Buy Yamaha Outboard Parts

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yamaha 60hp 2 stroke lower unit

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Yamaha 60hp 2 stroke lower unit

    is this motor ok to run like this?

  • #2
    pics may be better that words, but I have no idea what I am suppose to be looking for.

    I never liked guessing what someone was talking about

    Comment


    • #3
      What is that device just aft of the propeller?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post
        What is that device just aft of the propeller?
        muffs....on the wrong way around.

        Comment


        • #5
          Looks like someone backed up into something hard!! Trim tab is gone. As long as the gear case is water tight I can't see why not.

          Did the prop shaft get bent in the mishap!!?

          Dont put her in gear with muffs on that way.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the reply, sorry for not explaining very well. The trim tab anode is missing and a small piece of the foot is broken off as well in the same area the tab is missing. I just picked up this boat and brought it home. Little bit a project but great deal. Does appear they hit something as the prop is chewed up and bent as well. How can I tell if the shaft is broken? I am working on pulling it apart to replace seal as it is leaking and the oil is bad. Motor runs great.

            Comment


            • #7
              Duplicate message
              Last edited by FabricGATOR; 1 week ago.
              If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Scottstubbs00 View Post
                Thanks for the reply, sorry for not explaining very well. The trim tab anode is missing and a small piece of the foot is broken off as well in the same area the tab is missing. I just picked up this boat and brought it home. Little bit a project but great deal. Does appear they hit something as the prop is chewed up and bent as well. How can I tell if the shaft is broken? I am working on pulling it apart to replace seal as it is leaking and the oil is bad. Motor runs great.
                You'll know if the shaft is bad the first time you go water skiing...
                If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Scottstubbs00 View Post
                  is this motor ok to run like this?
                  I'd watch how much drag this creates and how much water is forced up the cowling. I think the first drive will tell you.
                  At the very least I would weld enough aluminium back to attach a new anode. It also stops the engine trying to turn the boat straight ahead.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by zenoahphobic View Post

                    I'd watch how much drag this creates and how much water is forced up the cowling. I think the first drive will tell you.
                    At the very least I would weld enough aluminum back to attach a new anode. It also stops the engine trying to turn the boat straight ahead.
                    The anode, threaded hole is higher up in the lower unit and should be fine/there, but SHOULD be installed (as you noted, to neutralize steering torque to one side) as it's missing (at least in that picture).

                    I think I'd make and weld up a piece to replace it as well. A good machine / welding shop should be able to do it half-ways reasonable-Especially with the LU off.

                    Re the prop shaft.
                    W/O the proper measuring tools, you can get a good idea if the shaft is bent (and prop) by setting up a stiff wire (clamped to something), SUPER CLOSE to the center of the prop shaft(within say .005"). A coat hanger clamped to something would work fine. Place it close to the machined center and slowly (by hand), spin the prop. If the shaft doesn't wobble, you should be good.

                    You can also check the prop setting up your wire the same way. Again, turn the prop and check for different gaps for each blade..


                    Might want to check the inner prop hub, that that's ok too...



                    Depending on how much of the skeg is gone, you can easily add a Skeg Gard (highly recommended):

                    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 1 week ago.
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Scottstubbs00 View Post
                      Thanks for the reply, sorry for not explaining very well. The trim tab anode is missing and a small piece of the foot is broken off as well in the same area the tab is missing. I just picked up this boat and brought it home. Little bit a project but great deal. Does appear they hit something as the prop is chewed up and bent as well. How can I tell if the shaft is broken? I am working on pulling it apart to replace seal as it is leaking and the oil is bad. Motor runs great.
                      probably got something between prop and lower unit to break it like that, but the prop hub should have slipped before doing that kind of damage.

                      as said look up inside to see it the threaded hole is still there to mount the anode, if it is gone and you cannot mount the anode properly I would look for another lower unit.


                      also turning prop by hand and watching the clearance between the prop and the housing will show if the shaft is bent.
                      or take prop off and just watch the shaft.
                      if the oil is ruining out by the prop shaft there is a very good chance the shaft and/or housing is damaged

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hole is still there for the bolt to mount the tab on. Though there will be a small gap after installing allowing some water to get back there. Not sure if thatís ok or not. Shaft appears to be straight. Prop is destroyed. Going to be pulling apart the lower unit to replace seals, impeller etc. any recommendations on what type of oil or any other pointers along the way would be helpful. Thanks!

                        Comment


                        • #13

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Actually, once the anode is back in there, that hole is going to get much smaller..

                            Re re-sealing the lower, just go by the manual and pressure (or vacuum) test once done (no oil in the unit) before installing back on the engine.


                            Someone else needs to chime in. Does his engine require putting in REVERSE GEAR for removal, or just NEUTRAL like most..
                            Scott
                            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              being we have no idea what 60 hp Yamaha this is we cannot even look up a parts breakdown to look.

                              newer ones would be twist to shift, not sure about old ones.

                              the push/pull were the only ones that used the long not to disconnect shift linkage.

                              I would drain and pressure test to see what all was leaking before taking apart
                              Last edited by 99yam40; 1 week ago.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X