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Trim/Tilt Issues. Racking brain but need help

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  • Trim/Tilt Issues. Racking brain but need help

    2005 90TLRD. The high speed single tilt ram was working ok, but the low speed 2 piston trim system was very slow and wouldn't retract all the way. I tried adding fluid and just began having tons of issues. It seems like there is air under the 2 pistons.

    For instance if I have the motor forced down to within 1/2" of all the way, crack the manual valve/screw on the side, the 2 trim pistons will push the motor up 2-3". I then manually lifted the motor all the way and set it on the service locks. Leave the manual valve open and fill the reservoir. Put the drain back on, then manually lower the motor. Every goes fine until I hit the slow speed 2 trim pistons. It just won't go down. I push it down as far as I can and close the manual trim screw. Then I try to cycle the trim/tilt electrically and it won't up to the high speed ram and won't retract.

    I don't have the special wrench for removing the pistons but is that what I need to do? I've tried several different methods for filling it and nothing has helped besides make a HUGE mess of fluid everywhere from opening the apparently pressured fill plug.

    Update: Currently where I'm at is that I can use the tilt/trim to trim/tilt all the way up. Then I use the manual screw but the motor will only lower to the 2 trim pistons. Once it hits the 2 pistons.... it's SOLID. As in I can hang off the motor and it won't budge.
    thanks
    Last edited by mitch184; 01-12-2019, 07:34 PM.

  • #2
    All the pistons have to be extended and the engine on the manual service lock to add fluid (all the way up).

    It should self bleed raising and lowering it ELECTRICALLY...

    Top off as necessary exactly as above. If there's still issues, there's a problem inside the unit..
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150

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    • #3
      Iíve only been adding fluid with the rams fully extended. Iíve tried both with the manual screw open and closed.

      i believe the correct way is to close the manual screw, hit the tilt up button and add fluid till it binds. Then I let whatever extra is there overflow. Put the fill plug in. Open the manual screw and manually lower the motor. Everything is fine until it hits the trim pistons. Once it hits those nothing budges. At that point I close the manual screw again, then power trim down. It will eventually trim all the way but it takes my help and takes minutes.

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      • #4
        I don't know if using the manual release screw is the proper way to bleed (or "also" works), or not. The only way I've ever done it is powering up and powering down and that has always worked. It often takes many cycles of this, though. If I remember correctly, I also left the fill plug out the whole time so the air can escape.

        Edit: If bleeding doesn't work, you may have to disassemble everything and flush it out as there could be debris caught somewhere.
        Last edited by DennisG01; 01-14-2019, 01:12 PM.
        2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
        1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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        • #5
          You can not power it down with the fill cap off without having a big mess.
          Trim up loosen fill cap let air out, tighten cap open release valve till engine
          is all the way down tighten valve, trim up all the way open cap let air out.
          Trim fluid needs to be added when engine is all the way up and fluid
          level with the bottom of the fill opening.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by walleye1 View Post
            You can not power it down with the fill cap off without having a big mess.
            It's been a while, I'm sure you're right and that's what I did. I definitely powered up and down as the release screw was stuck and I couldn't open it. I do know it took quite a few times to get all the air out.
            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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            • #7
              Walleye, you are correct. It will make a big mess... I found out.

              so trim up, leave manual screw as is, vent/add fluid, reinstall fill cap. Turn manual screw to lower motor. Close manual screw. Then repeat.

              when the motor is being manually lowered, should it lower ALL the way or just down until it hits the trim rams? Mine will only lower till it hits the trim rams.

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              • #8
                Should go all the way, open the valve more till it goes all the way.

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                • #9
                  I turn the manual screw clockwise all the way... kind of odd to go clockwise to open the valve.... and thereís no way the trim rams will retract. Rock solid.

                  so Iím guessing something else is going on.

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                  • #10
                    Try doing the power up/power down method and see if it works better for you.

                    CW to open? I can't speak for your engine, but it's always CCW to open - at least on my engine and every other engine I've ever done this on. Are you sure that's correct? If not, either you're posting from the Southern Hemisphere or the manual screw is somehow messed up.

                    You mentioned "rock solid", but above you said the trim rams do go down? Do they go down normally when under power?
                    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                    • #11
                      Some yamahas are backwards

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                      • #12
                        Clockwise definitely lets me manually move the motor.

                        once it hits the trim rams manually, if I close the manual screw and power trim down, it struggles but sometimes will go all the way down with help. You can hear fluid cavitation and bubbling/gurgling.

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                        • #13
                          I would loosen (not remove)the trim and tilt caps with a proper spanner wrench while it is still attached to boat. Then remove the entire unit and bench test a little more with a battery. Ultimately, I fear it is time to take the assembly to a good mechanic that is familiar with the internals.

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                          • #14
                            CCW vs CW... Well, that's just strange. Why do that, you know? I guess that whole "standardaization" thing is lost on Yamaha's.

                            If you're hearing all that gurgling, it's definitely not bled well enough. Maybe you just didn't bleed it properly or well enough. I'd give that a go again.
                            2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
                            1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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                            • #15
                              Maybe these pictures will help you?

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