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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Default 250 HP 4 stroke 2007 need thread size for Oil drain Bolt

Looks like a (helicoil ) or a (++time - insert) repair, unless a kit is available?
need to know the thread size, should be Metric
I need this to get proper thread repair part, is there a chart somewhere?
any ideas or advice on this repair.
Thank you
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Old 1 Week Ago
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the oil pan drain?


M14 x 1.5

very common on Asian cars - the auto parts store should have several options
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairdeal View Post
the oil pan drain?


M14 x 1.5


Thank you for this fast reply
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Old 1 Week Ago
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26 minutes. Man, he's slippin'!
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Why did you not come here in the first place instead of going to the other site?
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I had it in my notes - but wanted to double check to be certain.

I don't keep my old midsection sitting downstairs for nothing!

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While you guys are here , This will be my first helicoil insert to a oil pan.. I am thinking to not break off the tab on the new thread coil as they say to do, but let the insert remain with the tab on. I don't think it should matter for this use. I do not think I would be able to get that little tab out. To have it in the oil pan, I do not think that's a good idea! Even though it should remain on the bottom. what is your opinion or correct procedure to do this.
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I don't think you need to worry about the oil pump sucking up the tang - there's a screen on the pickup -
but so long as the plug threads in far enough for the washer to seal,
no harm in leaving the tang on, either.

And I imagine you have no plans to ever remove the plug; have either already brought home or at least ordered, a vacuum oil changer....
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A pair of thin nose needle nose pliers and you should be able reach in a hole that size and grab the tang.....wiggle it in and out and it should break off easily. Make sure you have a good grip on it...
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Plus one M14 x 1.5 : Magnetic Drain Plugs for Yamaha Motorcycles

Also on pulling the tang outward...

I put in a bunch of smaller Heli-coils in the float bowls of 10 HP
B&S carbs to drain the carb fuel FULLY.

There's VERY LITTLE aluminum(maybe 1/16" thick) there so I use RED LOCKTITE when installing them...

You do, (while still wet), need to remove excess loctite BEFORE it set up over night.

Either running (not tight) a bolt (and then clean off excess), repeat. If not,
you'll have to run a normal tap back thru the heli-coil to clean excess-Not recommended as it does get tight trying to remove excess.

*Just a side note, as thin as that aluminum is, once the insert is in, the steel threads are extremely strong..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panasonic View Post
A pair of thin nose needle nose pliers and you should be able reach in a hole that size and grab the tang.....wiggle it in and out and it should break off easily. Make sure you have a good grip on it...
I got a thought on outboard motor drain plug threads.

You know how aluminum is. It likes to fatigue and fracture. Not a lot of fatigue strength in the stuff. I am guessing that over a number of tightening cycles (maybe to the point of "let's just snug it down a bit more to be sure it does not loosen") the threads simply fatigue to the point that one day they crack and then are prone to letting go.

On another (the wrong) forum the OP said he was using a torque wrench to tighten his plug and it just kept on turning. Apparently with little torque being applied. I have heard this before from Yamaha four stroke owners. That the oil pan threads stripped and they were barely tightening the drain plug.

As a test, some other fools and me set out to intentionally strip the threads on a brand new oil pan. It took a hellava lot of muscle. Much more than any of us fools would have imagined. Actually took a breaker bar to get the job done.

So do you think my fatigue theory holds any water?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoe99 View Post
I got a thought on outboard motor drain plug threads.

You know how aluminum is. It likes to fatigue and fracture. Not a lot of fatigue strength in the stuff. I am guessing that over a number of tightening cycles (maybe to the point of "let's just snug it down a bit more to be sure it does not loosen") the threads simply fatigue to the point that one day they crack and then are prone to letting go.

On another (the wrong) forum the OP said he was using a torque wrench to tighten his plug and it just kept on turning. Apparently with little torque being applied. I have heard this before from Yamaha four stroke owners. That the oil pan threads stripped and they were barely tightening the drain plug.

As a test, some other fools and me set out to intentionally strip the threads on a brand new oil pan. It took a hellava lot of muscle. Much more than any of us fools would have imagined. Actually took a breaker bar to get the job done.

So do you think my fatigue theory holds any water?
No...

The torque spec is too tight to start with. My bike (Yamaha) uses the EXACT SAME BOLT, slightly less aluminum thread and is spec'ed for 30 lbs ft...

The F150 is spec'ed for 20 lb ft.

I torque them the same as the oil filter, 12 lbs foot (or good and snug).. It simply needs to be tight enough to NOT loosen... It's not going anywhere...


**There have been many cases of bikes, from Yamaha, with the drain plug torqued down WAY BEYOND 30 lbs ft. That alone may stress the threads from the factory...





.

Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 1 Week Ago at 04:59 PM.
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What then might be the reason behind the oil pan threads simply up and letting go one day without excess torque being applied to them?

This has happened to too many folks for it to simply be a one off coincidence. Or have the many that said they were barely turning the drain plug all been lying about it?

Last edited by boscoe99; 1 Week Ago at 05:09 PM.
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Also, I'd try to set up some sort of jig to make sure your perpendicular to the block for drilling and tapping.

Wether it be a block of wood, steel, aluminum, INITIALLY DRILLED in a DRILL press(so it's square), then attached / clamped, etc to the block would help keep things straight..

If it's crooked enough, you'll likely have a small leak unless using sealer on the threads...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boscoe99 View Post
What then might be the reason behind the oil pan threads simply up and letting go one day without excess torque being applied to them?

This has happened to too many folks for it to simply be a one off coincidence.
Unless you know WHO exactly, for the life of the engine, has touched that bolt, all bets are off...

I have been the ONLY person to do oil changes on my engine, now 11 years old, the threads are fine... Same for the bike..

I've NEVER stripped an oil drain plug in 47 years, a good part of them in aluminum...

It takes ONE person to screw them up...(dealer, PO, current owner, etc)
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