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Please Help - Tilt / Trim issues

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  • Please Help - Tilt / Trim issues

    Hello all I am a new member here with a question about a Yamaha 50TLR manufacture date 6/2008.

    I have had intermittent issues with trimming this motor down. Up works fine with no issues.

    With the blue and green wire removed from the relay I get 12.8 volts and negative 12.8 volts when operating the switches, but with the wires connected I was getting nothing. I do not think it is a switch problem as both switches do the same thing. Also when hooking the trim motor up direct it will travel in both directions with no issues.

    If I understand correctly there is a red 12 volt positive wire and a black negative wire and the relay switches between the blue and green wires. (up being blue and green being down)

    As I was testing earlier with a meter between blue and green the motor suddenly started working again and is now working fine. I really need to get some ideas on what could be causing this issue.

    Also I have taken the motor apart and cleaned the inside and lubed the shaft and bearing. Brushes look to be ok.

    Thanks in advance for any help you could provide.

    Mark

  • #2
    Originally posted by Gateaux01 View Post
    I have had intermittent issues with trimming this motor down. Up works fine with no issues.

    I do not think it is a switch problem as both switches do the same thing. Also when hooking the trim motor up direct it will travel in both directions with no issues.
    Ok, so good troubleshooting.
    That points to the relay - which is really two separate relays joined at the hip.
    One half could be fine while the other half is sketchy.

    I would swap the blue and green leads at the relay (of course the switches will now be "backwards")
    if the problem moves - down is now fine, up is a problem - seems you need a new relay.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
      Ok, so good troubleshooting.
      That points to the relay - which is really two separate relays joined at the hip.
      One half could be fine while the other half is sketchy.

      I would swap the blue and green leads at the relay (of course the switches will now be "backwards")
      if the problem moves - down is now fine, up is a problem - seems you need a new relay.
      That is a great idea to try. I dont know why I didnt think to do that. Problem is now it is working so I will have to wait until it act ups again.

      If I have to change the relay, I see some wires that look like they are molded in. Are the relays easy to replace and do you have to replace both??

      Thanks very much for the quick response!!

      Comment


      • #4
        has to be replaced as a unit -
        and, although it looks like it can be "opened up" by removing screws,
        those wires are in fact "molded in" ("potted" I think is the term)

        but easy to replace, the hardest part is pulling out the wallet to pay for it
        although currently quite a bargain available on eBay
        (I believe this is the one for your engine)

        New TRIM RELAY for Yamaha 30-90 HP 6H1-81950-00-00 | eBay

        Comment


        • #5
          Mine is doing the EXACT SAME THING (to the letter), but soon as I put a meter on it, it starts working. Very rare it happens, maybe once a month??

          Agreed, 100%, it has to be the relay. I'm waiting till mine gets worse and I get a "positive failure".

          In case it won't go down at sea, you can either release the hydralic manual release screw, OR simply jump past the relay using the heavy positive line terminal (right there) and jump it (separate wire) to the down wire terminal... Your simply by-passing the crapped up contacts inside the relay..


          Part #19: 2006 and Later 50TLR Yamaha Outboard ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram and Parts

          The other one listed is a Chinese knock off.. (I personally would steer clear of it-And my OEM relay is a bit more than yours)
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
            has to be replaced as a unit -
            and, although it looks like it can be "opened up" by removing screws,
            those wires are in fact "molded in" ("potted" I think is the term)

            but easy to replace, the hardest part is pulling out the wallet to pay for it
            although currently quite a bargain available on eBay
            (I believe this is the one for your engine)

            New TRIM RELAY for Yamaha 30-90 HP 6H1-81950-00-00 | eBay
            Thanks for the link.. Still dont know why it seems to work fine without the wires on the terminals. Unless just coincidence??

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
              Mine is doing the EXACT SAME THING (to the letter), but soon as I put a meter on it, it starts working. Very rare it happens, maybe once a month??

              Agreed, 100%, it has to be the relay. I'm waiting till mine gets worse and I get a "positive failure".

              In case it won't go down at sea, you can either release the hydralic manual release screw, OR simply jump past the relay using the heavy positive line terminal (right there) and jump it (separate wire) to the down wire terminal... Your simply by-passing the crapped up contacts inside the relay..


