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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodbolt17 View Post
to remove the sleeves I carefully use a small side grinder and thin it some.
then I use a very sharp screwdriver and split it.
As far as the Yamaha factory installed collar on post April 1, 2008 motors, have you had to ever replace these? If so, is there any much difference between removing/installing them and the pre-2008 speedi-sleeve repair kit?

Just want to know if owners of post 2008 motors with these factory installed collars should be concerned or not?

Thanks!!!
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1997 Mako 191 w/2001 Yamaha SX150 TXRZ Pushing Her
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpostis View Post
As far as the Yamaha factory installed collar on post April 1, 2008 motors, have you had to ever replace these? If so, is there any much difference between removing/installing them and the pre-2008 speedi-sleeve repair kit?

Just want to know if owners of post 2008 motors with these factory installed collars should be concerned or not?

Thanks!!!
With either the early crank shafts (no collar) or later version crank shafts (with a collar) no one need be concerned. A concern only comes about if and when an oil leak happens. There is nothing that anyone needs to do to be "proactive" to prevent a potential problem, that only a small percentage of motor owners will ever have.

It is an "on condition" part. If nothing bad happens, leave it alone. If something bad happens (oil leaks) then a replacement of the collar might be necessary. Together with new oil pump seals or new oil pump if needed. Same with a speedy sleeve. More than likely it will last the life of the motor. But, if it gets grooved, and oil leaks, then it can also be replaced again.

A bearing separator and gear puller can then be used to remove the collar from the crank shaft. The production collar, being thicker than the speedy sleeve, has something for a puller to hang on to. The speedy sleeve, not so much.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals...eve/index.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09LiVbqL6ss

Last edited by boscoe99; 01-15-2017 at 11:32 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Looking closely, I'm finding the F225 (3.3L) documentation quite unclear -
and raising so many questions....



Am I correct in thinking:

1. that the two seals above labeled "A" and "B"
collaborate to serve as the "lower crankshaft oil seal" ?

2. that "C" seals the surface to which the sleeve is applied?

3. that "D" (x2) seals against the driveshaft?

(that illustration taken from the SM corresponds to this part listing):


Last edited by fairdeal; 01-15-2017 at 12:08 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairdeal View Post
Looking closely, I'm finding the F225 (3.3L) documentation quite unclear -
and raising so many questions....
Yamaha would not have it any other way.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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# 18 goes for the drive shaft.
17 is the lower part of the crankshaft.
16 seals the upper part of the crank and 19 seals the pump from the crankcase.
it is simple if you look at how the crankshaft is also the oil pump drive.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodbolt17 View Post
# 18 goes for the drive shaft.
17 is the lower part of the crankshaft.
16 seals the upper part of the crank and 19 seals the pump from the crankcase.
I'm not understanding the source of the problem that then requires the speedysleeve - thought it was "corrosion"?

Seems like that surface is safely inside the oil pump, sealed up, top and bottom !?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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seal lips rub a grove in the shaft.
sleeve gives it a new surface and the collar makes it replaceable so you do not need to replace the crank because of grooves. the SS sleeve/collar probably stands up to the rubbing better
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2017
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Although sealed from the elements the crank shaft is not bathed in oil at the point where it drives the oil pump. The type of steel used in crank shafts and cam shafts can rust in a heart beat. Over enough time the steel simply corrodes given that it is not being bathed in oil, as would the rest of the crank shaft that is inside the motor.

Given enough time exposed to air, steel will rust. All the moreso with certain steel alloys.

That is my two cents worth. A penny will be returned if you think you paid too much.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2017
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Default Cost to repair seal?

Can someone please let me know what it costs to have a Yam certified tech repair the seal issue? I have a pair of 2004 F225 and the stbd engine is leaking engine oil out of the lower unit. Too cold to check it now but I suspect the crank seal leak.
I had the engine dry corrosion fixed on both engines 2 years ago and the port engine needed a new powerhead because the block corroded thru at the thermostats and sprayed salt water into the intake. The stbd engine shows the same corrosion but I'm on top of it and changed the external tstat housing to the newer version that has an anode. Too bad the repair shop didn't do the seal while they had it apart but that's the way it goes.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2017
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the sleeve is about 60 bucks.
an oil pump is about 400.
takes about 5 hours.
the issue on the oil pumps are the screws that hold it together.
Yamaha sells the seals not the screws and you will most likely drill them out.
cheaper to buy a pump.
it is a job a monkey can do.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2017
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The oil seal (part #19 in fairdeal's post) seems to have a "lip" on one side. Does this lip fit up against the oil pump or point towards the powerhead? In other words, is it possible to install the seal backwards? (Tried to determine from the Youtube video posted but my eyes are playing tricks on me...) Thanks.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2017
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interesting, I had not noticed that detail.

If you look back at that post,

the upper image is taken from the service manual

I had indicated that seal (#19 parts listing) with a red "B"



However, the "magnified view" in the parts listing graphic seems to show it going the other way.

I would trust the service manual.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2017
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Rod bolt- thanks for the info, very helpful.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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My '05 F250 TXRD oil pump seal started leaking a month ago. I gathered up all of the parts and started with the repairs. I pulled the powerhead and come to find out I already had a collar (factory style, not the speedi kit) installed on the crankshaft.

There were some small grooves worn the collar so I cut it off and decided to use the speedi kit since I already had it (along with a new pump). Whelp, the damn crankshaft OD is apparently smaller for the collar, the speedi sleeve slips right on - not a press fit.

Can someone help me understand what the heck is going on? This is an '05 motor that wasnt supposed to come with the collar style...and has a smaller OD crank?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunedportcj5 View Post
My '05 F250 TXRD oil pump seal started leaking a month ago. I gathered up all of the parts and started with the repairs. I pulled the powerhead and come to find out I already had a collar (factory style, not the speedi kit) installed on the crankshaft.

There were some small grooves worn the collar so I cut it off and decided to use the speedi kit since I already had it (along with a new pump). Whelp, the damn crankshaft OD is apparently smaller for the collar, the speedi sleeve slips right on - not a press fit.

Can someone help me understand what the heck is going on? This is an '05 motor that wasnt supposed to come with the collar style...and has a smaller OD crank?
Have you owned the motor since new? If not, do you have all of the maintenance records? Has the block ever been replaced?

The crankshaft was changed on 2008 production year models to come with a wear collar. Similar to a Speedy Sleeve but different. Older cranks get the Speedy Sleeve whereas later cranks get a replacement collar.

The seals for the pumps are different when the older crank is used versus the later crank.

Last edited by boscoe99; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:58 PM.
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