Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need To Fill Corroded Block-to-Head Mating Surfaces on 97 Yam 150 2-stroke

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Checked put your previous re-build link, great job! You located in Cape Coral too?

    I come out of Tarpon Point..


    BTW, Deal Steel at Hanson and Evans has a great machine shop that can do aluminum welding very reasonable...
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

    Comment


    • #17
      That's an impressive log of your work on your motor 13 years ago.

      You obviously did alright as it did last all this time.

      Probably not relevant to comment on that work, but looking at those heads and jackets then, if you don't mind me saying so, they weren't in the best of shape then and one can see why they look like they do today, and considering 13 years has past, in a way the rate of deterioration is probably normal, what would be expected.

      It was also interesting how you attributed water pressure cleaning to the subsequent missing chunk of aluminium you referred to.

      I don't know the paint you referred to, but because it has rust in its name I assume it is intended for iron or steel. Rust dissolvers and inhibitors contain chemicals that attack aluminium. Now you probably agree it may have been a bad choice, but I would not worry too much as that small coating would not have caused much damage (if indeed it did contain rust inhibitor ), it probably just didn't provide the protection you sought.

      Goodluck with this repair I'm sure you will again do a good job.

      Comment


      • #18
        Thanks Zenoahphobic. I was super meticulous not having ever worked on any engine block before back in 2006. I was grateful that year to a gentleman handled "Rodbolt" on one of the forums. He was instrumental in my making of decisions such as he told me absolutely positively get a replacement crankshaft as the journals have to be shiny and not blemished at all like mine were.

        Townsends, yeah CC! I am near the Yacht club off El Dorado East. Small world!!! We are kind of one of the boating capitals of the country though! Thank you for that tip about Deal Steel. I'll call them. Yesterday I called Superior Marine Salvage (south of Alico) where I got my parts from in 2006, and they will sell me heads, clean up the water passages / waterjackets, and resurface them for about $100 each. I think once I get this block material filled in I'll proceed in that direction. Sill might re-use my current starboard head once cleaned up. And I found out my old marine block welder / mechanic Greg H. is no longer in the business. He did good for me back in 2006.
        EDIT: I can't seem to find a Deal Steel at Hanson & Evans.
        Last edited by BoatGuy3450; 06-13-2019, 02:00 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          Here ya go: http://www.bobdeansupply.com/index-2.html

          The machine shop is towards the rear (south end of the complex).

          They welded up a cracked (badly) Suzuki LU (both sides about 5" long) years ago. Still going strong years later, (and that was $75.00!!)

          There's not much they can't do...
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

          Comment


          • #20
            Hey All,
            I just wanted to post an update. The repair is still in progress, though I've been dragging my feet all summer. It has been extremely hot all summer here in SW FL so I've not done much until recent. The heat has lifted and after having multiple conversations with friends related to fishing & boating, I decided to get back on the repair.

            I decided to go with JB Weld Marine Weld Epoxy 8272 UPC 043425082725. I cleaned out the areas on the block real well using a rotary tool with various attachments such as wirewheel and small grinder wheels. Probably the most useful tool I used was a small flat screwdriver (the size you'd use to repair eye glasses). I used this to dig out divots. I discovered several soft spots that collapsed, and I further dug them out. One area of the block was very eaten away, and I dug out a lot of material. Luckily no areas penetrated all the way through the block.

            I purchased 2 used heads which came with water jackets & thermostat housings & associated hardware. They were in pretty darn good shape. The dealer charged $75 each head assembly plus $25 each to cleanup and resurface which seemed very reasonable.

            Today I thought I might get it back together but I am not quite there yet:
            -I coated the head mating surfaces with Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound UPC 686226205391 (I've used before and believe in it) and with new gaskets, assembled the jackets & thermo housings to the heads, properly torquing the bolts to spec (I previously cleaned all threads and applied PTFE Enriched Pipe Thread Sealant UPC 021449236317 which I've used successfully in the past). This time, unlike when I completely rebuilt the motor in 2006, I did NOT spray Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer on the water-exposed surfaces of the heads, water jackets & thermo housings. The surfaces looked pretty clean, and I am not sure the application of this 13 years ago made any difference or not. I am somewhat second guessing myself with this decision but it is what it is and I am not taking it apart again just to apply rusty metal primer.

            -I used a footlong flat file and filed down the epoxied mating surface areas on the block. I have become quite optimistic about using a flat file to even the surface out. After using the file I noticed some low areas (due to discoloration) and a couple more divots that needed filling, so I applied more epoxy.

            I'll probably get back on it next week!

            Comment

            Working...
            X