Leak down test & compression test...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

nope he just dropped it off, but may be the pan gasket. will need to check bolts for tightness before anything.

oh I would not be tasting for salt after all of that water coming from who knows where

Just literally touching my tongue on my pointy finger (wet), I know better, but thanks..

I never saw a pressure washer with a oil pan (un-less you mean the cast/part of the block half)... Never seen one of those gaskets blown out.

[99yam40]

yes bottom of the motor casting gasket is my thought.
only thing I do not understand is why it needs to be running to leak it out.
must be the slinger throwing it up onto the sides and then crankcase pressure pushes it out
Vertical shaft motor, if it was the oil seal it would be leaking out the bottom down the shaft
it will be tomorrow or monday before I have time to play with it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Possible...

De-grease real good, fill it up with oil and let her rip....

Shouldn't be too hard to find...

Good luck.

[99yam40]

you need to pull that McCullough apart to see if the rings are stuck, maybe freeing them up would get compression back up.


I need to do the same with the one here with bad compression .Let me know if you junk it out.
the plug wire on this running one was rubbed way down almost into the current carrying center.
I taped it up and made sure it was out of the way of moving parts, but not sure how long it will hold up

I will work on the pressure washer in the morning hopefully

[TownsendsFJR1300]

you need to pull that McCullough apart to see if the rings are stuck, maybe freeing them up would get compression back up.

I will work on the pressure washer in the morning hopefully

The owner already picked it up and didn't want to put anymore $ into it.
I doubt you could get gaskets, etc for this thing. He ordered a new chain oil cap for it, (very course threads), and we got one with fine threads..

He was very happy with the other 3 Poulan chain saws NOW running great.. (Got 2 more Poulan chain saws coming in today).


*On a side note, another customer dropped off an Echo weed-eater, 2 days ago (carb cleaning). Cleaned it spotless, new fuel lines, would not start. My fuel mix includes RingFree(reg mix) and Gas Shok(+ oil).

He comes over to pick it up yesterday, pulls it, STARTS ON THE FIRST PULL!
That was the first time I heard it run... I had blown out the crankcase (piston /port) to make sure it wasn't flooded... The ONLY thing I can think of is the RF (already pumped thru the primer bulb thru-out the carb), cleaned something over night.. And that engine has NO fuel adjustments at all...



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[99yam40]

Find out if he is junking it please.
took apart the pressure washer today.
it was the oil pan Gasket leaking.

I could clean it well and then tilt the unit and oil would run out at the crankcase joint under the cylinder.

pulled pump and motor, undid the pan bolts and tried removing it. move an inch or so but would not come off.
cleaned the shaft the best I could, but had to remover the crank lower seal to clean the shaft more to let lower bushing(oil pan) to slide off.
found a plastic piece in the pan.
came from the governor pin cup.
they do not sell that piece separate, have to buy oil pan kit which includes the pan, seal, gasket, and whole governor assembly

looks like any Kohler xt7 173 motor uses the same pan, gaskets, and governor.

All of the spare motors /parts I have laying around are B&S.
Scott you have any kohler XT173CC parts or know where I might find the plastic cup that slips over the pin?
they want 50 to 60 for the kit just for me to get the small plastic cup.
Just doing this for a favor for the guy that borrowed the unit after the flood, and I may have(probably did) break it sliding the pan back and forth on the shaft trying to get it off

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Find out if he is junking it please.
took apart the pressure washer today.
it was the oil pan Gasket leaking.

I could clean it well and then tilt the unit and oil would run out at the crankcase joint under the cylinder.

pulled pump and motor, undid the pan bolts and tried removing it. move an inch or so but would not come off.
cleaned the shaft the best I could, but had to remover the crank lower seal to clean the shaft more to let lower bushing(oil pan) to slide off.
found a plastic piece in the pan.
came from the governor pin cup.
they do not sell that piece separate, have to buy oil pan kit which includes the pan, seal, gasket, and whole governor assembly

looks like any Kohler xt7 173 motor uses the same pan, gaskets, and governor.

All of the spare motors /parts I have laying around are B&S.
Scott you have any kohler XT173CC parts or know where I might find the plastic cup that slips over the pin?
they want 50 to 60 for the kit just for me to get the small plastic cup.
Just doing this for a favor for the guy that borrowed the unit after the flood, and I may have(probably did) break it sliding the pan back and forth on the shaft trying to get it off

I don't have any Kohler parts...

For that reason, I stick mostly with B&S, Honda or Techumsah, parts are easy to find and cheap.

Here's one on Flea Bay, $6.00 plus shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Pressu...cAAOSwT6pV1jb8. Kinda hard to tell if the plastic gear is tore up but I think yours is good, still need a seal a gasket thou..

As for pan removal, your on track, sand down some more (probably wet sand with lots of rinsing), it'll slide off...

Did that broken "cup" affect the governor?? Perhaps it over revved and blew out that gasket...

You might look on Flea Bay for it but if it's a very good machine otherwise, I'd pop for the kit.

If your interested in his Mccolugh, PM me and I'll give you his e-mail address. He's about 40 minutes north of here. I suggested he sell it on
Craigslist which I suspect he'll do.

It'd cost a small fortune to ship it to Texas (close to $40, Fed Ex as I shipped a 6.6 Honda engine to Louisiana)..

[99yam40]

Thanks I did not find anything on e bay when I looked, I will look into the one you found.
$18 shipping and handling it a little steep IMHO for that,
but if super glue and a piece of heat shrink tube will hold it together while on that pin/shaft it should operate as it should just pushing against the lever. I will give that a try 1st.
strange ideas pop into my head at night sometimes
there was a couple of small motor repair shops around years ago that I could dig threw their junk piles to find stuff, but they are no longer around

There is no way the part of the cup could have come off the pin while the lever was against it, so it had to be when I was plulling it and sliding back to do more cleaning on the shaft to get it apart.
.
after removing the seal and cleaning the shaft better right up to the seal running surface it slid right off.
rust build up on a 9 year old machine gets tough sometimes

I did not want the whole saw, but you are right shipping on even the small parts are not worth it if I do not have an immediate need for them.
so never mind on the saw

[BQUICK]

I was under the impression you couldn't do a valid leakdown on a 2 stroke without blocking off intake and exhaust. No?

[99yam40]

with piston at TDC the intake and exhaust ports are not in the mix, just the rings,piston head, and head/ head gasket itself.
only place for the air to go is by the rings, or out a hole that should not be there in something

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was under the impression you couldn't do a valid leakdown on a 2 stroke without blocking off intake and exhaust. No?

Hoky doke 99...

Besides the potential ring leakage, also head gasket(if equipped), broke/leaking, piston, etc..

But yes, works great on a 2 stroke. I rebuilt the carb, plenty of spark, fair compression. Would not even cough.. Leak down tester (posted earlier), @90PSI dropped to 38 PSI, MUCH air escaping from the carburetor..

That test ENDED my "right arm work out", (parts motor)...

Now if you blocked off the intake and exhaust @ TDC, you could test for SEAL
LEAKAGE at the crankshaft, but I'd use a vacuum gauge..

Putting 90 PSI into the lower end of a two stroke WILL BLOW OUT SEALS. It's not designed for compression, just enough pressure to push the fuel / air mix to the combustion chamber...


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