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2007 f115tlr drive shaft

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  • #31
    I remove them all the time

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    • #32
      and when they bring me a case that is so buggered you cannot see the key anymore?
      heat the key area until it glows, the key will glow a different color red than the shaft.
      that way you know where to whack it.

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      • #33
        Never had to use heat, very seldom work on salty dogs.

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        • #34
          its not salt,although I did heat out 3 headbolts on the new kids 9.9.
          the key gets sheared,typicaly by a neighbor, using a sharp chisel.
          by the time I get it you cannot tell where the key is.
          that is when I make it glow.

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          • #35
            everyone likes fire!

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            • #36
              yep,and at 6' and 138lbs I am a special scarecrow.
              I even got to burn out the trim sender and limit screws from an alpha genII today.
              \

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              • #37
                alright gents finally got home, and getting to work on the lower unit.... this is what it really looks like, it appears my lower seal is busted as well??? there was trace amounts of water inside the impeller housing very little but still water.... so now what? should I consider purchasing a new lower unit or is it still cheaper to repair this even wit the shaft this bad?
                Attached Files

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                • #38
                  that's - "impressive"...



                  I imagine you could "paste" a new key in there, with some JB Weld to fill up the void.

                  What do you mean by "water in the impeller housing"?
                  That entire area runs submerged - water is supposed to be everywhere -
                  except inside the gearcase, where the oil is.

                  I can't see if the 'garter spring" is missing on the shaft seal.
                  But replacing those seals is easy.

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                  • #39
                    Make a new key notch on the other side? Worth a shot.

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                    • #40
                      That shaft, new, is $300 alone, not installed...

                      Does the impeller fit snuggly on the shaft or sloppy (that shaft, overall, is awfully beat up). If it's sloppy, your wasting your time.

                      If the impeller fits snug, I'd either cut a new slot (as Pat mentioned), or weld just the edges of the current "slot" and grind down with a Dremel just until the key way fits... That key fits VERY, VERY snug. Likely why the last guy in there buggered it up so bad...

                      Even brazing the sides of the key way hole would work and be easier to machine (Dremel) back rectangular.
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                      • #41
                        I'd be thinking a new drive shaft installed by a real Yamaha Technician.....new seals on lower unit....good to go!

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                        • #42
                          Replace the shaft by a yamaha tech, for shimming reasons.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by robert graham View Post
                            I'd be thinking a new drive shaft installed by a real Yamaha Technician....
                            Originally posted by walleye1 View Post
                            Replace the shaft by a yamaha tech,

                            ehhh - are we bringing men back from the dark side of the moon?

                            or just pumping seawater into a 12 yr old 115 hp outboard.

                            The impeller needs to turn with the shaft - so a key is needed to drive it;

                            beyond that - what's the benefit of spending any money?

                            Grease the ID of the impeller -
                            pack that hole with epoxy filler to hold the key in place -
                            slide the impeller down to hold in it all in place until it sets -
                            done.





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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                              That shaft, new, is $300 alone, not installed...

                              Does the impeller fit snuggly on the shaft or sloppy (that shaft, overall, is awfully beat up). If it's sloppy, your wasting your time.

                              If the impeller fits snug, I'd either cut a new slot (as Pat mentioned), or weld just the edges of the current "slot" and grind down with a Dremel just until the key way fits... That key fits VERY, VERY snug. Likely why the last guy in there buggered it up so bad...

                              Even brazing the sides of the key way hole would work and be easier to machine (Dremel) back rectangular.
                              There is a lot of slop with they key

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                              • #45
                                On
                                Originally posted by fairdeal View Post




                                ehhh - are we bringing men back from the dark side of the moon?

                                or just pumping seawater into a 12 yr old 115 hp outboard.

                                The impeller needs to turn with the shaft - so a key is needed to drive it;

                                beyond that - what's the benefit of spending any money?

                                Grease the ID of the impeller -
                                pack that hole with epoxy filler to hold the key in place -
                                slide the impeller down to hold in it all in place until it sets -
                                done.




                                this is how it was installed previously it fit snug against the impeller

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