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driveshaft needle bearing

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  • driveshaft needle bearing

    Hi guys

    Need your support

    I'm changing the bearings of a F100 lower unit that had water intrusion/corrosion including the drive shaft needle bearing

    https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...casing-drive-1

    part # 13

    Put the bearing on place using a old drive shaft that use the same bearing size but then the drive shaft got stucked on the bearing and was very hard to turn over
    Removed the bearing from casing and than is turning freely on the shaft.

    When on place (on the casing) doesnt turn over and the shaft gets stuck
    When out no problem

    What I'm missing or doing wrong

    I belive that is something most of you havent done but I would like "hear" your sugestions

    Rod this ever happened to you?

  • #2
    Do you have the proper tool's to install the RITE bearing? Remember the bearing has to be installed with numbers
    and letters up tord the water pump. You can only install the RITE bearing one time.

    Comment


    • #3
      That bearing has to be set at the proper depth. Tool to do that.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi

        The bearing was placed on the right posicion "letters and numbers upward" and +/- at the same place the revious one was
        I dont think a couple of mm up or down could make that diference
        The bearing is defenitely squezzing the shaft
        The bearing doesnt show any signs of being damaged and turn smoth when is out
        Dont know what tool yamaha use to feat that bearing but the drive shaft doesnt look to be damaging the bearing
        Yesterday talked with a local marine mokanic and he said that this already hapened to him and had to sand the channel where the bearing goes in "not suposed for sure"
        He said the bearing must go in smoothly and defenitely is not the case
        I had to hammer the drive shaft using a considerable punchs to make it go in.
        Also used heat but the problem persists

        Comment


        • #5
          Yamaha makes a stepped tool that pulls the bearing into the case from the bottom.
          use the correct tool and the correct SM procedure and it works well the first time.

          Comment


          • #6
            Mr. Almetelo, do you have the SM for the F100 model? The tool and the dimensions are specified in section 6. If you need data, let me know.

            Comment


            • #7
              What there ANY corrosion in that hole at all ???? If so then you have to clean that out.

              It does not take much to deform the outside case of those needle bearings. If deformed, when put in the bore it will squeeze inwards as you are experiencing. I would venture to say you have that bearing deformed now, by pounding on it.

              Do you have a set of vernier calipers or know someone who does? If so, measure the outside diameter very closely at several spots and compare it to the old one.

              It really needs to be "pulled" into the bore. You can make a puller with some threaded rod, a socket, and some flat washers.


              Comment


              • #8
                The factory tool has a step for a stop at the rite depth, makes a difference.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Right is rite J O
                  Last edited by walleye1; 10-30-2018, 06:03 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    In the south, you might hear mothers tell their kids to “Chill y’all”. We don’t need the regulars fussing here.

                    Walleye built a new shop and NEVER sent any pics. What is up with that?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I guess we hijacked the thread. Assume OP got what he needed.

                      Those metal walls are pretty well insulated I assume?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        and I never saw the ceiling and walls done like that before.
                        usually you see the batts of insulation.
                        what did you cover the ceiling and walls with on the inside?

                        I take it that is an overhead travel hoist

                        nice clean set up

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I did not look close enough I guess.
                          but then I have never seen a heater like that before either.
                          NG or Butane/propane?

                          need some fans to get the heat off of the ceiling

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice looking shop!! Those heaters work great, we have them in our Hanger, but much larger. They radiate the heat down to the floor very well. Also have 6 Big Azz ceiling fans that are 30 foot diameter to help move the air.
                            Get yourself a Carbon Monoxide detector though, we had problems with the system at first and was causing people to get headaches and setting off all the detectors in the airplanes.

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