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2001 200 HPDI precision oil blend

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  • 2001 200 HPDI precision oil blend

    I have searched threads for this and found Rodbolt17's reply to test. "a quick test is to drain the engine tank via the water trap.
    make sure the remote tank is at least 1/2 full.
    turn the key to on.
    tach should blink all three bars,audible will come on and the transfer pump will run for 180 seconds and should refill the engine tank before it times out."
    The manual switch on the engine fills the tank. The pump does NOT run after draining the engine tank, the alarm does sound and because the gauges have faded so badly, I can't see if the bars are flashing but I assume they are since the gauges do work and can be read in the right light. No oil is pumped.
    The screen has not been replaced but does not seem to impair things. The rubber top for the sensor on the tank has cracks in the rubber, I've no idea if this means anything. The filter on the remote tank was replaced a short time ago.
    So where do I go from here?
    Last edited by mist1188; 07-26-2014, 09:20 AM.

  • #2
    always post a full model #, I am sure you have read that on other posts if you have been reading other threads.

    If the oil module sees or thinks the remote tank does not have much oil in it , auto refill does not happen.but manual switch will

    Time to get a good meter and start trouble shooting and maybe replace your gauge if you can not see what it is telling you

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    • #3
      fairly simple.
      with the alarm sounding simply back probe the oil tank connector blue and brown leads at the oil pump bullet connectors.
      you should read about 11V.
      pump will drop a volt or two.
      if you don't get it, hit the manual switch.
      if you still have less than 11v or so, check the pump,check brown to engine ground with the pump trying to run.
      this will tell you quickly if its a 12v supply, pump or pump ground path issue.
      its a stupidly simple system but several things have to happen at the same time.

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      • #4
        I'll get to it as quickly as I can. Thanks for such a prompt reply from both.
        Sorry about the model number, I've been looking at threads from all different models...
        Mine is a 2001 Z200TXRZ. I have a tester and have been looking for gauges. That barely readable keeps me going... LOL
        Thanks again, I'll be back with you.

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        • #5
          Finally back from the Bahamas, I've had a chance to run the check you recommended. I hope you're still listening. LOL
          While my batteries are not in top shape after my long absence, they did show a low voltage reading with the alarm sounding and a normal reading with the manual switch engaged. About 4v with the alarm and around 9.5v with the manual switch. I've put the charger on in case you need a better reading but it seems like the test did show something as is.
          Please let me know what you think.
          BTW, not exactly sure where the ground is you want me to check. Just saying...
          Thanks.
          Steve

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          • #6
            first is to have fully charged operational batteries.
            then test it.

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            • #7
              Here's what was found with the help of a pro...
              The wire between the engine and the reserve tank was so badly degraded, the ONLY contact that was working was the one for the manual switch on the motor. Both the sensor in the tank and the reserve tank then needed to be replaced. All 3 parts were swapped out with working parts to accomplish this. Yes, I know that's cheating because most don't have these parts but... we did. Back in action. Thanks for your help.
              Steve

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              • #8
                find a better pro.
                there are NO wires between the tanks.
                or keep chunking parts till something works.

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                • #9
                  Perhaps I misstated... The wire harness between the motor and the external reservoir which does connect to the sensor on the tank mounted on the engine. Those wires...

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                  • #10
                    while it may be possible, do you realize its the same two wires,one brown one blue, that operate the pump in either automatic or manual mode.

                    lose the black or the black red and you get a yellow lamp or center bar flashing and NO automatic transfer but manual will still work.

                    there is a splice in the engine harness where the black/red changes to green/black and green or green white. if that splice fails the tach can see the SWB closed signal yet the ECU sees it as open and inhibits automatic transfer.

                    easy to see on the laptop.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by mist1188 View Post
                      Perhaps I misstated... The wire harness between the motor and the external reservoir which does connect to the sensor on the tank mounted on the engine. Those wires...
                      Nope. You were crystal clear.

                      The remote tank is located is some/most cases in a nasty environment. Tank holders corrode away into nothing. Yamaha uses non-tinned wires and in a dark, warm and humid environment they are subject to becoming damaged. On a 14 year old motor that is used in the briney blue, it is almost a near certainty.

                      Any of the four wires in the oil harness becoming compromised can cause the oil pump to not run. No power to the pump on the yellow wire, the pump won't run. No ground to the pump on the blue wire, the pump won't run. No ground to the sensor on the black wire, the ECU/CDI won't tell the pump to run. No ground to the ECU/CDI on the black/red wire, the ECU/CDI won't tell the pump to run.

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                      • #12
                        There were many things telling the pump not to run. LOL Only the manual switch would work until... that broke. LOL The last part of the system is the pump itself which looks terrible but still works. Luckily, not a hard fix.
                        The new gauges are in so we can now read what's going on, the fuel tank has been flushed and cleaned... I can't tell you the problems ethanol can cause... you already know, I'm sure...
                        Now, if Yamaha would just put a volume control on that alarm of theirs... ))
                        Thanks, I'll be back I'm sure.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mist1188 View Post
                          Now, if Yamaha would just put a volume control on that alarm of theirs... ))
                          Thanks, I'll be back I'm sure.
                          What,
                          is it not loud enough for you to hear?
                          Or is it going off so much you get tired of listening to it and want to turn it down?

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                          • #14
                            simply cut the pink wire.
                            purple on the merc.
                            a cousin of mine used to get false alarms on his 200 merc.
                            he cut the purple wire.
                            one day the alarm was for real, smoked the powerhead.

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                            • #15
                              Oh, there's no problem hearing it. LOL After a mile or 2 of reduced power, turning it down would be nice. LOL
                              But while we're on the subject of alarms, I was very close to blowing my motor because of water in the oil. This was in the remote tank. And as far as I know there is no alarm for that. The small tank on the engine does have a trap for it but the remote tank?
                              Think I'll be re-rigging this tank in a drier spot. ))

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