and I hate machinists that cant even identify parts they are complaing about.
the only solinoid on the F or T 9.9 until the 2010 run was the starter relay, some call it a solinoid.
your complaing about a simple heated wax pellet eectrothermal valve.

Take off shoe and insert in big mouth

You must not know the first thing about the electric choke. The choke is a electromagnet that when power is applied it lifts a needle that is suppose to enrich the fuel mixture. This is the main problem adding fuel this way has been tried before by cadillac and failed. The very best way to choke a non fuel injected motor is by restricting air flow thus increase fuel to air ratio's.
I also spent the first ten years working as a mechanic so I think I may have some knowledge beyond yourself. However I am sure your going to tell me how I don't have any idea what I'am talking about. I would not say you can't get this to work but from year to year you will be paying to have this carb problem fixed. The plain fact is that with todays fuels are not the stable and add to a problematic choke. The proof is in the starting choke the old way and start with the first turn of the key. The other option is pump the throttle 7-8 times sometime it will catch and die and start over again until you can get it to idle. The wear and tear on the starter and battery in my opinion just it not worth it. If you like I can email you a video of the process and what the difference it made. However I hate engineers who try to reinvent the wheel! I hope this information helps you to understand how thing work, let me guess your a marine mechanic as well.

electromagnet on an F 9.9?
wrong simply wrong.
its an alternator powered elecrothermal valve that if you fix/clean the carb correctly works very well.
sorry you could not hack it repairing autos.\
I did, I also repaired C I W S systems for the gray canoe club for some years before I went back to the marine side.
I am also one of 210 yamaha master technicians.
got my master tech certificate first try in 2006.
3rd test Yamaha ever gave for it.
thats why there are no buttons to push nor chokes to pull.
it either works or the system is simply broke but very easy to correctly repair.
if you know what your doing and how the system works.

Look at the link

The model I fixed is a T9.9 ELRX go look at part number 23 at the link below, this is the solenoid they call starter set p/n 6g8-1410a-01-00. You may not have had the knowledge of this style carb used from 1994-2005 which do use this solenoid or if you like the starter set. If you go to this link and click on part 23 it will open a new window showing all model years using this part. I hope this will clear up any confusion you are still having. If any one is wondering if this will fix my 9.9 go to the link and click on part 23 and look for your year and model.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TOR/parts.html

6G8-1410A-01-00 YAMAHA STARTER SET $78.45

your the one with the lack of knowledge.
your not bright enough to tell the difference between a solinoid and an elector-thermal valve.
lemme splain on it.
a solinoid is a high current switch that can be operated with a low voltage low current signal.
typically two styles, grounded base and ungrounded base.
grounded base will have 3 wires ungrounded base will have 4.
a solinoid contains a coil of wire that when energized pulls a contacor up or down to make contact with the load device.

an electro-thermal valve is a heated wax pellet device.
apply a voltage(current path) and the heating element heats the wax at a known rate.
same as most coolent and air temp sensors and overheat switchs work.
as the wax expands at a known rate the plunger moves.
on overheat and air temp sensors it moves a wiper against a potentiometer creating a variable resistor.

the T9.9ELRX uses an electro-thermal valve just like ALL the US market carbed F motors from about 1998,1999.

closest thing to a solinoid your T9.9ELRX has under the hood is the starter relay.

I'm tired of responding to you

Please go to the link and then look at the parts number i provided. This is a electromagnet when power is applied it pulls a needle up to let fuel flow. The best thing you could do is call your local yamaha dealer to discuss how things work. We are talking about apples and oranges and I not going to spend any more time debating with you on this issue. I have yamaha dealer's that know what I'am talking about and are interested in seeing the final product! Now why would they be interested in this fix if I was tell a bunch of bull! I would also like to note the part you are talking about would turn the solenoid on and off however i could care less what turns it on and off. I only care that the design is good in design but bad in real world. Oh and by the way that is considered a solenoid that cut off fuel it could be used as well to cut off air as well. Oh just for your reference the definition of a solenoid.