              Part #19: 2006 and Later 50TLR Yamaha Outboard ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram and Parts

              The other one listed is a Chinese knock off.. (I personally would steer clear of it-And my OEM relay is a bit more than yours)
              Thanks for the reply and for the diagram. Does this site sell parts??

              Comment


              • #8
                If you get battery voltage with the wires disconnected but nil battery voltage with the wires connected, that indicates to me a voltage drop issue. Poor wiring or connections thereto. Within or outside of the relay. I am not sure of exactly where you are making your voltage measurements.

                You should see 12 volts on the red wire terminal connected to the relay either when the relay is activated or when it is not activated. When the up button is pressed you should see 12 volts on the relay terminal for the blue power feed wire. When the down button is pressed you should see 12 volts on the relay terminal for the green power feed wire.

                Make sure the ground wire from the relay to the engine block is in good condition.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Gateaux01 View Post
                  Thanks for the reply and for the diagram. Does this site sell parts??
                  Yes, this site sure does sell parts.. In fact they pay the cyber rent for this place where we can talk up all this junk, so your patronage is appreciated.

                  Just go to the top of this page and click on the guys fishing in the upper right hand corner (or the YAMAHA Genuine parts & accessories Logo)

                  Most likely, Scott's link in his reply will bring you directly to the part from this website.

                  I find Boats.net (this website) to have the best prices for new genuine factory parts anyway, so I think you are in the right place! Welcome!
                  If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep, as I suspected, TownsendFJR1300 has done all the work for you, he's a heck of a nice guy...
                    ...most times.

                    I too advise- Do not mess around with aftermarket cheap parts.

                    I have been riding Yamaha motorcycles all my life and when ever I would (in the past) try to save a dollar and buy a substitute component, I would always end up eventually buying the genuine part anyway... usually after being stranded somewhere.

                    #4 in Boscoe's diagram is the relay and #3 is the trim/tilt pump motor (#'s 2 & 5 are the engine starter motor) Boscoe seems to be a nice guy too and he can draw up a diagram faster than I can find a colored pencil...
                    Last edited by FabricGATOR; 06-02-2017, 10:59 PM.
                    If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by FabricGATOR View Post
                      Yep, as I suspected, TownsendFJR1300 has done all the work for you, he's a heck of a nice guy... Tks!

                      ...most times. I don't play nice with "trolls"..

                      I too advise- Do not mess around with aftermarket cheap parts. PLUS 1!
                      .
                      And yes, that link is from here (for you engine) and is the cheapest you'll find anywhere.

                      Their also part of "Partzilla" which also sells OEM motorcyle parts, most any big name mechanical machines parts as well:

                      Partzilla: OEM Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, Marine Parts

                      Also, I forgot to mention, you'll hear the relay click (when the button is pushed-the coil inside IS working), but the contacts are crappy without full voltage (or any) passing to the "down line". Mine is also the down line, I suspect it pulls more current and "wears faster".


                      .
                      Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-03-2017, 07:19 AM.
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I will most likely order the relay from this site in the next day or so. The wiring diagram was also helpful.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just a side note, you'd be over the $150 mark(for the relay alone), so it's free shipping. If you need oil, fuel filters, etc, when you order, then would be the time.

                          I needed some parts for the motorcycle and the boat engine. Being the same company, ordered just enough to get over the $150 mark
                          Scott
                          1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Good suggestion.
                            I'm guessing there is no chance of getting to the contacts inside the relay? Maybe something I could clean up that's not making a good connection once activated?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Gateaux01 View Post
                              Good suggestion.
                              I'm guessing there is no chance of getting to the contacts inside the relay? Maybe something I could clean up that's not making a good connection once activated?
                              You'd have to look specifically at yours to see if it's "bolted together", very likely NOT. They seal them up tight for marine use.

                              Below is a pic of my STARTER relay CONTACTS that crapped up on me. It is a sealed unit, took me 15 minutes with an cut off air grinder to access (and destroy) the unit but I wanted to see the contacts-verification/curiosity:

                              Scott
                              1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

                              Comment

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