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06 F60TLR possible vapor lock ???

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  • #31
    How is it going to interface with the locking fittings that are used on your Yam?

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    • #32
      I thought the drawing looked like some kind of high pressure connector on that.

      might be best to test the lift pump pressure and vacuum and not do the HP unless that is needed later on

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      • #33
        Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
        There will always be some restriction to fuel flow which can be seen on an absolute pressure gauge. Too little pressure drop generally indicates an air leak. Too much pressure drop indicates something abnormal that is overly restricting the flow of fuel.

        The measurement needs to be taken at WOT for maximum fuel flow.

        Most 0 ~ 30" Hg gauges won't have the fidelity needed to see small pressure values. What is needed is a mechanical gauge with a 0 ~ 8" Hg reading or better still an electronic digital gauge.
        Needs to be taken at WOT? How is he going to do that? Cowl off, running down the channel I guess?

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        • #34
          Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
          Needs to be taken at WOT? How is he going to do that? Cowl off, running down the channel I guess?
          Exactly. Does not have to be in a channel but...

          Now am I suggesting that the driver drive the boat while running back to monitor the gauge? Nope. One set of hands on the wheel and one set of eyeballs on the gauge.

          But if he has a gauge plumbed to the dash he can then simply look down and see what the reading happens to be when at WOT.

          Or he can pay about 1000 bucks for the Yamaha tool that simulates WOT fuel flow and which indicates pressure at that fuel flow.

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          • #35
            I'm thinking we need bluetooth guages...

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            • #36
              I'm thinking that I agree with you.

              Some Yam engine data can now be sent wirelessly to an Iphone or Android device but fuel pressure is not some of it.

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              • #37
                OK Guys, I have a vac. gauge between the primer bulb and the motor, and a pressure gauge between the lift pump and the VST.
                Primer bulb got hard at 20lbs. press. Held 20 lbs for 5 minutes. I cranked it up and fuel pressure dropped steadily down to around 4 1/2 to 5 lbs. Holding the same after 5 minutes on double muffs. Vacuum gauge showing 1 HG. Engine purring like a kitten. Idle speed 700RPM's. temps as follows:
                thermostat housing 139/141*
                fuel cooler 80/86*
                exh. hub water 123/125*
                telltale 92/94*
                above top spark plug 168/165*
                between 1st and 2nd plug 123/132*
                between 2nd and 3rd 135/146*
                between 3rd and 4th 144/142*

                2nd temp. #'s after 15 minutes running. 20 minutes in and still purring.....

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                • #38
                  I think the burned terminal was caused by an ethanol gummed up original pump that had been sitting up for 4 years.....They tried to crank the motor before cleaning the gunk out of anything

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                  • #39
                    OK, I'm 40 minutes in now and everything stabilized....just waiting to see if it decides to act up or not.....this is getting boring !

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                    • #40
                      one hour in on muffs.... telltale still peeing, temp alarm went off. Temp at thermostat housing 192 degrees, 157 to 198 between cylinders, fuel cooler 126.
                      I cut motor off, removed cuffs, replaced with barrel, cranked back up. Idling still at 700RPM's, temps back down to normal. Still no misfire or stumble from motor. Seems to be peeing a harder stream in the barrel than it did on the dual muffs.Fuel pressure still 4 1/2 to 5 lbs., but I did notice that it dropped to 0 when I cut the motor off. (maybe float dropped a little to release that pressure)

                      Still watching it , guys....

                      This is boring...thinking about getting on board, putting my rods out, and turning my hummingbird to simulator mode.....
                      Last edited by Fred Pittman; 07-16-2016, 09:59 AM.

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                      • #41
                        What are double muffs?

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                        • #42
                          the water inlet where hose connects is split so water is pushed in from both cups....not just from one side

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                          • #43
                            Twenty minutes into barrel run....motor quiet as a church mouse. Temps holding , 139 to 140 at thermostat housing. I've got one more hour to let it run before I have to get ready for work. fuel pressure still at 4 1/2 to 5 lb., vac. 1MM HG at primer ball. No bites yet but seeing lots of fish on structure.....

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                            • #44
                              DUDE
                              are ya nuts?
                              you simply CANNOT run that motor on a hose for an hour.
                              it WILL overheat.

                              if you MUST run it that long use BOTH the muffs and the onboard flush port.

                              the MUFFS nor the flush port were designed to flow enough water for that extended running.

                              by using two SEPERATE hoses and both flush devices you may get enough water to keep the passages full.

                              however from reading the posts I think your chasing ghosties.

                              you state you can restart by pumping the primer.
                              if so fix the leak/restriction between the lift pump and the liquid in the tank.

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                              • #45
                                OK, noticed that telltale had lost a little pressure and telltale water temp had increased to 133 degrees....thermostat housing 139/140.....then it dawned on me that the barrel temp had increased to 133...DUH ! have fresh water trickling to keep barrel full. Increased the RPM's to 900.....still monitoring closely guys..... Fish still not biting !

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