A solenoid is a coil of insulated or enameled wire wound on a rod-shaped form made of solid iron, solid steel, or powdered iron. Devices of this kind can be used as electromagnets, as inductors in electronic circuits, and as miniature wireless receiving antennas.

In a solenoid, the core material

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is ferromagnetic, meaning that it concentrates magnetic lines of flux. This increases the inductance of the coil far beyond the inductance obtainable with an air-core coil of the same dimensions and the same number of turns. When current flows in the coil, most of the resulting magnetic flux exists within the core material. Some flux appears outside the coil near the ends of the core; a small amount of flux also appears outside the coil and off to the side.

A solenoid chime is wound on a cylindrical, hollow, plastic or phenolic form with a movable, solid iron or steel core. The core can travel in and out of the coil along its axis. The coil is oriented vertically; the core normally rests somewhat below the coil center. When a current pulse is applied to the coil, the magnetic field pulls the core forcefully upward. Inertia carries the core above the center of the coil, where the core strikes a piece of metal similar to a xylophone bell, causing a loud "ding".

Thanks for your interest and have a nice day.
p.s I would'nt write back as i could care less what you have to say!

snas,
Please stop wasting your time trying to convince us you have a clue about how the prime start system works on your outboard. If you have some one willing to sink money into your hair brained money scam then go get a patent on it and stop trying to sell junk on this site

99yam40
some idiots simply never learn.
you could lead them to a water trough and they will die of thirst.

I am glad you have dealers that are as stupid as you, makes us real techs shine.

all I can do is sit here and laugh at the stupidity.
however for anyone that reads this thread, NO, there are NO ABSOLUTLY NONE, nothing that resembles any solinoid,relay or any magnetic crapola involved with the enrichment system on the f or t 9.9 since at least 1998.

the electro-thermal valve on the starter set is a heated wax pellet device powered by a coil under the flywheel.

I love the internet, makes me look like Einstien

caint beleives I got no replyums.
must have just needed an alternator.

Problems with ETV on a T9.9 engine

I read your debate and I tried sending you a private message but I'm new to this forum and I don't think my message went out.

I'm trying to address my question to Rodbolt 17. I agree with your position on this issue.

I'm trying to determine if my ETV is working correctly. It's brand new and it doesn't move when I connect it to 12VDC. I may have received the wrong part because the plunger seems to be too long. What is the correct length of the plunger (from the base of the ETV to the tip of the needle)?

Hard to believe you spent money on parts without getting a Service manual to tell you how to test things and the specs.

Best to follow the advice on the forum and start a new thread on you motor and questions you have instead of posting on an old dead thread.

Bob

I have a 9.9 Yamaha and on a previous thread Scott says he had the same hard starting problem. He said he designed a manual choke and I would be interested in purchasing one from him as I would be interested in you manual choke you designed. I'm a retired machinist but have no machine tools other than basic electric hand tools and taps etc. No sense redesigning the wheel so why not use your design. Please give me a price quote and send it to " rprong33@yahoo.com ". Thanks, Bob
P.S. Did you ever figure out how to electrically test the electric choke. If you did please let me know. I have tried testing it once removed and the piston with the little needle doesn't move up and down as I would expect it to do.

WTF!

Glad this post was resurrected as it was before my time here. It gave me a chuckle.

If it looks like a solenoid, is wired like a solenoid then damn it must be a solenoid. It did not click like a solenoid so I threw it away and bought me another. And another. And another. I finally got tired of buying defective solenoids for my F9.9 and sold the motor.

Damn that Yamaha.

You say you have a 9.9. Scott said he has a T9.9. Completely different motor.

If you are trying to reach Scott, I can't help you. Scott is long gone. If you are trying to modify your motor, I can't help you.

But if you have a problem then there are a number here that will try and help you. Need the complete identity of your motor however and a statement as to what it is doing, or not doing, and when.