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  • #1

    Ordering Shop Manuals - Tradebit vs Factory versions?

    I'm getting ready to attempt repairing the lower unit gear case seals on my 1989 Yamaha B90TLRW so I'm looking to order the shop manual. I see Tradebit offers a relatively cheap download https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....rt-1-2-service for under $10 but wondering if it's just crap and I should order the paper / factory version LIT-18616-01-82 YAMAHA 60,70,75,90W SERVICE for $63 and wait a week for it.

    Are they the same / similar / or is there a big difference?
    Last edited by Fish Nut; 11-21-2014, 01:49 PM.
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  • #2
    The factory shop manual, (IMO) is geared towards someone pretty well versed mechanically to start with.

    I don't know how the other download manual, if its more basic, more detailed...
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #3
      They are definitely not the same. If they are, then stolen Yamaha data is being offered.

      Yamaha makes its manuals available only in hard copy form through its dealer network or via YAMAHA MANUAL STORE.

      IMO the Yamaha service manuals are pretty pathetic. Don't be expecting step by step instructions that address removal and re-installation of parts because it won't be there.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
        IMO the Yamaha service manuals are pretty pathetic. Don't be expecting step by step instructions that address removal and re-installation of parts because it won't be there.
        Interesting, advice I've received from others is it does have that kind of detail so if it's simply parts diagrams and schematics I can get those online. Perhaps I'll download one of the knock offs to see what it looks like and if it's really just crap I'll write off the $13.99 and call it a lesson.

        I'm not a mechanic but I usually fix more than I break... Earlier this summer I replaced the upper seal when I rebuilt the water pump and that was fairly easy but after reviewing the YouTube tutorials it looked like the lower seal is a little more tricky so I decided to wait until the end of the season when I had more time.

        The guy in the video drilled several 1/8" holes in the seal and then screwed in long machine screws to which he attached a reverse hammer and then alternated between them until it came out. Is that the preferred method of is there a better approach or tool for the job?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Fish Nut View Post
          The guy in the video drilled several 1/8" holes in the seal and then screwed in long machine screws to which he attached a reverse hammer and then alternated between them until it came out. Is that the preferred method of is there a better approach or tool for the job?
          I've seen that video and yes you can do it that way.

          Is it the preferred method, NO... Should you nick the shaft, your screwed...

          If your real careful and take your time, as you saw, it can be done.
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Okay I'll bite, what is the preferred method and please don't say bring it to a dealer That guy in the video holding his drill bit steady with a box wrench was almost funny but not so funny if I nick the shaft so that's why I ask.

            Given this is a fairly common repair I figured there'd be more DIY / how-to on the web so please let me know if anyone has any good pointers. I own two outboards and my brother owns three so I don't mind purchasing the right tool knowing it'll pay for itself fairly quickly.

            In the meantime I'll read the books and do some more research before I get into it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Fish Nut View Post
              Interesting, advice I've received from others is it does have that kind of detail so if it's simply parts diagrams and schematics I can get those online. Perhaps I'll download one of the knock offs to see what it looks like and if it's really just crap I'll write off the $13.99 and call it a lesson.
              I guess that it depends upon what ones expectations are.

              I came out of aviation where mechanics are very well trained. If not so, you can't be working on the stuff. Interesting enough, the service manuals for airplanes are so detailed that even a cave man can follow them.

              Mercury Manuals are pretty good. IMO, Yamaha manuals leave a lot to be desired.

              Yes I understand the difference between screwing up an outboard motor and an airplane.

              A B90TLRW is a 1998 model year motor by the way and not a 1989 model year motor. Make sure that you get the right manual.

              The Yamaha way is to pull the bearing carrier first. Then, remove the propeller shaft from the bearing carrier. Then, remove the bearing and the seals from the bearing carrier. Reverse the process for installation. The use of screws are not mentioned.

              Now backyardigans have many different ways of performing repairs. Just before they screw the pooch and have to take it to a dealer/mechanic.
              Last edited by boscoe99; 11-21-2014, 07:15 PM.

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              • #8
                Good catch on the year, the boat is an 89 and the engine is a 98 plus I'm dyslexic...

                I appreciate that detail which explains why someone would want to cut corners and not pull the shaft and also why is such an expensive job. If the manual gives enough detail I may attempt pulling the shaft.

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                • #9
                  with the proper tools anything is possible.
                  Yamaha manual does tell you the proper tools/equipment needed

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                  • #10
                    to start with machine screws wont work at all.
                    you use self tapping sheet metal screws.

                    then once you scar the shaft or bugger up the carrier bore you take it to a real tech and it costs about double.

                    can it be done your way? yep I have seen a few success stories.
                    I have also replaced shafts and carriers due to the attempt.

                    if salt water used the Yamaha manual makes no mention of how to cut out the spanner nut nor use oxy/acetylyne to remove the carrier.

                    years ago OMC made a tool for removing the propshaft seals without removing the carrier.
                    you may get a local machine shop to make one up for you.
                    I typically strip the case and replace all seals and orings.
                    barring corrosion it can typically be done in about 3 hours.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
                      Mercury Manuals are pretty good. IMO, Yamaha manuals leave a lot to be desired.
                      Agree!!! YAMAHA SM are very poor for backyardigans like me

                      Thats why I use Mercury SM that is far away better for my F100

                      YAMAHA SM are made for tech's

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                      • #12
                        if you think Yamaha manuals are sparse you should have tried Nissan/tohatsu, Volvo or Suzuki.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                          if you think Yamaha manuals are sparse you should have tried Nissan/tohatsu, Volvo or Suzuki.
                          I was going to say what is it with the Japanese but then you added Volvo to the mix.

                          Seems that where Yamaha and Mercury shared motors that Yamaha would have picked up and used Mercury's data instead of their own. Maybe the "not invented here" syndrome caused them to think that anyone else's stuff is inferior to their own. Even when this is not the case.

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