starter, starter relay, T/T solenoid problems. Ground?

[panasonic]

do you mean that in a good way? Do you think Odyssey is a good choice? Not sure if I want to replace now or just wait to see if it holds up. Higher priced than others but it has lasted. Any thoughts or suggestions on other brands?

Yes I meant in a good way...glad you discovered the problem.

I asked about the voltage drop test results and didn't get from post #6 what they were. I was suspecting you still had corrosion in your main cables and that was still the problem.


No I don't have any suggestions on a battery brand.
I would not buy the most expensive out there because sometimes you are just paying for a name...nor would I buy a cheap one. Something to suit your needs and situation. If it is your only battery for starting then a good quality battery is a must.

If you are going to wait and see if it holds up, then maybe consider carrying a booster pack with you.

[zenoahphobic]

Although the photo of the battery is not very clear, I think I can see enough to suggest those posts are tarnished and a good brushing to brighten them up to reduce the resistance might be all that is needed.
Strange that they are so far from the posts. I have pulled a few batteries apart in the past (to recover lead to make sinkers), and maybe it will satisfy your as well as our curiosity, when the battery has finally expired, to see what the bridge under there is like. The battery will need to be drained (if environmentally acceptable these days) and neutralised with bicarbonate soda, to make it safe to crack the lid off.

[GLS062866]

do you mean that in a good way? Do you think Odyssey is a good choice? Not sure if I want to replace now or just wait to see if it holds up. Higher priced than others but it has lasted. Any thoughts or suggestions on other brands?

[panasonic]

panasonic see post #6. Since I changed to the post on the battery instead of the studs I have had no issues. I think that it is something inside the battery with the studs.

thanks,
GLS

I was just checking to be sure. Strange problem with that battery. Glad you got it sorted out.

[walleye1]

I always load test both, posts and studs.

[GLS062866]

panasonic see post #6. Since I changed to the post on the battery instead of the studs I have had no issues. I think that it is something inside the battery with the studs.

thanks,
GLS

[panasonic]

And how much voltage drop did you get?

[GLS062866]

yes sir. both cables tested good. I went from lug to lug on both cables.

[panasonic]

Did you try the voltage drop test on your main cables as shown in the diagram Fairdeal shared above? Post #3.

[GLS062866]

No they did not load test both sets. Only from the post each time. I learned something new. I am going to watch it close and make sure I always have my jumper pack with me. Thanks to everyone for their feedback.

GLS

[GLS062866]

update.....

Changed to my truck battery and still nothing. Slowly going up and down until it hit tilt and stops and very slight continual clicking when trying to start. cannot be the battery. So i got power pack back out and hit starter, starter relay, ground on starter, ground on painted bolt on engine, and ground directly on trim relay (which feeds ground to starter relay) and both t/t and starter worked. But happen then to noticed the ground from battery to starter was not tight all of the way. must not have tighten it up good after changing what seemed to be 100 combinations yesterday. Well tighten it and worked on old battery using post as in above picture. Now I am back thinking studs are not good but the post are on battery. The last failure was my caused by my oversight on not making sure ground to starter was tight.
Any thoughts on studs vs post? Ever heard on one going out and not the other? Battery seems strong as brand new turning starter and trim.
GLS

[GLS062866]

Well I though that I had something. I put battery on onboard charger and brought to another place. I was showing 12.57. That is what they showed also. The battery tested well twice at the same store today. So I came home and hooked it up with the old wires. Nothing. I then hooked it up with shorter wires directly from the battery to the starter relay and ground on starter. Nothing with trim or starter but clicks. I didn't have my power pack directly to the starter and it jumped with no problem. I then decided to try the positive directly to the starter. Nothing. The only difference was the battery was load tested on the post and not the stud that I was using to connect the battery. So I went to the store and got the connections to convert the post to the wingnut studs. Try it to the Post and it works great. Tried multiple times turning on and off and the trim up-and-down with no problems. So I assume there was a problem inside the battery with the stud connections. I then use that set up and hooked it to my original battery cables. Everything worked great. I went out this morning and a trim would barely go up and down like the battery was dead. It moves just very slowly. Starter would only continuously click but very low. I guess I'm going to try the battery out of my truck first didn't replace if it seems to do fine.
All of the wires had voltage tested good and the battery load tested fine. Any suggestions other than replacing the battery?

GLS

[GLS062866]

I did take it and they said it was good. I walked by a little earlier and trim worked up and down. Tried to start it and nothing but clicking. Then tried trim and nothing but clicks. I used a short jumper with alligator clips and went from negative post on battery straight to the negative post on trim solenoid which provides ground to starter relay. Then went straight from bullet connector that gives + power to starter relay to the end of the + battery cable that connects to starter relay. So I thought this should close relay for sure turn starter but nothing.

Yes I tested starter with a battery power back and it jumped up with no problem. I also attached the power pack to the battery thinking it might be weak but that didn’t help. Nothing but clicking. After thinking about it i connected it to the post on the battery and not the studs that have the cables connected to. Could the battery be messed up and not getting any power from the power pack?

I guess I am now going to take a battery out of truck that I know is good. Get 2 short cables and connect
as usual. I gues this way I can rule out existing battery and existing battery cables even though they seem to test good.

I was thinking of bringing battery to have checked again. The guy doing it had to go in twice asking questions so I am not sure he knew what he was doing. With all the testing and numbers could the battery actually be causing it all by itself?

thanks again,
GLS

[GLS062866]

not sure how i missed that. I did go to start when testing voltage but did not try with voltage drop. I just went out there and trim still works up and down for now. hit to see if it would turn over. Clicked about 3 times and then turned motor over. let go since i had no water hooked up. then waited a couple seconds tried it again and then just continious clicking. So i assume change in temp doing something to connection. Here are the voltage drop readings

+ battery lug at battery to + lug at starter relay, key to start = 0.015

- battery lug at battery to - lug on starter, key to start = 0.021

- battery lug at battery to ground screw on block, key to start = 0.021 (so does this mean starter is grounded to block okay?)

+ battery lug at battery to outgoing + terminal on starter relay , key on = 12.49 (i would expect this due to relay being not activated and not letting volts pass through correct?)
+ battery lug at battery to outgoing + terminal on starter relay , key to start = 3.59

I would lead toward starter relay but since what ever it is is effecting the trim also i am leaning toward a ground. But seems like all ground connections and wires have been checked.

Walleye1, You gave me a better idea on jumping battery ground to block ground. Since I don't have any 6 gauge on hand what if I made 2 short jumps from the - starter ground directly to both solenoids ground terminals? The - that supplies the relay has a ring terminal that jumps off of the - on down solenoid anyway. That way can use wire that I have since not much amps to operate relay and solenoids. The suggestion that you had was it a temporary way to check it or is it okay to operate it with that set up? Can I ground it from - post on starter directly to the grounding bolt that supplies solenoids and not relay on block being grounded by contact with starter housing? Does anything else pull enough amps to need such a large gauge wire?

thanks,
GLS

[boscoe99]

"you need to measure while you have the key turned to "start" (cranking/attempting to crank)"