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Where would the starter relay be located?

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  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
    dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor of electricity
    Its sure is!

    I don't want a conductor of electricity SHORTING OUT a connecting plug, (with many wires in it).

    Try it sometime, works great!

    As noted above, keeps the connectors from O2, corrosion, etc from corroding.
    Been using it for decades in that manner...

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    I use something called NoOxide grease
    It is what we used when putting DC battery banks together to protect connections from the fumes, acid, and moisture on top of batteries. it lasts a lot longer that just regular grease and is stiffer when cooled off( almost like a wax)

    Leave a comment:


  • scofflaw
    replied
    Google up do's and don'ts of dielectric grease. If all your trying to do is keep moisture and corrosion out, any marine grease can do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • 99yam40
    replied
    Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
    dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor of electricity
    the grease is there to keep the moisture and O2 out to slow down the corrosion. the metal to metal connection squeezes the grease out to make a good connection

    Leave a comment:


  • fairdeal
    replied
    Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
    dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor of electricity
    here we go.

    insert ROTFLMAO or possibly "headbanging" icon here....

    Leave a comment:


  • scofflaw
    replied
    dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor of electricity

    Leave a comment:


  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    BASIC'S always first. Alot of things can "look good" till you put a wrench on it, etc, on it and actually check...

    Folks say carbs "clean". Did you pull the jets out and look thru them? Ah no, The it ain't clean...

    Anyway, glad you found it without dropping a bunch of $ on parts you didn't need..


    Just a side note, ANY ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR, battery terminal, etc I take apart, it gets a coat of dielectric grease. Keeps later similar issues from happening later...

    Leave a comment:


  • pstephens46
    replied
    Ended up with a bad connection at the terminals at the back of boat in bilge area. Checked once, looked fine and then actually tested it. There you go...seems like we all try to over complicate these things...

    Leave a comment:


  • pstephens46
    replied
    Tempting to run all new battery wiring. I will start with the little 4ft run and see if there is an improvement. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • rodbolt17
    replied
    dude
    if your showing 9 volts between the switch lug and the positive battery terminal you just found most your problem
    fuggit about relays and crap.
    that relay wont work without the correct operating voltage which you aint got.
    fix your connections and go play.

    Leave a comment:


  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
    My F225 uses the same part - I saw it for the first time a few days ago -

    quite the project "burrowing down" to reach it...

    Very interesting part! -

    but clearly "no user serviceable parts inside"
    Mine wasn't hard to get to (once I knew where it was at). It did take me easily 15 minutes with an air powered disc grinder to get it apart (extremely stout!)

    BTW, With the cover off (covering the relay), you can simply (with a heavier gauge wire), "jumper" past the relay and activate the starter if need be. I now carry a short piece of heavy gauge wire (besides jumper cables) in the on board tool box...

    I also keep the shop manual on board(sealed up) and a PDF manual on the lap top.

    Leave a comment:


  • fairdeal
    replied
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
    I had a bad starter relay on mine...

    Replaced the unit, cut apart the old one (for confirmation). The solenoid to activate worked fine (thus the clicking), BUT the contacts were burnt up (piss poor connection), thus, no power to the starter:
    My F225 uses the same part - I saw it for the first time a few days ago -

    quite the project "burrowing down" to reach it...

    Very interesting part! -

    but clearly "no user serviceable parts inside"

    Leave a comment:


  • fairdeal
    replied
    Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
    Mean't to ask this one with last statement - There is a cable connecting the two neg terminals on my batteries. I have seen images on internet showing batteries connected like this and not. I am not sure why some setups would have the connection and some not?
    Some installations have a large "main ground bus" to which the negatives of both batteries are individually connected - which effectively connects the negatives of the batteries together.

    A cable directly from battery negative to battery negative is fine

    but there is an additional cable coming off one of the battery negatives
    to provide ground connection for all the non-motor electricals

    Leave a comment:


  • TownsendsFJR1300
    replied
    I had a bad starter relay on mine. Symptoms were simply a click, NO CRANK. Did it about 5 times before it started. It did NOT affect the trim & tilt. Agreed, bad connection somewhere, especially with loosing the trim..

    Replaced the unit, cut apart the old one (for confirmation). The solenoid to activate worked fine (thus the clicking), BUT the contacts were burnt up (piss poor connection), thus, no power to the starter:

    Leave a comment:


  • pstephens46
    replied
    Mean't to ask this one with last statement - There is a cable connecting the two neg terminals on my batteries. I have seen images on internet showing batteries connected like this and not. I am not sure why some setups would have the connection and some not?

    Leave a comment:

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