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Power Trim/Tilt Died F250

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  • Power Trim/Tilt Died F250

    Hi Guys,

    Could use your advice.

    2006 Model F250 TXR Serial # 6P2X1004882

    My engine is stuck in the half up position.
    Neither the switch at the helm binnacle nor base of powerhead moves it.
    With the hood off, I can hear clicking when the up/down switch is triggered.
    I can also feel the relay vibrate when it clicks.

    I checked and I know the fluid level is good in the reservoir.

    Last time I raised the engine, the PTT motor sounded "strained". A sound I never heard before. Also, I have twins, and the two motors when raised - the starboard motor always came in second place to reach the top. This starboard motor is the one that's stuck in the half up position.

    So - I suppose it is either the PTT Relay or the electric PTT motor on the bracket.

    To check - I was thinking of removing the PTT Relay on my port engine and installing it on the Starboard engine. My hope is it is the relay (easy to install) but I fear it is the PTT electric motor on the bracket (Hard to remove and install).

    Your thoughts?
    Grady-White 330 Express

  • #2
    Put a volt meter on the output leads of the relay to see if the voltage heading to the T&T motor it getting thru

    Comment


    • #3
      Easier test ...undo the blue and green wire from the relay... touch them to a 12 v power source and a ground. Should be right there for you.

      Works it's a relay. No workie it's the t/t motor

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
        Easier test ...undo the blue and green wire from the relay... touch them to a 12 v power source and a ground. Should be right there for you.

        Works it's a relay. No workie it's the t/t motor
        exactly - just power the motor directly and find out.


        but since "the relay" is actually two completely separate coils/contacts
        if the problem is the same both up and down -
        its either a very bad power or ground connection at the relay
        or a bad motor.

        Brushes do eventually wear down to a nubbin.

        Comment


        • #5
          the binding up before stopping also sounds like motor problem

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys.

            It definitely turned out to be a faulty power/trim tilt motor. No issue with the relay.

            Will replace it and all should be good after that.

            I assume the aftermarket units (one third the price) are less reliable (?)
            Grady-White 330 Express

            Comment


            • #7
              If your handy, you could probably fix the one you have. Not a whole lot to it. Clean up the armature and housing and make sure the brushes have some life left to them and aren't sticking

              Comment


              • #8
                the original tilt/trim motor on my F225TXRD failed last October: brushes worn too far.

                So OK - I'll put in new brushes.

                While I was still reeling at the $84.75 list price per brush (x 4)

                I discovered the aluminum brush holder - the "bottom part of the motor" -

                was corroded and had split apart while removing the housing.


                So I went with a $130 eBay "aftermarket" motor.

                It works fine - but this is a photo from a couple of days ago -

                installed for barely six months:

                Comment


                • #9
                  After removing my PTT motor, I removed the cover and checked out the stator, etc.

                  Everything was black inside and it smelled burnt sort of. Not sure but I think it leaked water at the O ring and fried itself inside when under load. Not worth rebuilding IMHO.
                  Grady-White 330 Express

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I thought I posted about aftermarket motor I have.
                    same as Fairdeal paint and way they are made. rust very quickly

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You'll want to seal all joints on the aftermarket motor and also paint it with a rust inhibiting paint.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by HMBJack View Post
                        After removing my PTT motor, I removed the cover and checked out the stator, etc.

                        Everything was black inside and it smelled burnt sort of. Not sure but I think it leaked water at the O ring and fried itself inside when under load. Not worth rebuilding IMHO.
                        Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
                          Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.
                          Plus 1 ^^^.

                          Clean it up real good, inspect for salt water corrosion and then decide. You can test the armature, etc to make sure everything's good, (short of worn brushes).
                          Scott
                          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by scofflaw View Post
                            Nothing got fried. Black is good, probably brush dust. White would be corrosion from a water leak. Probably worth having a deeper look. OEM quality is much better than the aftermarket crap Have your local alternator/starter/electrical repair shop take a look at it. Brush holder assembly, 3 o rings, cleanup the parts and you could get out of this for short money.
                            when all of the copper is black, it is not normal or good

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Okay, thanks to your encouragement, I took a second look at my original PTT motor.

                              I took it all apart and cleaned it up real good with WD-40 and Brake Cleaner spray. Got all the black off. I noticed one of the 4 brushes was worn way down and a second down a bit. The last 2 brushes didn't look worn at all. Just under 1,300 hours BTW on my 2006 F250.

                              So after cleaning (including Q-Tips) and drying it real good, I put it all back together and tested it.

                              The darn thing came to life! Yay!!

                              So, while I purchased and will install a new one today, thanks to you boys, I now have a good back up! I will replace the 2 worn brushes with parts I ordered from this site (@$72 each - ouch!).

                              Lastly - when reassembling a PTT motor, do you put any dielectric grease on the contacts where the brushes touch the armature? And - should I spray anything inside or keep it DRY? Thanks,
                              Grady-White 330 Express

                              Comment

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