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  • Rodbolt(air adjustment)

    225tlrs
    On an earlier post I asked you:
    #1: Many years ago on the other site you said that my motor liked to run a bit rich. The manual says 1 1/8 turns but as I remember you said 5/8 or 3/4, I can't remember. What should I set them?
    #2: My digital tach gauge bounces around so I can not get a true reading when trying to dial in the carbs.
    #3: How important is this setting of the air screws.

  • #2
    liker I have tried to splain.
    you simply DONT dial in those carbs.
    either all is correct or it wont idle right.
    what part of the equasion your motor is missing YOU have to find.
    on your 94 225 the spec is 1 1/8 out from lightly seated.
    if everything else is correct this will allow a stable out of gear idle at about 750 and in gear *****ing at about 600 RPM.
    if it wont its NOT the adjustment screws is something isn't right.

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    • #3
      Thanks for answering my question????
      Did you read???
      Last edited by mygrady1; 07-27-2014, 06:28 PM. Reason: adiition

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      • #4
        the setting is model year dependant, the 94-95 2.6L is 1 1/8, the 94-95 3.1L is 5/8ths.
        depends on if its a 225 TLRS or a 225 TXRS.
        in 92-95 Yamaha made the 20" 2.6L carbed as the 225TLRS, they also made a 225 HP 25" 3.1L with six carbs designated the 225TXRS.

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        • #5
          ok: 225TLRS what's my setting?
          Is there a way to hook up an analog tach/ dwell meter to my motor?
          Thanks

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          • #6
            your TLRS is a 2.6 L carbed that sets at 1 1/8ths turns out from lightly seated.
            can you put an aanalog tach on it?
            yep but why I don't know.
            can you put a dwell meter on it??????
            not that I am aware of as dwell ONLY refers to the amount of dwell time the points are closed,hence the term dwell.
            as Yamaha never imported a 225 that used points it has no dwell time.
            I don't know what your trying to do but if the crank rings are sealing,the piston rings are sealing,the recirc check valves are working,the fuel pumps,including the enrichment pump,are working and not leaking,the carbs are clean and no bowl or intake leaks and the reeds seal. it usually runs well.

            everything mechanical MUST work as designed BEFORE you start blaming the ECU.
            most ECU's I have sold in the past 15 years the people now own a spare ECU.

            its a basic two stroke with rudimentary electronic engine controls.

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            • #7
              I was trying to explain what type of meter that I had. I 'm sure you had one of these in the glory years. I'm sure that an old fart like you/me remembers.

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              • #8
                I actually saw my dwell meter a few months back.
                could not tell you where it actually is now.
                haven't used it in at least 15 yrs.
                not much has been made with points in it since the late 80"s.
                so over the years the testing and test equipment has changed.

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                • #9
                  yep, but it would measure rpm on 6&8 cyl motors. So why not on my motor?

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                  • #10
                    cause your motor doesn't have POINTS and your motor has 6 ign coils instead of 1.
                    dwell time was a time in degrees the points were closed.
                    this was coil saturation time.
                    when the points were closed current flowed through the primary windings,through the point contacts to ground.
                    when the points suddenly snapped open current is SHUT OFF and the magnetic field collapsed and a large voltage induced in the secondary windings.
                    the condenser simply absorbed the initial voltage spike from the contact opening to prevent arcing acrossed the points as they opened.

                    so other than secondary ign voltage is made by collapsing a magnetic field your Yamaha and granny's old chevy share absolutely nothing in common.

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