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Old 1 Week Ago
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Default 2003 Yamaha 150hp VMAX Oil warning help

I need help troubleshooting an oil warning alarm. Oil dropped in my main tank and the motor went to safe mode below 2000 rpms. Here is what i have diagnosed:
1. The oil pump on second oil tank works. (direct connect to battery and it pumped oil into the main oil tank.) The alarm shut off.
2. I removed the direct connection to the oil pump, and connected wires as manufactured. I removed the oil in the main oil tank, and the oil level gauge sets off the alarm. The pump would not come on. Since the alarm came on when the level was too low, doesnt that indicate the oil level gauge essay is good on the main oil tank?
3. I flipped the switch on the back of the motor to override, and the oil did not pump into the main tank.

I am stuck as to what to do next. Any suggestions are truly appreciated.

Need some tight lines but grounded.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Default thanks need location help

where would i find the connector near the main oil tank sensor? and and advice on how to use an OHMs to check it?
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Old 1 Week Ago
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I really appreciate the help. Ok, so i have identified and inspected the harness connector at the remote oil tank and the one in the pan of the engine. Pulled apart and visually looked and reconnected. If i turn the key on, how do i test for voltage at the brown wire? do i use an OHMs meter? Sorry, for all the questions, this is a 1st for me with electrical trouble shooting. Rebuilt my power pole and wiring, but lost with this troubleshoot.

Again , super appreciative.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Boscoe will be able to give you more direct advice on the testing, although testing for V is simply one probe on the "supposed to be" hot connection and another on a ground. BUT, to help clarify some things, and to save Boscoe the typing...

You're getting terminology confused. I'm only going to mention this in a friendly way as a side note, but... if the basic terminology is getting you confused, maybe you would be best to take it to a shop? The last thing you want to do is to try and save $, only to mess something up and end up costing you $$$.

However, here is the skinny...

Ohms are a measure of resistance. You can set a DMM (Digital MultiMeter) to an "Ohm" setting. A DMM will measure other values, as well, such as V (Volts) and A (Amps). And, I'm sure you can find a meter that ONLY measures Ohms, and then one would likely call it an Ohm Meter. But, again, you're after V, not Ohms.

Often, though, DMM's are called by different names. Sometimes they are just referred to as a MultiMeter. I'm sure there are other names, too. A basic DMM can be found for $10, give or take.
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2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyGAL Christmas View Post
I really appreciate the help. Ok, so i have identified and inspected the harness connector at the remote oil tank and the one in the pan of the engine. Pulled apart and visually looked and reconnected. If i turn the key on, how do i test for voltage at the brown wire? do i use an OHMs meter? Sorry, for all the questions, this is a 1st for me with electrical trouble shooting. Rebuilt my power pole and wiring, but lost with this troubleshoot.

Again , super appreciative.
Set your multimeter to DC volts. Black test lead (negative) to ground and red test lead (positive) to the brown wire connection at the pump. You should see 12 Volts on the meter with the key on, or toggle switch on. (see poorly modified diagram)

I think that's what Boscoe is asking you to do....
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Old 1 Week Ago
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really appreciate the explanation of OHMS. The meter I have can be switched to V. Still at a lost on where to go from here, but certainly making progress.

thanks
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Old 1 Week Ago
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Did you look at the diagram I posted?

Double click on the picture to make it bigger and see where to put the meter test leads for the test.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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yes, thank you for the diagram. I get the positive to the brown. The black goes to ground. which ground?
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Old 1 Week Ago
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The engine block. Somewhere on the block where there is no paint present such as the starter case where it bolts to the engine. Or you may see a ground stud on the block with a few black wires attached.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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awesome. if there arent any volts during your above suggestion, what would that indicate?
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Old 1 Week Ago
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put the meter down.
back away slowly.
before any testing you must understand what voltage is.
what resistance is.
this aint difficult and I have beat this system to death over the years.

can you manually refill the engine tank using the emergency switch with the key on?

lets just do one question at a time.

do a forum search and you will see I have several hours typing.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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that made me laugh. meter is down. No, The toggle / emergency switch will not fill the main tank. however, the pump works when directly connected to the battery.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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ok
we know the remote pump can run.
now place your meter on the DC scale.
check voltage at key on engine off from the brown wire at the remote tank to the engine block.
do you have 12V?

if you do move the black meter lead to the blue wire at the remote tank and depress the emergency switch. do you show about 12V?
voltage is a simple measure of electrical pressure.
current(amps) make the thing work.

it is an incredibly simple system. uses 3 switchs in the engine tank to control pump on, pump off and a second command for pump on,RPM reduction on and audible alarm on.
the 4th switch in the remote tank simply controls the low oil visual and inhibits or allows auto transfer.
if that center bar/yellow lamp is lit it wont transfer automatically but will with the E switch.
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Old 6 Days Ago
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yep
pretty much.
4 switchs and it is that simple.
they are either on or off.
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Old 6 Days Ago
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Default back at it Rodbolt17

ok, Following Rodbolt17 - i placed the red line of the tester
on brown wire remote tank and black grounded on motor. Result : 12V reading on the meter. I followed your second step, by moving the black to the blue wire on the remote tank. Activated toggle switch on back of motor, and the meter read 12V. So that checks out. Weird what next?
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