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I don’t care how often you flush

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  • I don’t care how often you flush

    Your outboard motor after running in saltwater. Certain models anyway. My F150 and Fairdeal’s 3.3 V6 are going to collect mineral deposits. They will eventually collect deposits and bridge the gap between the bronze structure of thermostat and the aluminum of the bore. And create pits. I have been flushing the past 6 months running the motor in driveway for 10-15 minutes. Stat opens every time as there is hot water pouring from vent in lower unit. I just ran the motor for 20 minutes and found plenty on one side of thermostat.

    My my opinion is the bore needs to be inspected every two months (for my use).

    I hope all of you have finished the leftover turkey by now. Gets a little funky after a few days.

  • #2
    Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
    I hope all of you have finished the leftover turkey by now. Gets a little funky after a few days.
    I have one nice large leg left for tomorrow!!!!!!
    Dennis
    Keep life simple, eat, sleep, fish, repeat!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
      Your outboard motor after running in saltwater. Certain models anyway. My F150 and Fairdeal’s 3.3 V6 are going to collect mineral deposits. They will eventually collect deposits and bridge the gap between the bronze structure of thermostat and the aluminum of the bore. And create pits. I have been flushing the past 6 months running the motor in driveway for 10-15 minutes. Stat opens every time as there is hot water pouring from vent in lower unit. I just ran the motor for 20 minutes and found plenty on one side of thermostat.

      My my opinion is the bore needs to be inspected every two months (for my use).

      I hope all of you have finished the leftover turkey by now. Gets a little funky after a few days.
      has your turkey attacked you already?
      mind explaining where the hot water vent is on the lower unit,
      I did not know there was a place down there that got hot water when the stat opened.
      and what did you find plenty of

      oh yea, as far as turkey I just smoked a 11 lb one today,so I have plenty to eat and will freeze some also

      from the title, I thought you had some plumbing problems with all of that food you ate
      Last edited by 99yam40; 11-24-2018, 09:36 PM.

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      • #4
        [QUOTE=99yam40;n212010]

        has your turkey attacked you already?
        mind explaining where the hot water vent is on the lower unit,
        I did not know there was a place down there that got hot water when the stat opened.

        This slotted vent area on lower.. some of my comments ended up attached to the pic. Strange. Anyhow....water from this “vent” is hot at times. Assuming when stat is open and motor has warmed up. When tap water is cold (now), the temp will fluctuate between hot and cold. Stays warm during the summer when tap water is 85 degrees. Found plenty of deposits on one side of thermostat.
        Last edited by pstephens46; 11-24-2018, 11:57 PM. Reason: Spelling.....watching football

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        • #5
          I thought that area by your hand is where water comes out after cooling the exhaust stack?

          Also, there was some conversation about opening up the thermostat vent hole some to allow water in there..
          Scott
          1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
            I thought that area by your hand is where water comes out after cooling the exhaust stack?

            Also, there was some conversation about opening up the thermostat vent hole some to allow water in there..
            Probably is water that is cooling the stack. My point is the temp of that water is a pretty good indicator that the motor is warmed up. Still not able to move the minerals that are creating the issue around the thermostat. I wonder how many gallons of water flow past the thermostat as the boat runs 4000 rpm for 45 minutes down the channel? I would think that might flush the crud better than flushing at idle.

            Overall, I think people need to check this area more often than they might assume.
            Last edited by pstephens46; 11-25-2018, 11:57 AM.

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            • #7
              Did you take a picture of the thermostat bore? Didn't you epoxy prime it with zinc chromate last year?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                Did you take a picture of the thermostat bore? Didn't you epoxy prime it with zinc chromate last year?
                I did not use the two part paint. I did use the Alodine primer. I did not take a pic. I probably will repaint in the spring.

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                • #9
                  Interesting topic and one that affects me directly since I don't always have access to fresh water during the winter months.

                  1. Hypothetical and heretical question purely for discussion, What would happen if you just left the T-stats OUT? I understand that someone in Japan decided that the engine ought to run at a pre-determined and optimal temp primarily for maximum efficiency. I assume that those guys are pretty smart and know that their engines are sold around the world. Hence, some guys are running in tropical waters while others are just shy of the arctic circle. IOW, if the engine will run fine in colder waters though a bit less efficiently, is that worth the tradeoff? Not having to pull T stats on two engines buys me a LOT of time to use the boat as opposed to wrenching on it. Getting a slightly higher fuel burn as a result might be worth the tradeoff. Plus, these stats are a pain in the ass to change, as is most everything on this engine....(VST screen, pumps, injectors, etc.)

                  It appears to me that the T-stat effectively becomes a plug when flushing if its crudded-up closed. It also appears to me that they probably often ARE crudded-up closed. They're puny! So, how much flushing is occurring exactly where it seems to be needed the most? Namely, where it attacks the block. Not much unless the T stats are pristine and you've got great psi and flow at the fresh water hose. I don't have either as I am flushing with well water. I am limited to the little water that comes out of the hose.
                  Last edited by oldmako69; 11-25-2018, 11:27 PM.

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                  • #10
                    After clean up, a couple of coats of good chromate primer, I would coat the bore with nice thin layer of polysulfide sealant.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                      After clean up, a couple of coats of good chromate primer, I would coat the bore with nice thin layer of polysulfide sealant.
                      Polysulfide looks to be a caulk? Flexible?
                      Interesting as it may act as an insulator. Negating the battery effect I am getting that is eating the AL.

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                      • #12
                        J/E has s/s thermostats, is it worth it to try to modify one of those to fit?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post

                          Polysulfide looks to be a caulk? Flexible?
                          Interesting as it may act as an insulator. Negating the battery effect I am getting that is eating the AL.
                          T-stat is rubber on metal anyway. So, no insulation/electrolysis issue. Right? Or am I smoking crack?
                          Last edited by oldmako69; 11-25-2018, 11:47 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by oldmako69 View Post

                            T-stat is rubber on metal anyway. So, no insulation/electrolysis issue. Right? Or am I smoking crack?
                            They don't have to be touching each other...just be in close proximity to each other. Take the rubber off the stat (if you could get it to seal somehow) and leave it in there for awhile...metal on metal and see what happens. I think you will have much more corrosion.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by oldmako69 View Post

                              T-stat is rubber on metal anyway. So, no insulation/electrolysis issue. Right? Or am I smoking crack?
                              Deposits build a bridge between metal body of stat to the AL of the block.

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