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60hp 2005 4 stroke / known faults

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  • #1

    60hp 2005 4 stroke / known faults

    Hello all, I'm looking to buy a boat with a Yamaha 60hp 4stroke 2005 model outboard. I believe it is a carb model. Apparently the engine misses at about 1900rpm when cold.... Does anybody know what could cause this?

    I guess my real question is are there any known faults with the 2005 60hp 4 stroke outboards? Any thing in particular I should be looking out for?

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    A 2005 model year F60 would be an F60TLRD. It has fuel injection. An F60TLRC (2004) would have carburetors.

    There are no particular known issues with any F60's that I am aware of. Biggest problem with this or any other model relates to fuel issues. Carburetor fuel issues are more problematic than fuel injection fuel issues.

    There are many things that could cause a miss, cold engine or hot engine. Need to know more about the motor you considering. Again, a carburetor would be more problematic than would fuel injection.

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    • #3
      Thanks boscoe99, I'm not sure what the engine numbers are, I'm viewing boat tomorrow. If I was to carry out a compression test on the outboard what figures would be acceptable and what should they be when new?

      Regards
      Campbell

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Kamikazio View Post
        Thanks boscoe99, I'm not sure what the engine numbers are, I'm viewing boat tomorrow. If I was to carry out a compression test on the outboard what figures would be acceptable and what should they be when new?

        Regards
        Campbell
        Per the Yamaha service manual minimum reference compression pressure is 140 psi. Engine hot, all plugs removed, throttle wide open, starter motor operated until pressure stops rising. On a 68 degree F day.

        I suspect that you will find the compression pressure to be higher.

        Someone may come along shortly to say that a direct compression test is similar to teats on a boar hog. Yamaha apparently does not think so.

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        • #5
          Besides the above, IF the engine is on a hull, it'd be worth your time to do a sea trial, especially with the mis-fire...

          If the engine's been sitting for awhile and the carbs (IF equipped) were not drained or stored with fuel stabilizer, they'll likely need cleaning..


          Post #24 if out-sourcing the clean/rebuild: http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...h27115-p2.html If your mechanically inclined, familiar with carbs, you can clean them yourself..
          Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 07-29-2016, 07:34 PM.
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Does it sound like it may just be that the carbs need balanced? Or could it signal something more sinister?

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            • #7
              Could be that, could be about anything.

              Can you Sea trial it? If it runs at WOT and most every where in the RPM range, without issue, I'd be less concerned about it.

              Might be worth your while to find a TRUSTED, knowledgeable mechanic to peek at it before purchasing. It could save you a bunch of $ IF there are major issues not found until after the sale..

              If possible and time allows, post a video here of it running / misfiring, etc.

              That's a bunch easier for us on the other side of the screen..

              Good luck
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #8
                yep
                a compression test on that motor is a teat on a boar hog.
                it wont pick up minor(that can turn major) leaks on intake/ex valves nor sticking/stuck rings due to carbon build up.

                so why bother??????
                a leakdown test is FASTER and more accurate way to test cylinder sealing.

                hire a professional to inspect the engine, look for a Yamaha dealer with a master tech.

                much better to know what your buying before you buy it.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                  yep
                  a compression test on that motor is a teat on a boar hog.
                  it wont pick up minor(that can turn major) leaks on intake/ex valves nor sticking/stuck rings due to carbon build up.

                  so why bother??????
                  a leakdown test is FASTER and more accurate way to test cylinder sealing.

                  hire a professional to inspect the engine, look for a Yamaha dealer with a master tech.

                  much better to know what your buying before you buy it.
                  Have you notified Yamaha so that they can update their service data?

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Yamaha does not care.
                    most have very limited actual field service.
                    I know of one tech rep with NO actual field experience and it took him 2 yrs and 3 tries to pass a master tech exam. all the while he worked at the training facility in Kennasaw GA.
                    on the other hand I have been doing this for a proffesion since I was 15.
                    I am now 55.

                    I did an F115 last week that was making oil.
                    the mobile tech down in hatteras actually wrote the compression test numbers on the cam cover.
                    all within 10 PSI and all above 140.

                    my leakdown test showed all above 55%.

                    3qts of gas mixed with 1/2 qt of Yamaha internal engione cleaner later and all leakdown numbers were less than 10%.
                    problem was stuck rings.
                    a leakdown test found it while a compression test missed it entirely.

                    with a leak down test being faster ($$$$$$$) and MORE accurate why bother with compression ?????????
                    answer me that O Yamaha guru????.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      I say that both tests have value.

                      0% leak down won't guarantee there is not problem. A perfect compression test won't guarantee there is not a problem.

                      A leak down test has value. A direct compression test has value. Each in its own way.

                      Teats on a boar hog have no value. That we might agree upon.

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                      • #12
                        but which compression tester is more accurate.
                        the 200 dollar snap on kit or the 29 dollar harbor freight one?

                        while 0% is technically impossible I have seen it on occasion. I attribute it to the fact that the test equipment isn't made for that minute of leakage.
                        but leak it must.

                        but time is money.
                        why run two tests?

                        tell me one issue where a compression test is more accurate than a leakage?
                        also why is it that most manufactures wont give specific numbers on a compression test but will publish leakage rates?

                        on a V6 you have to move the tester 6 times and go from the motor to the console and crank it.

                        a leakdown still requires moving the tester 6 times however I simply find TDC compression stroke then rotate the flywheel 60* for 2 revolutions and simply follow the fireing order.

                        and it does not rely on a semi dead cranking battery .
                        Yamaha actually says if a problem is suspected during the compression test to do a leakdown.
                        why waste my time and my customers beverage money?

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the comments gents. I viewed the engine today and the code on it is ft60bet. Would I be right in thinking the "B" represents the year as being 2003?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Kamikazio View Post
                            Thanks for the comments gents. I viewed the engine today and the code on it is ft60bet. Would I be right in thinking the "B" represents the year as being 2003?
                            Not necessarily. What is the complete engine ID? Did you write that down? Should begin with 68S L and then some numbers.

                            Not sold here in the USA but an equivalent is.

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                            • #15
                              The plate reads:

                              FT60BET
                              68S L 1003566
                              N

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