Spun hub at high RPM issue

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Update
I have not had any issues with the prop hub even when running the motor at WOT of 5300 rpm.
Not sure why the previous owner spun 3 hubs, but it’s not a problem for me.
sorry to post an issue that was a non-issue, but I do appreciate the helpful discussion here

Just found this when an old post popped up, post #8 and on should you need it in the future:

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...-on-lower-unit

[DGEXPLORATION]

Update
I have not had any issues with the prop hub even when running the motor at WOT of 5300 rpm.
Not sure why the previous owner spun 3 hubs, but it’s not a problem for me.
sorry to post an issue that was a non-issue, but I do appreciate the helpful discussion here

[Jason2tpa]

not sure why you think there are metal pressed in hubs.

I meant machine press-in rubber hub

[99yam40]

I would think 4 blades give it more surface area, so pitch would need to be less than a 3 blade.
Just like a larger diameter prop.

I never heard of too much prop causing the hubs to fail before, but maybe with these larger HP motors you have enough HP in the upper RPMs to do the damage.
lower RPM there is not enough hp developed to damage the hubs.
Just my thoughts

[zenoahphobic]

I wonder whether the four blades are also a factor in this? That is: there will be four not three “pulses” or “turbulence“ or “forces” on the ventilation plate coupled with disturbed water flowing off the hull transom. Is there an RPM limit lower for 4 blades compared to 3, and how does the pitch influence 4 blades c/f 3?

[zenoahphobic]

Hi, kids.. I haven't been here in yrs. This issue sounds like maybe WAY over proped..I sea that on bass boats all the time. I would switch to a MERC prop with a "Flow torque" hub. End of story. No hub to spin. Get a WOT reading and and change prop to dial in the correct Rpm. I change props on makes and models to mercury props all the time. Go to any boat race and all the boats are running MERCS.

Welcome back bajakeith.
Maybe Boltrod may return also.

[99yam40]

99 - I live in Willis TX, up on Lake Conroe.
i bought them boat from a friend who kept in Tiki Island on West Galveston

Well I knew

Kresta’s sounded familiar,
there use to be one here in Clute Tx
I confused Busha's in Bay City with kresta's for some reason

I could not find a Yamaha performance Bulletin on Majek to see what they normally ran

Finding someone that has already dialed in a rig like yours could save you the hassle of trying different props

[Keithbaja]

Gawd !! I hear this too often.. the boat manufacturer are fiberglass pro's. Not proplusion experts
not Electrical expert's. Not experienced in most boat issues at all !!
Hell, most don't own a boat.I get to rework and reprop many, many boats from the factory.
did not have a clue about. The factory is/are plastic boys
Not boat pro's. Grrr . And 95 percent or more marine tecs are a joke. Almost all new to me boats is cleanup after some shop with BIG signs.

[Keithbaja]

Hi, kids.. I haven't been here in yrs. This issue sounds like maybe WAY over proped..I sea that on bass boats all the time. I would switch to a MERC prop with a "Flow torque" hub. End of story. No hub to spin. Get a WOT reading and and change prop to dial in the correct Rpm. I change props on makes and models to mercury props all the time. Go to any boat race and all the boats are running MERCS.

[DGEXPLORATION]

99 - I live in Willis TX, up on Lake Conroe.
i bought them boat from a friend who kept in Tiki Island on West Galveston

[DGEXPLORATION]

The mechanic suggested I go to Mercury’s prop selector, and or call powertech custom prop.
I will likely call Majek, the boat maker, and Kresta’s Marine, who rigged it out.
i guess it doesn’t hurt to mark the hub, and not sure if Paul ever did. I am 100% convinced that we spun the hub twice in my presence, and I don’t doubt he did it a few other times on his own. The motor behaves so different, that it is obvious when you spin out, and a re-hub, or prop change will fix it immediately.

[99yam40]

Yes you know when you spin a rubber hub out.
can not get any speed, have to run at very low(idle) RPM to get back to dock.
I have done it a couple of times

I blamed it on digging mud/sand when getting up in shallow water over and over
finally gets tired of that

where are you located?

Kresta’s Marine sounds like Bay City Tx

[DGEXPLORATION]

The mechanic suggested I go to Mercury’s prop selector, and or call powertech custom prop.
I will likely call Majek, the boat maker, and Kresta’s Marine, who rigged it out.
i guess it doesn’t hurt to mark the hub, and not sure if Paul ever did. I am 100% convinced that we spun the hub twice in my presence, and I don’t doubt he did it a few other times on his own. The motor behaves so different, that it is obvious when you spin out, and a re-hub, or prop change will fix it immediately.

[Ferris11]

This thread explained the importance of the trim tab regarding the hub.
The last 2 replies were from Sequoiha and then Rodbolt

https://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...16691-tab-trim

From Sequoiha
06-09-2012, 07:16 PM
It serves two purposes, first it is a sacrificial anode. second it is a front end alignment of sorts,, typically if the boat pulls to the left you can adjust the tab in the direction of the pull, the water pressure on the tab during forward motion will push the engine back the other way. it was very useful on older cable steering systems with out feed back.
06-09-2012, 10:58 PM

From Rodbolt17
06-09-2012, 10:58 PM
actually 3 if on a v4 or v6, it also directs additional cooling water to the prop hub to help prevent hub failures.

[DennisG01]

Jack plate may be mounted correctly, but I'm not sure I completely agree with the mechanic's idea of it "not" overheating equaling the jack plate not being the problem. You may not have run it long enough to overheat since the prop started ventilating. Besides, as long as the water pickup is under water, you're still getting cooling water into the engine.

The fact that you can run at 4,200 leads one to believe that the engine is OK at a given height, but once you start running faster the anti-ventilation plate comes further out of the water since the boat is riding higher. Meaning, the anti-VENTILATION plate is no longer doing it's job. The anti-vent plate should, at most, be skimming just along the surface at full speed/plane. To see if the whole issue all long has been user error, lower the jack plate and/or trim down a bit and see if the issue goes away. You could also video it.

Swapping the anode for the water pickup plate sounds more like a band-aid than a fix.

It was brought up above, but never heard your answer... have you ever match marked the hub to completely verify it was/was not slipping?