Born in Texas and now living in FLORIDA
Well, I guess if you can't live in Texas, Florida isn't a bad second choice [img]smile.gif[/img] !
Ok, if you have never done a water pump repair before, I strongly recommend that you get a Yamaha manual for your model outboard to guide you along. You can order online at www.yamahapubs.com
. And if you need any more parts in the future, try boats.net (sponsor of this forum) - good service and great prices.
I'll give you the basics:
(1)Disconnect the speedo tube from the bullet connector - about four inches from the bottom of the upper casing.
(2)Pull the prop - good time to inspect for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft.
(3)Remove the trim tab - there will be a "hidden" lower unit bolt under the trim tab - it is one of seven on your 130.
(4)Loosen all seven lower unit bolts and then trim the motor up at about 45 degrees so that when you remove all seven bolts and drop down the lower unit, you will have clearance for the driveshaft - have someone feed the speedo tube thru the upper casing when you drop down the lower unit.
(5)Here's where you need the manual for order of disassembly - but if you will look at the exploded view of your water pump in the online catalog above, it should be apparent - also, I am going to "paste" part of a previous post to another forum member - this was for my C115 which is basically the same as your 130 - this is for reassembly:
I've never thought about installing the impeller in the metal housing cup and then sliding down over the driveshaft - but, the normal sequence for installation is as follows (this is for my 2000 C115 - yours should be the same):
(5)three washers (two flat and one wave)
(7)collar (retainer ring)
(8)impeller cup and housing assembled together
with two o-rings
You can look up the exploded view of your water
pump in the online catalog above.
You want to tap the collar down on to the nylon spacer to within 0.080 inch, and then install the cup/housing/o-rings assy. Flip the nylon housing upside down and install the small o-ring. Hold it in place with marine grease. Then install the metal cup into the nylon housing and make sure it indexes properly so that the output of the cup lines up with the output of the housing. Then place the large o-ring in it's channel around the cup and hold it in place with grease.
Now, slide the assy down over the drive shaft. Make sure you have a little grease on the impeller and the inside of the cup. While pushing down on the housing after it makes contact with the impeller, rotate the driveshaft clockwise and at the same time rotate the housing/cup ccw while pushing down - the paddles of the impeller will bend back away from direction of spin.
You can have someone get down at eye level and make sure the paddles are pointing backward to clockwise spin of the driveshaft, and check the large o-ring to make sure it is still in it's channel of the nylon housing before you make contact with the impeller plate.
Line up the dowel pins with the holes in the housing.
For my first water pump, I actually put a large hose ring clamp around the impeller blades and got them started in the right direction before pushing the housing/cup assy down.
Don't worry about the position of the driveshaft - when you install the lower unit just make sure the shift rod is in neutral (turn the prop shaft - the drive shaft should not turn) and make sure the remote shift handle is in neutral. If the lower unit will not travel that last inch, have someone turn the flywheel just slightly so that the splines of the bottom of the crank will line up with the driveshaft. I have to do this every time I stab the lower unit on my C115.
Ok, also, I recommend a quality thread sealer on the water pump and lower unit bolts - I use Permatex 14A thread sealer with Teflon.
Good luck, and let us know how you come out on the water pump repair and overheat problem.
Ken K [img]smile.gif[/img]