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Having trouble removing the flywheel on my 3 cyl 50 hp, used a good puller, just seems to be putting a lot of strain on it. Going to try again today after just a touch of heat and penetrating spray last night. Followed the manual and gave it a light smack with a hammer, with no luck
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They can be stubborn. Crank the puller harder than you might think necessary, then tap on top of puller with a 5 pound sledge. It will come off. -
I actually used an impact wrench to tighten the puller bolt. Gets it tighten than by hand and also makes it easier to keep the engine from rotating.Comment
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Thank you, I just was unwilling to keep cranking on it, want to find some longer bolts today just to be safe, but having trouble finding the 8-1.25 metric anywhere that are long.Comment
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I use the head bolts from scrap motors.
there is a big difference between a sound rap and pounding.
remember that lower ball bearing wont tolerate pounding.Comment
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Thanks Rodbolt, I scorched #1 cylinder yesterday, just trying to get it apart to see how bad things are. If the cylinder is able to be honed/bored I think I'm going to just buy a redone crank assembly because of the age of the motor. Just a little intimidated because I never did an outboard before, but it seems pretty straight forward so plan on a lot of question!
Thanks for the info everyoneComment
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make careful diagrams of the oil lines and the bleed/reciculation line locations.
the manual isn't very clear sometimes.
I usually send my built up cranks to Carolina Machine in Wilmington NC(formerly Ackermann marine).
they can also bore blocks.
most automotive shops cant bore a two stroke block correctly.Comment
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Amen on the pictures and diagrams, spent more time doing note than actual tear down! I didn't look into the machining or crank that far yet, but what would be special about the 2 stroke in the hone/bore process that a good machine shop would have troubles with? Would rebuild of my existing crank be more cost effective than buying a pre done assembly? Is there a quality issue to be conceded about with pre done units? Sorry for so many question, but I'm a sponge today just absorbing infoComment
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once bored the ports have to be chamfered.
automotive stuff typically is not as they don't have intake and ex ports.
this chamfering is typically done by hand with a die grinder.
to much chamfer and it breaks rings as the pass.
not enough chamfer and the rings grab the sharp edge and break .
as far as the crank. I cant answer as I have never purchased one, I send mine out.Comment
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Thank you, I will be sure to call those places!Comment
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Be sure to not run the bolts too far through the flywheel, they might hit and damage something under it.
I put strain on the puller , put a little heat on the flywheel around the shaft, and then tapped the puller bolt and mine came off.
Getting your crank redone should be about $435.
I am sure they just make sure yours is a good core and ship you one they have already done.
They shipped one to me the same day they received mine.
I believe they told me a block was around $400.
New blocks and crank assemblies are expensive.
The place Rod mentioned was the only place I found that did this crank work, but that does not mean there are not other places around. Good luck finding them if they can be foundComment
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99yam40 *** I wish I would have looked an hour sooner..... I lightly hit the raps of wire with the bottom of the bolt
but if that's the only problem thru this it will be ok!
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So this is what I was welcomed to after tearing it all down! Any opinions!Last edited by tweekster; 05-20-2015, 08:04 PM.Comment
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My opinion.... Fix the lean burn on that cylinder, or get ready for another rebuild.Comment
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How much are you willing to spend to fix this thing?
Did that wrist pin/bearing have the slop or the bearing on crank
Might check with that machine shop to see if they sell rebuilt power head or see what all they charge to do the work on yours.
Crank, cylinder rebore/hone, new pistons and rings, gasket set at least is neededComment
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