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  • #1

    Trim Gauge not responding

    Hello

    I just redid some wiring and gauges on my 2002 F115.

    I plugged in all wires (correct colors) and everything is working except the trim gauge response.

    When I raise and lower the trim, the meter always stays at the bottom.

    These are all the analog Yamaha gauges and looking to see where I can start trouble shooting?

    Anyone have some good points to start looking?
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The sender/sensor/switch may be sticking. I had to spray some silicone into mine and work the little arm back and forth to loosen it. It is also possible the bracket arm that forces the sender arm back and forth has broken off. The newer versions are made of steel. Tilt engine all the way up to reach in behind and work on it.

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    • #3
      make sure the sending /sensor is moving and not stuck/broke.

      and make sure it's output changes

      then make sure gauges are set to correct sender

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      • #4
        you might start by checking that- just by coincidence -
        your sender arm has not chosen this time to "get stuck" in the down position

        https://vid.me/DM4N

        as to electrical connection - I think its the pink wire in your 4 pin oil/trim harness...
        Last edited by fairdeal; 02-21-2017, 08:32 PM.

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        • #5
          Sorry to ask...dose anyone have a picture of where the sender arm is on a f115 2002?

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          • #6

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            • #7
              I agree with all responses. The location of the sender arm can get a lot of built up grease and debris, which over time can prevent the arm from smoothly moving up and down. Raise the engine to full tilt position, flip the tilt lever up and lower the engine down to lock. Then using the picture posted by boscoe, stick your head under the lower unit to eyeball the sender mechanism. Clean away any grease. Test the arm by moving it up and down, making sure it can move freely. It should naturally spring to up position.
              Jason
              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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              • #8
                Part #1 above, (at least on mine) WAS originally made of plastic which developed a hairline crack and rotated when it shouldn't. It was very hard to see but trimming the engine showed it was moving...

                The updated one is made of metal and won't move (that is if the issue isn't electrical)

                Plz post back what you find..
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                • #9
                  That dumb sender is $150 bucks so go easy with it. There is an opening in the side where you can almost see the spring inside. Spray lube into that area anf work it back and forth.

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                  • #10
                    We don't need no stinking T&T gauge. I use my rear view mirror.t

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                    • #11
                      Sender was broken

                      Thanks everyone for the leads on where to check.

                      I have been traveling for work and was able to look at this weekend.

                      The sender is broken, cracked right off.

                      boscoe99

                      Do you have a part number for this piece from your diagram?

                      Also, how easy is this to replace?

                      Any one have done this and can offer some tips on installing a new one?

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                      • #12
                        Have you given any thought to just letting it go? Although it looks to be relatively straight forward to fix. Mine only works when I move the arm by hand - when the engine moves it, the gauge doesn't register it. Weird, but it's true! I've gotten so used to just trimming by "feel" anyways, that I haven't missed not having the little blips on the dash gauge. Besides, it's not like it's a sterndrive - it's an OB so you can just rotate your head to see the engine.

                        Personally, I find it's not a very useful (in real life) gauge - more of a basic "guide" than anything else. As the conditions change, you'll have the engine at different trim levels and there's no "one best" trim level. The seat of your pants and the spray off the side of the boat are better "real" indicators, along with the fuel management.
                        2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                        1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                        • #13
                          Different opinion here about a trim gauge. I find it very useful and would not boat without one. Plus, I just don't like having stuff in and on my boat that does not work.

                          I first determine by trial and error the most efficient engine trim angle for my typical cruise RPM. I note the position of the needle on the trim dial. When I stop I trim the motor fully downward. When I am next getting onto plane I just trim the motor back to the spot on the dial that I know is where the engine trim needs to be. Done. No more feeling around or looking backwards.

                          Anyhow, the part number for the sender is 64E-83672-03-00. The part number for the updated trim cam is 99999-03830-00.

                          Hardest part about removing the sender is getting the screws to break free without the tip of the screw driver camming out. Not a difficult job IMO but it can be a bit fiddly as the British might say.

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                          • #14
                            You're right - and I agree - it's entirely an opinion based thing. I was only offering mine in case the OP hadn't really thought about it from that viewpoint. I find with different sea conditions and weight on board, that I'm never really at the EXACT same trim point. Sometimes I just count, in my head (because outloud would be strange...) - you sort of get a feel for it after a while.

                            The one that bugs me, though, is what you said about not having things that don't work. That's the one thing that keeps me thinking about fixing it!
                            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                            • #15
                              I have mine set so when fully trimmed down, the gauge shows 'fully trimmed" down.

                              I know at speed, with three bars showing at speed, it's optimum...


                              Dennis, did you check the arm / part the switch rubs against? Your sounds like its got a hairline crack and can't stand up against the switch.
                              Scott
                              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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