on the pipe with rosebud torches heating them up red hot then bending the pipe while it was red. Some bends kinked. I got reamed out by the journeyman. He got peed, off left me alone with another apprentice and we heated the pipe, quenched it and used a bottle jack and a rigged a "wood die" to the angle we needed. Not a kink in the remainder of the custom bends.
The journeyman bought us lunch and then a few beers after the day.
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For a copper gasket what should the condition of the metal be in for it to seal properly?
Does anyone take the time to heat treat (anneal) their copper gaskets to ensure they seal and transfer heat as they are supposed to?
Stuff on the surface might appear to be simple but in reality it is not always so. There is a lot more going on in a spark plug than simply making a spark.
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Seems like I remember oil seepage around plugs before on 2 strokes.
I do not believe you would need to worry about leaking compression thou
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
On NGK "crushable gaskets" are three stamped flats in the ID (others have four). These must be lined up in the spark plug threads properly in order to unthread from the plug. Here's a video that shows the gasket being removed and contains ferrous metal (click on image).
[IMG]15375246_1736673533326855_2560081111514349568_n by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]
I normally don't worry about the gasket, but if you remove and re-install several times, why not change the 15 cent gasket? You guys change your gear case drain screw gasket every time, don't you?
Now, do you guys know the most important role in a "crushable gasket"?
Heat transfer!
Take a gander at this.
https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-...and-heat-flow/
40% of heat removal from the cylinder to the head is through the "crushable gasket". It increases the surface area of the transfer area. I know you guys always install your plugs and gaskets oil free, clean and dry, right? The hotter the plug range the more critical the heat transfer area is.
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View PostThe question is whether or not anyone has ever had issues because of re-use?
I never have....
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I just put a magnet to an old Champion lawn mower spark plug with gasket (looks the same as pictured).
My magnet DOES GRAB gasket pulling it up. (against gravity)
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actually, the little NGK "cartoons" ARE referring to the standard gaskets
the copper washer and taper seat are separately addressed there.
I can believe its aluminum
certainly a complicated shape
I've always marveled that they get it on there, but it doesn't want to come off....
Last edited by fairdeal; 12-12-2016, 08:59 AM.
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Originally posted by cpostis View PostToo bad the gaskets in the diagram are copper, not the aluminum "crush" gaskets used on most plugs for Yamaha outboards.
The aluminum gaskets are avaiable from Champion @ 15 cents a piece.
https://www.sparkplugs.com/N678-Cham...p26421.aspx://
I don't believe the gaskets are aluminum(I may be wrong), but steel (appears the same finish as the plugs themselves).
With that said, I've replaced (98% small engines) with crush-able gaskets MANY times without an issue (by hand yet). I talking 3,600 RPM large 4 strokes (single cylinder, up to 10HP) to 8,000 RPM single 2 strokes.
Never had one leak, nor thought ANY about it...
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Originally posted by boscoe99 View PostYou are always making way too much sense.
The aluminum gaskets are avaiable from Champion @ 15 cents a piece.
https://www.sparkplugs.com/N678-Cham...p26421.aspx://
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Posthere's what HGK themselves have to say about installing "Reused" spark plugs:
if you are not using a torque wrench, the "tightening angle" is reduced
(presumably, because the gasket has already been "crushed")
The illustration shows a substantial reduction for the standard gasket.
Less of a reduction for the solid copper type gasket.
And naturally, no change for the gasket-less taper seat style plug.
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Originally posted by Jason2tpa View PostWe know the purpose of the crush ring is to provide a seal between head and plug. The even bigger question is, IS the seal compromised when mounting the plug for 2nd time and thereafter? And if so, is the amount of compression lost significant enough to worry about?
if you are not using a torque wrench, the "tightening angle" is reduced
(presumably, because the gasket has already been "crushed")
The illustration shows a substantial reduction for the standard gasket.
Less of a reduction for the solid copper type gasket.
And naturally, no change for the gasket-less taper seat style plug.
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We know the purpose of the crush ring is to provide a seal between head and plug. The even bigger question is, IS the seal compromised when mounting the plug for 2nd time and thereafter? And if so, is the amount of compression lost significant enough to worry about?
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postthe big question is where do you find replacements without buying new plugs?
I never have....
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the big question is where do you find replacements without buying new plugs?
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