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F60 2006 slight prop movement up and down

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  • #31
    Looks like a very complete set! You should be "good to go".
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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    • #32
      Well, received the parts, but I'm starting to think this will be waste of time
      When I grab the new large bearing that has the gear pressed in I can fee that it's not tight, it has about same movement as my prop now.
      Can't test the needle bearing same way since it's way too fine and doesn't have inside race.


      So, after removing the prop there is about 1/2' of the shaft exposed. I took the small bearing and when I slide it over the shaft there is exactly the same play I have there now.
      Starting to be 90% convinced that this is normal.

      Also asked Bigtime57 who owns the same motor if he wouldn't mind to check his if he can feel the same play in this thread
      http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...i-miss-stutter
      Attached Files
      Last edited by lifeisfun; 2 weeks ago.

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      • #33
        You don't know what the shaft looks like where the bearing actually goes??? There may well be a machined step.
        Does Bigtime57 have the same play in the shaft?

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        • #34
          Originally posted by zenoahphobic View Post
          You don't know what the shaft looks like where the bearing actually goes??? There may well be a machined step.
          Does Bigtime57 have the same play in the shaft?
          It would be crazy coincidence to be exactly the same play I think.
          I asked but he did not reply yet

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          • #35
            I believe I mentioned that would be a good thing to do at the 1st of all this.

            but then I think the needle bearings would be the one to control that slop

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            • #36
              Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
              I believe I mentioned that would be a good thing to do at the 1st of all this.

              but then I think the needle bearings would be the one to control that slop
              Yes, you did suggest that, I hope the other owner will chime in.
              As I said before, you can't see the movement, but when you grab the shaft you can feel/hear the slight knock, knock.

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              • #37
                Also while reading about this found this post on another forum
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...67#post2779367

                I would expect very little play at the rear needle bearing itself since the shaft and bearing are sized for close running fit. However, there is enough clearance so that the shaft can rock a little in the bearing. Since the rear of the shaft is about as far away from the bearing as the front bearing is, it will show the slop in the front assembly even if the rear bearing is good.

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                • #38
                  And one more

                  The forward gear tapered roller bearing is only held into the outer race by the pinion and thrust loads on it during forward operation. During neutral and reverse there is always a bit of slop in it which would also show up at the prop end. To check prop shaft side to side end play you MUST pre-load it (push in the prop shaft hard).

                  https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...00#post3060500

                  When I push in there is no more play

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                  • #39
                    OK, back at it, decided to try to replace the bearings since the other F60 owner reported no prop play and I already got all parts.
                    Took it all a part without any problems, but now I have question how to press the main bearing in.
                    The bearing is one piece and the race is not separated.
                    Also the new bearing is different then the old but still same Yamaha part.
                    Please advice on proper procedure

                    Thanks!
                    Last edited by lifeisfun; 1 week ago.

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                    • #40
                      New bearing

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                      • #41
                        How tight was the old bearing coming off?

                        If it wasn't pressed on (with a press-IE, super tight) , you should be able to freeze the gear part of it (to slightly shrink the ID) and slip the new bearing back over it.

                        Obviously, you don't want to hammer the OUTSIDE edge of the NEW bearing, just the inner.

                        Also, if you Dremel out the inside of the old bearing (opening up the ID), so it slips over the bearing surface, you can use that old bearing INNER PART, to use in-between and hammer the new one bearing..
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                          How tight was the old bearing coming off?

                          If it wasn't pressed on (with a press-IE, super tight) , you should be able to freeze the gear part of it (to slightly shrink the ID) and slip the new bearing back over it.

                          Obviously, you don't want to hammer the OUTSIDE edge of the NEW bearing, just the inner.

                          Also, if you Dremel out the inside of the old bearing (opening up the ID), so it slips over the bearing surface, you can use that old bearing INNER PART, to use in-between and hammer the new one bearing..
                          Ha! That is great idea
                          Thanks!

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                          • #43
                            So, all done, sadly it didn't do a thing, I guess I'm too sensitive
                            There is exactly the same play as before, perhaps tad less.
                            Oh well, I can sleep well now

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