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Yamaha F90 - regulator/rectifier failure twice and trim switch failure

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  • Yamaha F90 - regulator/rectifier failure twice and trim switch failure

    Hi,

    I own a 2015 yamaha f90 - use it quite frequently - at least once a week.

    A regulator/rectifier failed on the motor and it stopped charging the battery (no smoke or overheating signs on the rectifier).

    I replaced the regulator/rectifier.

    Then the trim/tilt switch on the outboard failed.

    The new regulator/rectifier has just failed again!!

    I have a new trim/tilt switch ordered.


    I checked and cleaned the engine and battery connections (they where clean anyway)


    To the boat battery (new battery - less then 12 months old - dual purpose 12V starting/deep cycle battery) I have:

    - Yamaha F90 motor wires
    - Rule Bilge 1100 gpm wires (not fused)
    - Basic Stereo wires (in-line fused) - stays in stand-by mode when motor is off
    - After market GPS (in-line fused) - draws power even when motor is off as it gives update on location
    - Boat lights wires

    All wires tightened down with wing nuts - tightened with pliers (always seem to be tight).


    Thanks

  • #2
    I don't see anything that you are doing as causing a problem.

    With respect to the wing nuts, if you are going to be using pliers on them why not just replace them with nylocks? Wing nuts are made to be hand tightened only. If you are going to tighten them with a tool, why not use locking nuts?

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    • #3
      Isn't it still under warranty??
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
        Isn't it still under warranty??
        The motor is not under warranty as it was a fishing camp return motor. Yamaha dealer said it is not a common concern for rectifiers to fail and don't have any idea what causing it.

        The new part was ordered from Yamaha.

        Comment


        • #5
          Rod bolt will have to weigh in, I have no idea....

          Nice the dealer has no idea or apparently didn't do any testing..
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
            I don't see anything that you are doing as causing a problem.

            With respect to the wing nuts, if you are going to be using pliers on them why not just replace them with nylocks? Wing nuts are made to be hand tightened only. If you are going to tighten them with a tool, why not use locking nuts?
            Second the nylocks. Ditch the wing nuts. They just hurt your fingers.

            Do you have a battery switch?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
              Second the nylocks. Ditch the wing nuts. They just hurt your fingers.

              Do you have a battery switch?

              Don't have a battery switch.

              Will switch over to nylocks.

              Does anyone know what how to check for short circuits of ground faults? I have a Blue Sea Mini Clamp Multimeter - AC/DC. Just not sure what to look for.

              Thanks

              Comment


              • #8
                Is it possible the stator failed or out of spec's???? Has that been checked?

                Your service manual would how how to check it....


                That would explain lack of charging (and possibly frying the VR's)

                For two VR's to both fail so close together is VERY UN-likely..


                Part #4: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TOR/parts.html
                Scott
                1997 Angler 204 CC, 2006 F150 TXR

                Comment


                • #9
                  well lets see.
                  the regulator is fed a 3 phase AC signal.
                  the rectifier portion rectifies this to DC.
                  what current is not used is shunted to ground.
                  this creates heat.
                  have a poor ground path and you have a lot more heat.
                  I would do a voltage drop test on the cables and carefully check all engine grounds.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                    well lets see.
                    the regulator is fed a 3 phase AC signal.
                    the rectifier portion rectifies this to DC.
                    what current is not used is shunted to ground.
                    this creates heat.
                    have a poor ground path and you have a lot more heat.
                    I would do a voltage drop test on the cables and carefully check all engine grounds.

                    Could that mean the trim/tilt relay ground could be the issue and caused the switch to fail?

                    How would I check the ground to see it it is the issue? I am pretty handy mechanically - electrics not so much.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      take apart and clean is the only way I know.

                      And I do not see how the T&T switch and the RR have anything in common for failure at all
                      Last edited by 99yam40; 04-11-2017, 05:25 AM.

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