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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
Is that the right video???

Title says Johnson 150, intake silencer says V6, WTH???

I have thoughts about that video, if we know what "that's" about



Per your description (NOT that video)
I agree about the fuel leak into the #3 cylinder as 99Yam pointed out.

If the timing hasn't been dinked with, my $'s on the carbs being clogged up.

Doesn't take a month of sitting with fuel, un-treated to evaporate and clog the jets. Your's sound like the MAIN jets as your good at idle and just above idle.


Main jets should be open and flowing above that...

(That is if everything is assembled correctly, linkages, cables, etc)

hey guys i posten the link off a youtube vid to show you what i mean with bogging and not getting to wot. nothing to do with problem they had with that engine. just the bogging issue witch i have with my yamaha p50tlrq( yam 50 pro). i check every thing on the out on side of the engine last sunday. (spark, air, fuel. cleaned carbs. compression.check coils and switch spark plugs. fuel pump okey. carbs getting fuel.)

so i am going to open up the engine and look for any damage. ectr.. just gone start over from the bottom

just no idea what it good be. engine starst up and idle fine just bogging at wot just under 2rpm. no stalling when bogging out at wot.
this is when engine is in water on muffs it revs up to 5500rpm`s
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2017
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hey guys

i posted i youtube vid of a john`s, but not to do with problems they had with engine.
just wanted you to see what i mean with bogging at wot.

last sunday i check every thing on the outside. cleaned carbs. check compresion/spark/air and fuel. fuel pump okey. coils no damage.

so i think on starting from botom up. gone open up the engine aande check foor damage or anything not put back right last time i rebuiold the engine.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2017
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If you do not answer questions people ask, they will stop trying to help
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  #19 (permalink)  
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hey dude i am sorry about not answering the question.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2017
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only #3 cylinder has wet and clean plugs. but engine also not misfiring. or getting up to speed and then bogging down.


if have check timing
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  #21 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsanto J F View Post
only #3 cylinder has wet and clean plugs. but engine also not misfiring. or getting up to speed and then bogging down.


if have check timing
Does the timing plate move freely when you push on the linkage with the engine not running.
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  #22 (permalink)  
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i didn`t check if the plate is moving freely with engine of.
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  #23 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panasonic View Post
Does the timing plate move freely when you push on the linkage with the engine not running.
should it move freely when engine not running or ?
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  #24 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsanto J F View Post
should it move freely when engine not running or ?
Pull the safety lanyard. Turn the prop clockwise and shift in to fwd, open throttle all the way. You should be able to move timing plate back and forth by pushing on linkage if everything is hooked up right.

You still need to check timing with engine running as well, with a timing light.
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  #25 (permalink)  
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okey i will check it out and let ya when i check plate and timing
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  #26 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsanto J F View Post

i posted i youtube vid of a john`s, but not to do with problems they had with engine. PLEASE DON'T POST OTHERS VIDEO'S OR AT LEAST POST ITS NOT YOUR ENGINE, IT JUST CONFUSES THINGS. BETTER YET, VIDEO TAPE YOURS...

last sunday i check every thing on the outside. cleaned carbs..
How EXACTLY did you clean the carbs?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2017
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i let the carbs sitt in carb clean all night.

guy i told ya was going to check flywheel last night.
but my dad and mechanic removed engine block and notice the crankshaft was the problem. mechanic told me something do with dead centre point not good.

don`t no what means top and botom deadpiont and one not getting there. so basicly he told me crankshaft is bad he told me. i need to replace it. they still have to check the engine block, but he things thats fine. just crankshaft. can any body explane top center and bottom dead point. and bottom and/or center not good
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsanto J F View Post
i let the carbs sitt in carb clean all night.

guy i told ya was going to check flywheel last night.
but my dad and mechanic removed engine block and notice the crankshaft was the problem. mechanic told me something do with dead centre point not good.

don`t no what means top and botom deadpiont and one not getting there. so basicly he told me crankshaft is bad he told me. i need to replace it. they still have to check the engine block, but he things thats fine. just crankshaft. can any body explane top center and bottom dead point. and bottom and/or center not good
From your first post, it's been re-built already?

Who rebuilt it and did what exactly?

Something (mechanic wise it sounds) is not right.

In any case,

Top Dead Center or TDC is when the piston is at the HIGHEST POINT UPWARDS IN IT'S TRAVEL / stroke.

The issues with TDC having slop (major wear) is usually from bad BEARINGs likely at the crank(bearings worn, crank moves but the connecting rod/piston doesn't).

The rod bearings and possible the rod could be damaged and would likely be so MORE than the crank.

BTW, soaking the carb in cleaner alone will NOT clean it. it needs to come apart.

Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-13-2017 at 02:18 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
Top Dead Center or TDC is when the piston is at the HIGHEST
so just repace crankshaft
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2017
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only needs replacement if something is wrong with it.
you have not said what was wrong with it, so we cannot say if it needs to be replaced or not
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