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  • Submerged F60

    My cousins flats boat spontaneously sprang a thru hull leak while tied up to his dock....saltwater. Boat partially sank, tie offs keeping it from completely going under. Engine was submerged for no more than 12-18hrs. Bailed, trailered, and delivered to Yam mechanic. Cylinders full of water. Mechanic cleared the powerhead of water, dried it out, started and ran for some time. Don't know the model...I'd say '06 with low hours.

    Question....since saltwater infiltrated powerhead entirely, despite it's now running, will this have a negative long term effect? Better to rid of it and cut the loss now before failure?
    Jason
    1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

  • #2
    electric wires, components, connections could be a problem just like cars that go under.
    Trying to flush all salt water out of everywhere it can get is not a simple/easy job even in the mechanical parts

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    • #3
      Did the mechanic rinse EVERYWHERE with fresh water is the key.. (under the flywheel, exterior, etc)

      Most of the electrical components are water proof. Wiring, as noted above can be an issue. Might want to pull the harness and soak in fresh water, then dry thoroughly.

      All electrical CONNECTORS should be opened, cleaned and dielectric grease applied.

      Soaking the powerhead with a really good lubricant PROTECTIVE SPRAY is a MUST in any event (like right now).



      *My mower, while running at 3,600 RPMs, (back about 1998), rolled down hill and INTO my salt water canal (about 6' deep where it stopped).

      Once removed, hosed it down a bunch with fresh water, drained the carb, (forgot if water got into the cylinder), etc. Had it running an hour later and finished cutting the yard.
      Ran it for another approx. 13 years, no issues.

      Obviously not as involved as your engine but it's not the same as a car. Car's mostly DON'T have parts made for the salt water environment as OB engines do..
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150

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      • #4
        Does he have insurance on his rig? If so, I wonder if his policy would cover any issues down the road that may appear due to the sinking. I wouldn’t feel comfortable selling it to someone else.

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        • #5
          Had a few, unfortunately, over the years that got dunked in salt water. Sounds like the mechanic got the internals going. Hopefully it wasn't sitting for too long, out of the water, until you got it to the mechanic. Often, it's better to leave it in, than sitting in the air after being dunked. Next step is removing all electrical connections, rinsing, protecting, reinstalling. Just take your time and do it systematically. The one thing that I have never come across is electronic computers being dunked... but they "should" be sealed so all you have to worry about is the connectors.

          I'd say spend some time and go over it - chances are better than not that it will be just fine. Besides, trying to sell an engine that was recently dunked (assuming you'd be honest about it) is going to be tough and you likely won't get much for it.

          Oh... I used lot's of WD40, too. WD40 get's almost as widely (over) recommended and (over) used as 3M 5200 - usually for the wrong applications. But this is a good application for WD40.
          Last edited by DennisG01; 02-02-2019, 04:18 PM.
          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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          • #6
            did the starter get disassembled BEFORE hitting it with 300 or so amps?

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            • #7
              Appreciate all the responses.

              Pstephens....He's quite wealthy so I doubt its insured.

              Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
              did the starter get disassembled BEFORE hitting it with 300 or so amps?
              I don't know....why do you ask or what happens if it wasn't disassembled??
              Jason
              1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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              • #8
                electric motor that is not water proof probably got water in it salt water does not go well inside all of that open electrical stuff.
                even if that water evaporates out the salt stays behind

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Holicori
                  I don't really agree with the WD-40 idea.

                  Yes it is water dispersal. So it could help get rid of some of the water.
                  That's exactly the purpose of it and was my point.

                  Be careful with dielectric - too much is not good since it's an insulator. The "proper" use of it is actually to apply it AFTER making the electrical connection. Although a very thin film in between has never seemed to cause any issues. Tef-Gel, by the way, is excellent stuff - kinda like dielectric on steroids.
                  2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                  1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Holicori
                    Yeah, but you didn't say anything about protecting it afterwards.

                    Don't give advice half-assed. Just simply spraying it with WD-40 and leaving it would be worse than not doing it at all.
                    Interesting. Didn't know we were going to be attacking someone so quickly for offering advice that can help someone - especially since I've been down this road before. I also didn't say "don't protect" it - I just didn't specifically mention TO protect it afterwards. I think we need to put a little trust in the OP that he can figure some of these things out for himself - I'm sure he can do that. Jason has been around this forum long enough and I've seen enough of his posts to know that he's smart enough to figure some of this out on his own.

                    Should I also have mentioned to him to take the cap off the WD40 before spraying it? Or by not mentioning that, did I not give "full" advice?


                    "Just simply spraying it with WD-40 and leaving it would be worse than not doing it at all" Can you explain how this is "worse"? Or were you exaggerating for effect - which is not helpful... and is still an incorrect statement.
                    Last edited by DennisG01; 02-04-2019, 12:55 PM.
                    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jason, how are you making out?
                      2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                      1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
                        Jason, how are you making out?
                        All good over here boss...working like a dog combined with inconsistent weather has kept my boat outtings to infrequent, at best.
                        Jason
                        1998 S115TLRW + 1976 Aquasport 170

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