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  #31 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99yam40 View Post
his pics do not show anything holding it all together, and a 6 hp motor turning something like that with nothing holding it together I am sure it is not a just a tapered fit
I can't bold but here goes...

The generator was a TEN HP engine. 3600 RPM's. The armature simply pushes on (with a long bolt thru the middle to hold it).

That motor for the air compressor MIGHT turn half that..

I do see, on Boscoes pic, a nut that holds the closest (to the motor) counter weight on. Pic isn't the greatest but the motor appears to be tapered right before the threads..

Here ya go: Pic's and everything:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2OUolBIgkE




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Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 1 Week Ago at 09:57 PM.
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  #32 (permalink)  
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the shaft he is trying to get apart is not the one with the threads, it is the one that runs thru the counter weight, and there is nothing holding it on but the press fit from what he has said
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  #33 (permalink)  
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I was hoping you would say cast iron. If it was cast iron I would cut a slot in the counter weight at the thin spot next to shaft with a zip wheel on a angle grinder. Use a cold chisel in the slot and split the counter weight off the shaft.

If it is steel. You can drill a series of holes as close to the shaft as possible and as close together as possible. This should allow the hole in the counter weight to expand ever so slightly and release from the shaft....
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Originally Posted by panasonic View Post
I was hoping you would say cast iron. If it was cast iron I would cut a slot in the counter weight at the thin spot next to shaft with a zip wheel on a angle grinder. Use a cold chisel in the slot and split the counter weight off the shaft.

If it is steel. You can drill a series of holes as close to the shaft as possible and as close together as possible. This should allow the hole in the counter weight to expand ever so slightly and release from the shaft....
Block off all the openings below to keep cuttings out of motor.

What a pain.

Reminds me of the old faucets that need to be replaced. Cheesy retaining rings that you try to loosen while laying on your back inside cabinet. Better to grab a drill and safety glasses.

Last edited by pstephens46; 1 Week Ago at 07:46 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99yam40 View Post
the shaft he is trying to get apart is not the one with the threads, it is the one that runs thru the counter weight, and there is nothing holding it on but the press fit from what he has said
A grinder with a cut off wheel (or air powered cut off wheel), would take care of that real quick... Just have to be careful when he gets close to the main shaft.
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  #36 (permalink)  
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Only way I can think of without destroying the pieces would be to weld some studs to it to pull on. they could be ground back off if you wanted to put it back together
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  #37 (permalink)  
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Default reverse thread ?

Try turning it clockwise and see if it raises the key lock and comes out. Sometimes things are this dumb.
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  #38 (permalink)  
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Updates Boscoe?
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  #39 (permalink)  
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Snow is gone now. Back to work!
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  #40 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by pstephens46 View Post
Updates Boscoe?
No joy on getting the parts removed from the electric motor. Not worth the risk of destroying the motor. Appears that the might not serve my purpose anyway. Drive shaft appears too short. Am putting it all back together so as to sell the air compressor as a working unit. Only paid 50 bucks for it so I should come out ahead financially. Might then take that money and buy a 5/6 HP electric motor.
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  #41 (permalink)  
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seems I remember reading or hearing many years ago that an automobile alternator used about 7 HP.
never heard anything about an outboards charging system, but sounds like you are going to find out.
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Originally Posted by 99yam40 View Post
seems I remember reading or hearing many years ago that an automobile alternator used about 7 HP.
never heard anything about an outboards charging system, but sounds like you are going to find out.
Maybe some day. This is all taking a lot more time, effort and money than I first thought. It has been fun and I have learned a couple of things however.
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  #43 (permalink)  
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You going to get a Cap start cap run 240V motor somewhere and hook it up direct drive?
might be hard to get going fighting the magnets

I would think a gas lawnmower motor would be easier and cheaper to find

Last edited by 99yam40; 3 Days Ago at 11:49 AM.
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  #44 (permalink)  
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You going to get a Cap start cap run 240V motor somewhere and hook it up direct drive?
might be hard to get going fighting the magnets

I would think a gas lawnmower motor would be easier and cheaper to find
Gas motor is too loud for my tired ears.

Yes, looking for a 240 volt 5/6 HP electric motor. Already got a drive mechanism made up for the 120 2 HP motor. Pulley and belt drive. Even geared down 2:1 the 2 HP motor still did not have enough grunt.

For all I know, the magnets in the rotor I have may be able to produce a lot more electrical power than any outboard motor may have. Thus they may be needing much more mechanical power to turn the rotor.

With no electrical load applied to the output of the generator the electric motor can turn the generator rotor quite freely. It is when an electrical load gets applied that you see and hear stuff start to happen. Hook the Yamaha R/R up and stuff grinds to a halt. Motor slow way down and my circuit breaker trips.
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  #45 (permalink)  
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what is the RPM of the 2hp motor?
do you need to spin the generator at any special speed?
might try changing pulleys again to get more torque , but may turn the unit too slow to get enough output
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