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Shifter in neutral. Trim tab removed. Long bolt under trim tab removed and 6 bolts all removed. Lower unit will not budge. Some space at the trailing edge side but front edge moves 1-2mm only. Boat has 2 engines, other one was easy, straight forward. Is it just stuck and needs to be wedged out? Thanks in advance. Andrew.
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yep, and pray the shaft splines are not rusted together.
its part of why the maint spec says every 200 hours OR once per year. -
It has been done within the last 200hrs; inspected, re-greased installed really easy - no issues at all. First time I've experienced issues dropping the leg though. Any tips on best way to proceed? Thanks again. AndrewComment
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beating on it will more than likely just bend up the aluminum.
wedges would be my thoughts, but hard to get in there if the gap in smallComment
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If there's any up and down play what so ever, I would exploit that and jiggle the LU up and down gently, hopefully breaking it loose.
I don't know how or if you can spray any liquid wrench up in that area of the splines, it certainly can't hurt...
Good luck..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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I've seen this problem with the F150 more than once.I found that the bushing just above the salt water pump ( in the engines mid-section housing)gets stuck. Try to spray some PB Blaster or Wd40 down the drive shaft.You can just see the output shaft coming out of the power-head if you look at the very top of the engines cowlings, just aft of where the steering tiller bolts to the engine. Let the fluid soak in there overnight,then try to drop the lower unit with a little force.Gently tapping the cavitation plate on the gear-case with a block of 4x4 or 2x4 I found works to knock it free.The offending bushing may need to be replaced before you put the lower unit back on. If it doesnt break free, the splines on the drive shaft may be stuck in the crankshaft....Comment
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If you end up going the wedge direction, make several small wooden ones out of about a 3/8 board, pointed at the ends with a very gradual taper....tap several all around lightly with a small hammer, working your way around....leave lower unit overnight with wedges tightly in place....tap more in morning....hopefully it'll come apart for you....I've heard that too much grease on the top of the driveshaft can cause a "suction" effect at the splines at removal time....Comment
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I know that bushing will squeek (after awhile) if you DON'T use Yamaha waterproof marine grease. Been there, done that...
Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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DO NOT hit the cavitation plate with ANYTHING.
unless of course your on good terms with your friendly welding shop.
if you must hit it , use a dead blow rubber type hammer and smack it about 3" aft of the leading edge about inline with the water pickups.
that's the thickest part of the case.
wont be the first plate I ever had welded back on that the customer said I did not hit it that hard.Comment
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Any updates?Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXRComment
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